Voltage drop at the 80m charging cable to my garage

use a big cable you should not have any voltage drop ,
the imiev ? good I 've tried it in monaco at ever festival, it is a real car... just nice , expensive but nice
this car has a fast recharge capability .... provided one get a 380v 3phase supply.
here in france it is easy to get this kind of supply even in a garage, if you get a private parking

It depdends on what size fuse your circuit uses. The Vectrix charger uses constant Wattage drawing about 1750Watt. As the voltage drops, the amperage drawn increases. Here in the US, at 119V, the draw just barely matches the 15A circuit breaker used i.e. it would drwa 14.7A. If the voltage drops by 10%, i.e. to 107V, you will draw 16.3A. Bridging 80m with low voltage drop requires a pretty thick cable. You would need a 10AWG cable to drop 4V at 220V over 80m. Most houshold extension cables are 14AWG which gives you a 10V drop!

YES, by all means, get the bigger cable! Charging the car would result in very noticeable HEATING of your cable, as over 220 watts of power would be lost in the cable resistance. Aside from the possible hazard, this heat represents wasted MONEY, as this power is not reaching your battery, it only heats the cable and surroundings!--Bob

I believe vectrix will work properly with lower voltage, but I'd rather prefer an official announcement from Steve.

From wiki:

The voltage drop (E) occurring in an alternating current circuit is the product of the current (I) and impedance of the circuit (Z). It is expressed by the formula E = IZ, analogous to Ohm's law for direct current circuits. Electrical impedance (Z) is the vector sum of 2- electrical resistance, and the 1- capacitive - inductive reactance.

1- Inductive - capacitive reactance:

Reactance is a circuit element's opposition to an alternating current, caused by the build up of electric or magnetic fields in the element due to the current. In electric transmission, reactance of power lines and transformers is dominant to resistance.

As in depens on the frequency (50Hz) and geometry (coils), you can minimize it by preventing the wire from having a coil-shape (accidentaly happends in half - extended portable extension cords, be careful)

2- The electrical resistance:

A metal consists of a lattice of atoms, each with a shell of electrons. The outer electrons are free to dissociate from their parent atoms and travel through the lattice, creating a 'sea' of electrons, making the metal a conductor. When an electrical potential difference (a voltage) is applied across the metal, the electrons drift from one end of the conductor to the other under the influence of the electric field.
The larger the cross-sectional area of the conductor, the more electrons are available to carry the current, so the lower the resistance. The longer the conductor, the more scattering events occur in each electron's path through the material, so the higher the resistance. Different materials also affect the resistance.

Therefore, it is recommended to avoid accidental wire disposal following coil shape, and to use as short as possible cords with wide section.
Consider disposing a secondary ICL direcly from your home's "electric counter" (usually placed around floor level) in order to short the wire lenght as much as possible. If you are thinking of a 3 phase recharge it would be a nice idea to put 3 phase wires now, it may be expensive but you'll install it once, no need the pay for the same work two times. Some time latter if you want you can have 3-phase supply.

Vectrix manual states, that the recharge requirements are 110V-230V.

Would everything be ok, if my charging voltage would be 210V?

The charger on the VX-1 is switched mode technology and mine uses 13 amperes USA amperes at 117 volt and once in a great while would trip the breaker. So I used a Variac and increased the voltage to VX-1 and as I did the current went down. So the volts times amps were the same even though the volts were 155 volt. But the current was only about 9 or 10 amps. It will be about 14 or 15 hundred watts at initial charge no matter what volts are put in scooter. Most chargers if they say on label 90-250 volt 45 -65 Hz then it will accept AC or DC in at that range.
Try your laptop brick on 100 volt AC or DC and it will still power your laptop. Who knows some one on Visforvoltage Spark 5 or something mention a brick would work on my XM-3000 and wow! it worked on 65 volt pack voltage.
So I wouldn't worry about E drop much till getting in to real long lengths.
Rusty
PS Now I am not too worried about charger failure since I found an 8 Amp charger on this list.

because the cable will be exposed inside the canal/hole and anyone will have access to my cable if he/she wishes

Just an idea: You can install a special fuse that can be activated remotely from your home. The energy will flow efficiently from the counter, the activation will come from your home.
On the other hand, you can prevent anyone from using your electricity by protecting the plug with a keyed metallic box. Your wire inside the parking must be inside a pvc/metallic tube, in order to prevent other people from having acces to it.

Unfortunately, our apartment block doesn't have 3-phase connection, only single phase.

I'm sure you're right, but our apartments only get one phase. I don't want to mess to much with the counter panel, 'cause that means electricity supply company would get involved and that makes to many variables and costs for my taste.

You are dealing with the most challenging issue in relation to electric vehicles: How to recharge them in the city.
Every plug is a galaxy of possible solutions and problems. Choose the one that makes more sense to you.

Some observatins to add to the mix.

When power supplies are routed to different floors, there can be regulations that specifically prohibit such an installation UNLESS the socket is fed from a supply thgat can be isolated FROM THE SAME FLOOR. THis is to ensure that if there is a Health & Safety issue, and (for example) all the power on a certain level needs to be isolated - whether due to accident or required maintenance - those concerned need to be sure that the revevant sources can be turned off. NOT go hunting for people on other floors who MAY have their own feeds that will not be isolated by a floor-wide shut-down.

Secondly, the UK voltages did NOT actually change (despite harmonisation) they re-wrote the spec to allow a greater range within the supply, and whilst we a supposedly (in the UK) at 230v, this can be provided +/- 10%, so we return to out original 240v, and at times of low consumption, say overninght - this can increase to 248-255v. To discover you YOU will actually get requires where you are in the supply chain, and requires to be tested - since voltage drops on cable runs can be easily quantified, the START point cannot.

Andy,
Nice box and like the notch you cut in it so the cord can be plugged in and the box locked. Are you still flying model Heli's? I have been messing with the blade mcx and msr for a few months and just ordered a blade SR.

Take Care,
Louie

Nice charging box! congratulations!
I've been allowed to put a charging plug in my parking square:
http://www.voltforum.cat/voltforum/YaBB.pl?num=1264698991

Do you like it?

Nice neat box!