I just got a brain storm. I sure as all heck don't want to void any warranty implied or not. But .....
Well, a lot of us have to go a full real 15 or twenty miles to work or someplace important. The battery pack of 125 volts is really 102 Cells at .99 to 1.0 volts dead or safely dead to maybe on the order of 1.35 to maybe 1.4 volts under charge. So why not get some 8 AWG flexible wire like "K" class or Instrument wire and connect wires to battery pack and the other end to a set of pins for the Anderson SB-120 Gray.
Now you have a way to measure voltage and power your lawn mower for your yard, USA only for EU has 240 volts right? Now the great part.
All or mostly all inverters are modified sine wave type outputs and produce a voltage and a waveform of 290 volts P-P or in English a 145 volts of a real honest to goodness square wave output. It is called modified sine wave but is still square wave. I charge my table saw with that type of charger even though it is Pb-acid battery pack. It can't over charge it at all. I have been using it that way for well over 7 years now. Ask WS3F.
So with a good hunk of Pb like a Yellow top or Blue top and a 5,000 watt Inverter and a Full Wave rectifier like on eBay IR Brand you will produce major 145 volts not any more than that for VX-1 battery pack. A lot of people posting have questionable chargers or possible charger failure and this will keep it up to 140 to 145 volts but not do a proper charge. A proper charge is controlled current. Good but not fully proper for Ni-CAD, NiMH, and Nickel Iron needs to be charged at a controlled current terminating to a fixed terminal voltage of 1.35 volt. My VX-1 does show 147 volts on the dash. So maybe it will work extremely safe left on also.
So if you want to charge that way, one will have to add a limiting current source id est ~ a fixed resistor or a Lamp of a high wattage and low voltage.
If the pack is fully or near fully charge the inrush current will be low or nearly low to start and you will be riding on inverter power. Now that is how the Prius add-on kit works. But they use 250 volts.
I will finish my voltage measurements later on in July of this year.
I need to get a strip recorder like Mr. Mik is using "down under" for his battery pack testing. I need to know inrush current and switching current but it works great for Lead type battery pack for more than 7 long years and two sets of battery packs 138 volt packs Pb-acid Gel Cell.
Second way is not use inverter and use LiFePO4 125 volt pack 10-20 or so AH. Some one on the web here sent me an IM about this and got me thinking. Just like when I sent Mik an IM about a glitch in his strip recorder he answered in his posting. I just didn't get what actually happened and he explained it to all on V
So if any one has thoughts or questions on this subject I do need to know how it works of course but also need to know "failure" modes too, so keep me informed by e-mail or IM.
Just something to ponder over for now.
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