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The welding shop where it was born
I see you are still having problems posting images. The V is for Voltage Tutorials are back up and there is a very good tutorial which shows you how to post and add images to the post. To see the tutorials you can click the "Help Tutorials" link at the top of the page or I have provided a link here to go to the same place.
Chas S.My Bicycle Pages
I started this bike in 1975. I was on a golf course, Byrnes Park, in Waterloo Iowa with a few friends. We had managed to scrape enough money together to rent an electric golf cart for a round of golf. Being kids, we had to go to the pro shop and get another cart as we had depleted the batteries before 9 holes on the first cart. I was amazed that an electric cart could go as fast and as long as it did. I was thinking motorized bike the whole round. I grew up on Sheridan Road, an older kid across the street named Ed had an electric go kart, with a cord. A friend I went to school with had an electric go kart that ran on batteries, I remember his last name, not his first, he was a year younger than me. You had to spin the wheel to get it started in the right direction because it would go forward or reverse when you flipped the switch. Man, anything that moved under its own power was exciting to me.
Got a gas powered mini-bike, no more thougts of electric. Rode it to school, always dodging the fuzz, never got caught for 3 years. Well, drivers license and girls, horsepower and gas engines for the next 30 years.
Last year I went to a family reunion in Dubuque Iowa. My Sister and Brother in Law live in Indiana. This is in June of 06. Brother in Law is talking about how drunk drivers lose their license and are putting weedeater motors on bicycles and scooting around town after losing their licenses. I'm thinking back to 75 and an electric motor. Get back to Dallas and started Googling. Found the old V. I read "Every Single Post". Found Eric Peltzer's site and "said that is what I want to build".
I posted a pic of a Dubuque street, I think in this town you had better gear down, I hav'nt been to San Francisco, but I think the hills here would compare.
I figured out how to post images. Now a new problem. I took all of my pictures with a kodak camera and used the included kodak software. I updated my Adobe Software. And now Adobe has hijacked all of my kodak pictures, kodak loads them with ? marks and says they have been moved. Basically, I am pieved to put it very lightly. My pics in the camera have been put on a disk thankfully. Any guidance on how to put my pics back into control of my kodak software would be, to put it lightly again, very much appreciated.
Just read the tutorial on how to post images. On the image browser in the tutorial, under operations, it has columns labeled "delete" and "add". When I open the image browser, I do not get the "add" column, it is not visible, the delete column does apear. Has stleride been posting my images for me, if so, post my images that are dated 6/17. I am not really computer illiterate, just hav'nt kept up, and I don't have the time to learn new software.
My Father is getting old, My Mother has Alziemers and is slipping fast. Lately, My Sister here in Dallas and I have been spending an inordinate amount of time caring for their needs. This is a labor of love, my first priority every day. I am pleased to be able to care for my Parents daily needs. My family wants to keep my Mother at home. I will spend whatever time it takes me to do this. Your help on my postings, and the others that have guided me on posting, anything that will simplify my ability to share my limited knowledge on ebikes through this forum are greatly appreciated.
Forums and graphic software are new to me and currently I need a lot of help in this area. Obviously, I am a little lost in this area.
one more time i will try to post and image, insert image,
removed popupblocker from my computer.
computer still beeps, number lock still goes off after every beep, but, the "add" column is now visible, computer beeps about every second word and my number lock light goes off, any comments.
I think I see a Peltzer clone. Good work, I thought about doing the same thing but I wanted to be able to use the bike gears so I went with a Bottom Bracket Drive design.
I use Mozilla Firefox and find it solves lots of the problems I.E. seems to have with this site. The problems you describe are very common using I.E. BTW did you solve the graphic problem on your system?
After reading Eric Peltzers' site, I set out to build something similar. I had a good bike, chrome-moly frame, great brakes, comfortable bike overall.
This is a read on not what to do. The rack worked. Solid. I used schedule plumbing pipe, 1/2".
1st, I put the motor to far back, torsion flex throughout the frame, that 15lb motor felt like a 50 lb catfish back there.
I tired of waiting on parts, went with chain drive primary and secondary.
Looks clean and neat. It's not. No clearance for the tires, no clearance for the chain, no clearance for the sprockets.
Almost ready for the first ride
Chain adjustment, thought this would suffice, it did'nt. welded a nut to the end of the pipe. Not sensitive enough. Microscopic adjustments are necesary.
Note the position of the contactor and controller, they change places down the road. Jackshaft about 1/8 inch from the tire, the hub of the gear is about a 1/16 of an inch from the tire.
Think I'll post, it's past midnight
Very hilly town.
I promise, no more off topic,
Thanks Chas, reinstalling my kodak software got my pictures back under kodak control.
These are some shots of the jackshaft and chain adjustment
Shots of bike rack near completion
The bike went through a few revisions, moved the motor under the seat.
Added a cheap rst suspension fork which greatly helped tracking at high speed.
Motor and Controller $495 KTA services. 24 volt 750 watt scott motor, alltrax 48v 300 amp nonprogramable
Batteries, $150 Batteries Plus, 2 PC 625 oddysey 18 amp hour, 12 amp hour at the 1/2 hour rate.
Throttle, $50 KTA services, Magura twist grip
Wiring components all purchased from KTA services, contactor, 6 gauge welding cable, lugs, lug crimp tool, heat shrink tubing $100 even.
Rear Wheel, $171.97, Stanton Inc. I bought a cheap rim, their 12 gauge spokes, 45 tooth threaded drive sprocket for a left side drive, no freewheeling, and their rear hub model l-36H-12-R.
Tires and accessories, The Bike Shop in Richardson TX. $60 for a pair of Maxxis Hookworm 26 x 2.5 tires, $20 for the tubes, front rim $30 Cat eye light for the front and rear, $30
Jack shaft assembly, Purvis Bearing Supply Dallas TX, pulley blocks, 5/8 keyed shaft, a 9, 10, and 20 tooth sprockets, #41 chain, chain breaker, about $200. I could of ordered these parts online for less than half this cost. My gates drive was backordered so I bit the bullet and went chain drive primary until my gates drive arrived.
Gates PG2 sprockets and belts. $80, from www.bearingsupply.com
Solneil 2409 charger, $90
Grand Total, about $1500
A little too much, I also have about $100 in waste trying different gearing ranges and motor placement changes which required different length drive belts.
I can feel the pain Chuck, those costs do add up, I'm afraid to total mine up ... so I just won't for now ... :D
Boy, and I thought Texas was flat.
Your bike does get a workout, definately closer to 12:1 Chuck! ;) You'll like the difference.
I sure am glad you were along for the ride on my build, I was going to mount my motor on a rack that was no where near as sturdy as yours, you saved me some grief by telling me to mount it RIGHT next to the frame.
I've got a few spare sprockets and pulleys around now too ... and a few less bucks ... :)
Thanks for sharing the build!
Electric - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike
Icon Photo of lighning striking Eiffel Tower Jun 3, 1902, taken by MG Loppe'
<a href="http://visforvoltage.org/book-page/996-mountain-bike-conversion-24v-3-4h... - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike</a>
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Communal learning about moving our butts around town without burning fossil fuels.