I have the older 2000 watt sport model of the e-max and my "charge box" (the black box stuck to the top of the first battery) is broken. Does anyone know how to bypass this box? I don't need it, because I have my own method of charging. Or does anyone have one they can sell me?
Thanks,
daryl
Hi Daryl,
the major thing that black box does is switch the main contactors on.
the coil on the contactors are rated to 48v.
the ignition switch switches 48v directly.
in original wiring, the ignition switch turns the dc-dc on/off.
when the dc-dc is running, the 12v relays in the black box turn the coil on the contactors on.
just wire the contactors directly to the ignition switch.
the ignition switch wont last quite as long, but should still run ~10'000km.
Matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
Adding a 30 to 50 ohm 5 watt resistor in the switch-relay circuit makes this circuit easier on the switch. But I found that the DC-DC converter 48V circuit and to a lesser extent, the 48V red-wire logic power to the controller were harder yet on the key switch. These produce a lot of capacitor inrush current when first switched on and arcing at the switch. The key switch on one of my e-maxs failed at about 8000-9000 km or so.
To fix it, I put a CL-40 inrush suppressor on both these circuits, this is the same part that always needed replacing on the old blue-box chargers.
By the way, If you live in the US and have some of the old blue-box chargers, even non-operating ones, I may be interested in them.
Daryl,
I know essentially nothing about fixing the E-max sport, but I do have one that stopped working a few days after I bought it off Craigslist... It was great for those two days! My husband and I also have a NEW E-max 110s that is fabulous. I don't have the time, money, or know-how to fix up the old silver sport version, but I did have the E-max dealer in my city take a look at it. He also has an old E-max sport so he was able to switch out parts and determine that the problem is the controller (which is to my understanding the silver box on the side). This particular scooter only had a few hundred miles on it when we bought it, and the E-max dealer says that with this particular model either the controller goes out early or it lasts awhile.
All this is to say that I have no need for a scooter that won't go! It would be great for spare parts to help you maintain your current e-max if you're intersted. The only other non-working part (that we know of) is the center stand. We are in central Texas, so of course depending on where you are it might not be worth the shipping. Let me know if you might be interested! Email is probably the best way: BrokenEmaxSport [at] gmail.com
Thanks!