Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems to be working normally

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jackal
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Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems to be working normally

I acquired an r-20 today and I don't really know much about how it works or circuits in general, although I am mechanically inclined so I can learn. Here is what I know about this particular scooter:

It has been in two accidents...apparently both occured as the driver was stopped and tried to dismount, at which point she inadvertently twisted the throttle and the scooter took off. So these were low speed accidents.

This scooter lived near a bay, so salt water in the air was an issue (in a dry climate now).

It was seized but a mechanic unseized it somehow and now it moves freely.

Now today was my first day with it and these were my observations:

It had a full charged. The headlights (high and low beams) worked, turn signals were OK, horn OK, kill switch OK including the buzzer noise, the circuit breaker turned to the on position ok. However, there was no acceleration. What I mean to say is that it powers on, everything looks good, but it doesn't move under its own power.

What should I look at or where should I begin? Thanks!

marylandbob
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

Check/clean all battery connections, and TEST the batteries to see if they are REALLY at "full charge"! (With a D.C. to D.C. converter to power the lights, it is possible to still have good lights/horn, etc. with a battery that is essentially DEAD as far as motor operation is concerned.) The "60 volt" motor supply uses 5 batteries, rated at 12 volts each, but they should test around 13.5 to 14 volts each, if they are fully charged--total battery pack voltage should be in the 67 to 70 volt range. Many "60 volt to 12 volt" D.C. to D.C. converters will continue to operate normally with input voltages of 45 volts, but the motor should have at least 55 volts to run. (at 55 volts, the batteries are essentially DEAD, and need charging or replacing.) No individual battery should be discharged much lower than 11 volts if good life is expected. --Bob

Robert M. Curry

jackal
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

Thanks for the speedy reply! I checked all of the batteries. Each one reads 12.5v except for one that reads 11.5 volts. Altogether its about 61 or 62 volts.

I've got it pretty well apart now and something peculiar is happening with the fuse wires. By touching it I can hear something clicking on the front of the bike. I don't know what the thing is where the clicking is occuring but I will do my best to describe it. It consists of a small circuitboard with a small black cylinder and two clear small boxes soldered to the board. These small clear boxes have visibly exposed copper wire in them wrapped into coils. Now when the clicking is audible, I can look at these boxes and see a piece of copper physically moving. Just a guess....but could this be some kind of overload protection since the fuse wire is compromised? I tiightened the connectors on the fuse wires but this clicking still occurs, albeit less. The fuse itself wasn't broken but one end has some carbon marks on it...I replaced the fuse and the carbon marks are already on the second fuse.

However, even when there is no clicking, the start up jingle sounds, and the charge meter shows up and all of the lights/horn/etc. works, the scooter still won't go. I have it off of the kickstand as well so that isn't it. Thank you for your reply and I eagerly await any further ideas for a direction to look next.

marylandbob
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

You have BATTERY trouble! That battery at 11.5 volts is bad, and nearly dead! For best results, replace all batteries with a new, matched set. Short-term sucess is likely if you replace only the bad battery. Thos strange objects are RELAYS, and they are likely to shut down the motor because of your bad battery.--Bob

Robert M. Curry

jackal
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

I put a 12volt battery charger on the dead battery and tried to start the scooter while on its center stand. It worked! I took off the charger and drove it around. Strangely, it is still working. I have charged it with the supplied charger a few times now and the scooter runs. However, I have noticed that the meter on the console goes from a full charge to no charge fairly quickly. So I can't thank you enough for pointing me in the direction of looking at the battery.

One thing I am curious about, however. Why did it not work before and then when I put that 12volt charger on it it worked, and subsequently has continued to work...? I am most confused as to how it continues to work even though that one battery is basically dead. What do you think that initial charging accomplished? When I say "12 volt charger" I am referring to the type that would be used to charge a 12v car battery.

I am looking now online to order a replacement battery.

marylandbob
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

If you desire to obtain reliable service, with long range travel, always replace the batteries as a complete "Matched Set"--all the same brand, state of charge, and age. Failure to do so usually results in uneven charging and discharging, with battery failure occurring sooner than normal. If desired, save the best of your old batteries to replace a battery the might fail, but batteries in storage should be stored fully charged, and they sould be recharged about every 3 months, to keep them charged.--Bob

Robert M. Curry

Mik
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

I put a 12volt battery charger on the dead battery and tried to start the scooter while on its center stand. It worked! I took off the charger and drove it around. Strangely, it is still working. I have charged it with the supplied charger a few times now and the scooter runs. However, I have noticed that the meter on the console goes from a full charge to no charge fairly quickly. So I can't thank you enough for pointing me in the direction of looking at the battery.

One thing I am curious about, however. Why did it not work before and then when I put that 12volt charger on it it worked, and subsequently has continued to work...? I am most confused as to how it continues to work even though that one battery is basically dead. What do you think that initial charging accomplished? When I say "12 volt charger" I am referring to the type that would be used to charge a 12v car battery.

I am looking now online to order a replacement battery.

I'm not 100% certain what you did with the 12V charger - but assuming that you charged each individual battery with it, you have BALANCED the battery pack.

Now they are all full, or empty, at about the same time. The stock charger may not be able to achieve this balancing.

You might get away with repeating this balancing treatment every so often. You could just top up the battery that is lower than the others, but do this at the end of charging.

If you charge the weak battery when the others are low, then you could end up overcharging it when you connect the stock charger! That can be very bad.

This information may be used entirely at your own risk.

There is always a way if there is no other way!

jackal
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Re: Need help with an R-20. It won't drive but power seems ...

Well, if I was planning on keeping it I would probably look to replace the set. However, I am not sure if I want to keep it as its low top speed is a problem on my roads.

What I meant was that I just put the two gator clips from my charger onto the dead battery and it started right up. It has continued to work since, even though I have not repeated this.

By the way, what does a used R-20 go for?

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