Does anyone know how many max watts and current being delivered to the motor from a shunt mod stock controller at 60v?
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I am having a hard time getting this question answered I guess.
Yeah, you need that small subset of XB-600 owners that have a) done the shunt mod and b) are scientifically inclined enough to track down their actual current use.
I fit b) but not a).
As a baseline, with a "48V system," I'm regularly seeing about a 900+ Watt draw at maximum load. I'm using a DrainBrain (ancestor to the Cycle Analyst) on an extended shunt and "homemade calibration." I'm pretty sure of the calibration, but I haven't used it at the same time as a good high-current ammeter to be absolutely sure. All connections between the battery and controller are Anderson PowerPole on 10GA wire (14 Ga is stock!), while the controller/motor connections are stock brass.
Above 20MPH downhill, I'm seeing up to 300 Watts of regen.
BTW, I've got a second controller, but I've been so happy with stock performance that I haven't bothered to do the shunt mod to it.
Dick might have the answers you are looking for.... http://www.bergerweb.net/xb500/index.shtml
Thom
Thank you mf70,
I guess then the stock controller at 48v can draw as much as 900w at full speed. I am asking because I am thinking of installing a 72v controller that is 1500w and a 45amp max. I am concerned that the wiring might not be able to handle the max 45 amp 1500W controller. If the stock controller is 900w at 48v then it would be about 19 amps of current correct? If so how can an aftermarket controller have a 45 amp max at 72v and only produce 1500w?
Wattage is not calculated from MAX current and MAX voltage, it is calculated using RMS or Average I and V.
Likewise a 1500W motor can handle more than 1500W MAX, mostly ALL electrical motors and controllers use average values, though they DO have a MAX that they can handle. That 72V controller is roughly using a 20 amp average at 72V to come up with the 1500W
P=I*V .. power = current x Voltage. V=I*R
Perhaps to answer some of your other questions you should search this site for it. I remember reading a few posts where people had something installed on their bike to measure current draw and wattage consumption. I think it was in one of zerogas' posts.
If I recall correctly, someone stated that with a shunt mod at 60V on an xb-600, that the current draw was about 30-35 amps going up a hill trying to maintain speed.
Dave ; Tennessee
XB-600.
Thanks for answering my questions sixpax. I didn't think about RMS. If I remember correctly it is .707 of Max VxI. That makes sense. I have read some of the other threads on these topics. I did find the 30 or 35 amp post on the stock shunt mod. I was really trying to confirm that post. Based off the wiring going to the hub motor being tiny I think 30 to 35 amps is really pushing the amount of current those wires can handle. We'll the new 72v controller I ordered has a max of 45 amps which I can't see how the stock hub motor can draw that much current and if the tiny wires can hold 35 amps already then I should be ok using the new controller.
I would suggest replacing the wires. Even if the wires don't melt and short out like mine did, I saw a performance increase after replacing the wires with a bigger guage.
See my old post and pics here:
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/4952-xb500-controller-wiring
Whome
Whome, Were you using the 72v 28 amp max controller or the 45 amp controller when your wires shorted out? Also how much of the wires did you replace and when you installed the controller was it pretty much just matching up the color of the stock wires on the xb500? I have a xb600 and I wonder if the wires can handle more current and the xb500.
I was using the 45 amp controller, but it never went that high. I replaced the wiring from the controller to the wires from the motor. The XB-500 and the XB-600 are practically the same except for the frame and panels. The motor is the exact same part number and wattage as the XB-500. The controller is a diiferent model, but only because of the plugs for the peripherals. Same specs.
Whome
Thank you Whome, So I guess the controller is a little different on the xb 500 model. How do you like the ecrazyman 72v controller? Have you had any problems? You stated that the current hasn't gone that high, do you have any idea as to how much current you are drawing from the motor?
As far as the color of the wires on the bike itself, I guesss they match up pretty close to the new wire colors on the ecrazyman controller?
Thanks again for your help on this.
The controllers are different. The XB600 has 12 MosFets in the power control section of the controller, and the XB500 has only 6. (There are two in parallel for each motor phase in the XB600 controller)
I did some initial measurements on my XB500 before doing any mods on the controller. When it was stock, it would draw a maximum of 15 amps before the limiter would kick in, so that meant the max power with a fully charged battery (55.2 volts) would have been 828 watts. If you up the voltage by adding one fully charged cell, totaling 69 volts, the max power would be 1035 watts.
See more tech specs at http://www.bergerweb.net/xb500
Dickey_b
Waste Not, Want Not
I ended up using an Infineon controller that was actually 72v and 45amps instead of the Ecrazyman as I had planned. The wiring for both is very similar though. The Infineon also had a sensorless mod chip in it, so I did not have to figure out the hall sensors combination, just the phase wires. The vibration from the sensorless chip eventually caused the motor to work loose though and rotate the hub. I had to rewire the motor after that.
It worked well, but I finally just stopped throwing money at it becasue I finally figured out that it would never be able to be what I wanted to make it. It was fun and I learned a lot, but I finaly just ended up buying a bigger electric scooter.
AVS
I ended up using an Infineon controller that was actually 72v and 45amps instead of the Ecrazyman as I had planned. The wiring for both is very similar though. The Infineon also had a sensorless mod chip in it, so I did not have to figure out the hall sensors combination, just the phase wires. The vibration from the sensorless chip eventually caused the motor to work loose though and rotate the hub. I had to rewire the motor after that.
It worked well, but I finally just stopped throwing money at it because I finally figured out that it would never be able to be what I wanted to make it. It was fun and I learned a lot, but I finally just ended up buying a bigger electric scooter.
Whome
I wonder what the differences really are between the Infineon controller and ecrazymans? Both are 72v 45 amp controller and based off the pictures they look identical from what I can tell.
Whome, was the rewiring you did before because of the current melting the stock wires to the motor or was it the hub motor rotating or both?
richardb, didn't you write in a post awhile back that you measured around 25amps of current from the stock controller with the shunt mod? If so then the shunt mod stock controller would be putting out about 1500w at 60v. This is very close to the ecrazyman 72v 45amp (max) 1500w controller. That controller probably puts out around 20amps rms at 72v for 1500w. It does have a 45amp max but I can't see this motor drawing that much current under a load .
I had to rewire once when the stock wires melted, and then I had to rewire just the motor after it spun loose.
Whome
Actually... unless you get and use a 72V controller with regen braking I dont think there will be any performance upgrade over a shunt modded stock controller with the minimal cost of replacing the caps and mosfets.
On another note.. of the reduced acceleration and top speed... I noticed my tires had lost some pressure... juiced them back up to ~37psi and the top speed and acceleration seems to be a lot better now.
Dave ; Tennessee
XB-600.
Ya, Using the stock controller with upgraded caps and mosfets would do the trick just fine. I didn't want to go through all the work to do that so I ordered ecrazymans 72v controller. I am waiting for it to arrive still. I thought when ordering it that it was made by the same company as the stock one and just had the higher voltage caps and mosfets installed already, not so sure now. I guess I will see how it goes.
BTw, I checked my tire pressure and my front is 35 psi and the rear is 45 psi. I believe that is an acceptable level. Shoot, that would have been an easy fix.