XB700Li mods

Another mod is the windshield. I'm 6 foot 1 inch so I sit on the back of the seat so that puts me well above the stock windshield of the 700Li.
Solution: Buy a sheet of polycarbonate (Lexan) and make my own. I first cut a rough size that I copied from the stock one. cut it out on the band saw. My limitation was the size of my oven. Diag. my oven will fit a 26.5 inch piece so that's how big my windshiend is. Which is only 6 inches higher but that's all I needed. Next I PRE heated my oven to 400 degrees, then I TURNED OFF THE OVEN and place my cut polycarbonate in it for about 4 - 5 min. that's it. pulld it out and applied pressure on the sides to achive a slight curve to it. then I made a jig and using a heat gun heated up the bottom edge and bent it around my jig. cut off some of the extra lexan from bend, drilleed my holes and mounted. I used the stock windshild to make my jig. check out the pics

Also I used part of the shipping packaging to make a carrier for my tool box and other stuff. at least my 700Li came with some 1/8" x 3/4" strapping (metal) material so I figured I could recycle the stuff. see included pics

Yea Randel which MOD do you need info about. I'll have to take some pictures of the lights if you need them. I really can't believe how easy it was to do this mod. But it did cost me about , if I remember , like $25+s&h for 48v to 12v converter,

Endor Star 300 Lumen 3 Up  7007-PWC-10-3         2  16.36
LED SUPPLY.com;
2 x Pre-Mounted Rebel Cool White LEDs on a 20mm Tri-Star Base - 540 lm
(MR-WC100-20T)  = $55.64
2 x PowerPuck 700mA DC LED Driver (With Leads) (2008B-700)  = $42.64
3-Up EndorStar Medium  DB-OPML-3-025         2   4.99
Lens Optic
AND THE approx 2" SQ adhesive backed heatsinks. I can't find the order form for the price but I think the entire price for everything was approx $125.00
REMEMBER; DON'T LOOK INTO THE LIGHTS!



The polycarbonate came from USPLASTIC.com
as follows;
Item # Qty Qty U/M Item Price Disc % Disc Price Extended Price Item Description
43017 1 Sheet $21.77   $21.77 $21.77 Polycarbonate 24" x 48" 1/16" Thick

Totals
Order Subtotal $21.77
Shipping and Handling $8.57
Tax $0.00
OrderTotal (USD) $30.34
this is enough for one f@(;ck up and one perfect one.
Email me and I can send you copies of these pics
Hope some of this might help.
Dave C.Stout

Mike:
they made one up for me. They make a 800 watt hub motor 10" rim so I think they just slapped the hub motor in a 16" rim. From manufacturing point of view this would be the way to go 'cause they'd only have to made several type of components instead of hundreds. Anyway. Be sure to ask for it in detail including drum brakes. Now I didn't say anything about the pedaling gear attached to the right side and I was cursing myself but when It got here there was threads for the gear. Unbelieveable! But great. So I took the one off the old hub and WOW! it actually threaded right on the 800 watt hub. The entire assy looks very similar to the one that's on the 700Li already so I think it came from the exact same manufacturer. The rims design is almost exactly the same too so it will look 'stock' when your done.
Anyway the contacts name is Sue. That's what I ask for and here's her response;

Hello Sir:
 Thanks for your reply.
 the 48v 800w 550rpm 16'' sample price is $90/pc.the tire is $10/pc.the controller is $30/pc.
 the air cost for one set is $188. OUCH!!!!
 If you pay  by T/T,you should pay $30 more as bank commission,if you pay by western union,you don’t need pay that.
 best wishes
susan

PS If you figure out the 550rpms to actual mph it comes to 26.18mph but my baby goes over 27 mph and I'm 190 pounds (winter weight) and fully winter garbed and carrying my 28 pound toolbox for work. I'd bet mine would easily do 29mph at full charge.
PSS my controller for this unit was assembled hastily and wasn't being heatsinked properly so I had to adjust mounting of PCB inside the controller so SCRs would have better heat transfer to the heatsink (cover). Easy to do. This prevents controller from cutting off when full throttle is applied (most of the time).
Good luck
Dave S

I payed by Western Union, the transfer cost $45 or so.

The specs for wheel assy are measured by the max. Dia of the tire not the rim. Yes my rim is actually about 12" OD. I had a shock wave run through my head to when I was ordering my assembly too. Don't worry it'll be right. If you need to know my tire states "16x3" also. 2nd Q. Was about the spacing between mounting points. If you look or at least mine has spacer washers on each side to 'eat up' any gap. For a smooth ride as with a regular bicycle too it's extremely important to make sure the front and back wheels are on the same plane. It's easy to see on my pro series bicycle ( because the tires are only 19 mm wide) if the wheels are on the same plane by simply riding through a puddle of water and ride as straight a line as possible. Now look at the marks on the road your tires left. If you only see one tire track that means your tires ar running on the same plane. If you see two tire tracks then they have to be adjusted. Your vehicle/bike will have to fight itself which will result in shaking and/or a wierd handling effect. So make sure your tire is mounted correctly. Measure your tires side to side and make sure the distance between frame and tire isthe same on both side or as close as possible/practical. Use the washer spacers to help achive this. That's why thier there. Enough babbling. Hope this helps
Dave S.

My hub 700Li hub motor is approx. 5-3/4" to 6" so it should fit nicely. Remember you dealing with people/company in China so translation and time is strained. Be patient.
Dave S.

