1. How do I know whether it is the "limited" Canadian version or the "full" US version? I know the motor is supposed to be different.
2. Is there a place I can download the manual? I bought it used - it was SUPPOSED to come with the manual - but it didn't.
3. How do I know whether the bike is charging or not? I connected it up, and the fan on the charger started. I thought that was a good sign.
4. How accurate is the "battery meter"? When I first turned it on, the POWER light came on. Then I turned on the headlights (it's 2am), and then I tried to "gas" it, and the whole thing turned off. Now I can't get it to come on at all. But before I turned on the headlights, I saw that the "battery meter" was almost full. I wasn't paying attention after that though.
5. What is the easiest and safest way to remove the silly-looking logos/stickers from the bike, without damaging the finish?
6. Is it normal for the units to arrive with some paint-marks and scuff-marks? I hear of stories that parts arrive broken. Is this common? Mine was purchased used, so I am trying to figure out whether the scuff-marks came from use (so-called "only 45 minutes used") or from original shipment before assembly.
7. My unit is missing the back rest, a 2nd set of keys, the manual.... *sigh*
8. Is there a way to know how old the unit is? i.e. Does it have a serial number, or a "manufactured date" somewhere?
-taka
Oh boy. I think you got skunked. When you said you "gassed" it and it all went black, well that sounds exactly like what is happening to several other of us who post here. For more information, check out this thread... http://visforvoltage.org/forum/6521-xb-700-li-complete-power-failure
I'm sure there are other posting but this is the main one. I am currently waiting on a replacement battery pack from Xtreme. So I wait some more.
Good luck, keep us posted. Scott.
I have a XB-600, but I think some of my experience would transfer.
Hee hee - you're not missing much, but let's hope someone on the site will scan one...
I've recommended buying a "Kill-a-Watt" power meter ($30 or so). They go in the 110 volt line, and will let you see the amount of power the charger is drawing. A three-stage charger should start with a constant maximum wattage, taper the wattage while maintaining maximum pack voltage, then taper the wattage until the green light comes on. A VOM (Volt-Ohm-meter) is also crucial for owners of EV's; Harbor Freight regularly sells remarkably accurate ones for $4.00.
This meter is probably a volt meter. Batteries can show almost full voltage even when they are empty. The crucial thing is the voltage they can supply under load. Just seeing a high voltage doesn't mean you're charged up. I'd do a full charge (after getting that "Kill-a-Watt" and a VOM to monitor the process) and then try again.
Sorry: the decals were put on UNDER the clear coat that provides the wonderful gloss. The do come off with some gentle persuasion, but there will be a dip in the finish, as well as residual adhesive, on the scoot after you're done. It will look better though.
Here's how my scoot came:
Yeah, the scuffs could have happened in the box if that wheel got loose or something made its way through the double carton. Buff 'em out.
Wow - yeah I disconnected the battery pack, waited, then re-connected it.. and it started up.
Do you know how often this happens?
As mentioned above, this sounds very much like the behavior discussed in this thread.
My guess is that the low-voltage cutout is getting triggered. This could be due to lack of charge in the batteries or excessive resistance at some point in the power wiring. It could also be due to some fault as discussed in the thread. I've had several instances of excessive resistance in a connector in the last few years. In my case, instead of the controller toggling off, I was getting smoke :(
There are two quick tests for excessive resistance/bad connections: Under load,
The trick is establishing an 80% load. I've had a little luck in putting the scoot on its center stand and manually applying the brake at the wheel for drag. The brake isn't smooth enough to do this well. You might also be able to try it in an area with a long gentle uphill where the motor could draw its full amps.
Mark
I know the Canadian model is supposed to have the 500W motor, while the US model has the 700W motor. Any way I can tell.
There is a sticker that says "This vehicle ... meets all the requirements under Section 2(1) of the Canada Motor Vehicle Safety Regulations"
Does that mean it's the Canadian model, or is this sticker on the US model as well - and if so, how can I find out whether the motor is 500W or 700W?
Any suggestions on ways to remove the "flame" logos? I thought I read that some people in this forum did that as the first step after receiving the bike?
Also - I noticed the controller had a sticker saying 08-2008. Did they ever have newer revisions of the controller? I think that is when this model (XB-700Li) first came out to the market... are there newer/better revisions of the controller?
Thanks.
As far as that sticker goes, I had one on mine also. And as for it being the Canadian model, check the battery pack. If I remember correctly, the Canadian ones come with 4x12v SLA batteries, not a much more expensive Lithium pack.
And as for the cut out problem. Mine would sometimes run for a couple of miles before I had to stop for a light or something else. And then it would do the cutout thing again. Sometimes it would do it back to back too. So, you might get lucky and not have it happen again or it may start being such a problem you can't even ride the scoot. At any rate, when some answers finally come from Xtreme I will be posting them here.
Cheers, Scott.
"I know the Canadian model is supposed to have the 500W motor, while the US model has the 700W motor. Any way I can tell."
look at the part numbers on the hub motor.
I have the user manual for the XB700Li in pdf form. I scanned it last year. Send an email to ttunes [at] yahoo.com and I'll send to anyone that requests.
As far as removing stickers. I gently pulled mine off. They came off very easily mith minimum of residue left behind.
Thom
I had the same problem. You dont have to wait any time from disconect to reconnect. My problem was throttling too quickly. I've learned to ease on the throttle kind of like when you find that sweet spot in a car clutch, and you dont lose any torque.
Patchouli74