Drum brakes, and here's some pics of the hub motor.

READ THE SERIAL NUMBER, THAT SHOULD HELP YA. it's; 48V800WSX10015989

OOP! HOW DID THAT GET ON HERE? Yeah that's my license plate.

Dave S.

jeffason;
yes, that's right the frame is very light weight and the fork doesn't have any bearing either. I'd say 30mph is the max anyone should try to go. Still though I havn't had any vibrations, shimmies yet but I do hear and feel the steering column shift when I break hard/fast which is from the front fork shaft having to much play in the column. I'm thinking of welding a set of bearing in there to cure this problem.
Dave S.

With the 800 watt hub motor with the 800 watt controller ( a matched set ) the battery ( 5 months old with 700 miles on it ) lasts 15.2 miles per charge. I have a Garmin 305 bicycle GPS unit mounted to the handlebars. I've ran it this way to test it. Like I said, the way I mod'd my bike I can plug both Batteries in at the same time or just use one or the other. I did this so I can charge one and ruun with the other if I want to.
I just ordered yet another battery from Optimum-China company. It's a 48volt 30 amp nominal witha 50 amp maximum drain output with a nice BMS for $848 total including $150 shipping. this will be going into another scooter prototype but I'm still going to test it in the 700Li. this I'm also going to stuff under the seat.
Dave S.

I did just get my 48V @ 30 Amp battery from china. WOW! Got a new full twist throttle also and thus baby wails! Over 30mph on the flats and over 32 miles in distance even going up an altitude of over 700 feet on that same charge. This was definitly worth it's wait in gold to me. I only have to charge once a week.
But the problem was/is is that it didn't fit under the seat because of the BMS but it doesn't cut out like the non Bms battert from x-treme. Or if it does which I plan on ripping apart soon it was faulty. I'll take a pic to show a simple mod with wiring too. This winter will be something differant 'cause I have not figure out a simple way to take battery out for inside charging. I'll think about it.
HAPPY RIDING
Dave C.. Stout

bike stores have nice tin 12 to 16mm head wrenches that might help.
I'm going to bed!!!!

shots of mod'e battery compartment on the 700XL
48volt 30 amp + 30 mile at 28mph WOW! ( for me)

Bickyd;
get use to that silly grin 'cause I'm still wearing it to! Isn't it great? And you can ride with confidence too, being sure your motor will make it through the intersection and being able to take command at a four way stop sign instead of waiting until the intersection is empty 'til you creep across it.
Just keep a keen lookout for cops so they won't catch you going over 20mph.
My next modis hoooking a bright dual flashing LED (from ledsupply.com) to a flexible solar panel to the back of the bike for safty. Actually I'm almost done I just have to hook a switch to the circuit. I want to hook a momentary switch under the seat so when seated the circuit is turned 'on'. But so far I mess up the seat lock latch. I wish I had accurate design plans of the scooter itself. I'm a design engineer by trade so I NEED drawings!
I found a neat website that sellss flexible next generation solar panels and the 'raw' materials. I can get you the info if anyone want it. It's exspemsive like everything else.
Im glad someone else is following my advice because it will make you satisfied.
Talk to ya soon and thank for getting back. And don't smile too much you mate might get jealous.
Dave C. Stout

Here are the front Light Mods I did using LED Rebel stars from LedSupply.com Each LED is 540 Lumens bright. KICKASS!!!
The Socket was cut down from the back, the electrical connectors were removed and the LEDs and the lens slipped right in. the hole in the socket is the exact size needed for the assembly. I couldn't believe it! The heatsink has a adhesive backing so the assembly is literally glued on. I've driven at least 200 miles and 2 months with it and it's still there. Of course theres no place for it to go but it's still there.

Here is the Solar Panel and back Flashing Light Assembly. Inside the Light Assembly I gutted it and built a simple Astable Multivibrater circuit. It's basically just two MOSFETs and two resistor/capacitor timing circuit. The Solar panel charges two 3.7volt lithium batteries hooked up in series giving the lights 7.4 volts at 740mA. They are fairly bright. Definitly NOT as bright as the front lights. This is a fun and simple project for anyone who wants to try it. Of course I can provide schematic and suppliers if needed.

heres where I put the Light Switch. I wanted to put a switch under seat so when seated the light is switched on but this was a whole lot easier.

That's it, Happy MODing everyone.
Dave C. Stout
!

I WANT TO CORRECT MYSELF. I stated above that the 700Li's fork didn't have any bearings, WELL I WAS WRONG ACCORDING TO X-TremeScooters. They do have upper and lower bearings on the steering column.
I'm sorry for miss leading anyone.
Dave C. Stout

Thanks Robert93
I build my own road bicycles too. I have build four altogether. All of them except the first one are Look carbon fiber frames. I press my upper and lower bearings On the fork myself so I know how to "seat" them and adjust them properly. Ya can't over tighten them or you'll actually break the ceramic bearings. (I have ceramic bearings, they are less them half the weight of steel bearings). And you can't have them too loose because you may break them and score the race which means you have to buy another $200 set of bearings.
I also build my own wheels with deep V rims and aerohead rims from austraila, bladed spokes from DT and mulit-colored nipples with American Classic hubs. They are lighter then any rim you can buy.
Im a very avid cyclist putting 8 to 10 thousand miles on a year.
The only problem I might have is finding the right size ( OD and ID ) bearing. I'm sure the space is very tight. I haven't checked it out yet.

Thanks for your help.
Dave C Stout