New Trike build---Gomier w/ Cyclone 24 V 650 watt--almost ready to start

[quoo today I've been busy ordering primary wire # 10, 6 gauge battery cable & battery lugs, XLR connectors, molex connectors, fuses & a fuse holder, solder & a soldering iron, etc. I also talked with a local bike shop about getting me a derailleur & another guy about a battery charger so I've been busy! It feels good though to finally get started. Before this is over FEDEX will worn out! It is hard to believe that all the parts come from all over the USA and even from CHINA!!! The trike is a Gomier 6-speed, the tool box is my battery box---it goes underneath the rear basket raising the basket 9" & the other photo is the 650 watt Cyclone kit

The funds cleared the bank today so I was busy ordering stuff on my p/c. I ordered, The Gomier trike, Cyclone 650 watt kit, chain, master links, chain-breaker tool & bottom bracket tools, 4-33 amphr batteries SLA, tool (battery box, front basket, & a trike cover. So far the build has cost +-$ 1,600.00 & I budgeted $ 2,000.00 & I expect to spend every bit of that if not more. I still want to change out the controller from Cyclone to the newest one from Golden Motors so I will have theft protection, cruise control and programability along with top speed limiter.

Ok, I ordered more parts!---trike cover, set of 11 hole saws, I bid on a charger, key lock ( like an ignition switch, with a removable key in one on position [for mounting in the face of the tool box (battery box) wired to the "hot wire" of the throttle] so I can ride the bike without a key hanging out, wire strippers/ crimpers, 50" extension cord, 200 watt soldering iron, 60 watt soldering iron,harness tape, and spray white grease.

I must admit it is fun to order all this stuff but it has taken all day!

So now, after all that ordering over the weekend I had to make two more folders on the P/C for emails & one for my file cabinet! Only one snafu so far---"seems that in the heat of the moment I forgot to verify if the charger I bought on Ebay is for SLA's so now I've got to get in touch with the manufacturer to find out.---I think & hope it is but I don't want to risk blowing them up!

Well, for the next few days it is an email & waiting game. I guess I could get polish my wrenches!!!hehehe!!

I just got news that I DID buy the right charger after all!! I bought a 6 amphr charger off of Ebay for about $40.00!!!---a new one is near $100.00!! A ten amphr which is about as large as I can use goes for about $350.00. So, if I drain the batteries a complete recharge should take 22 hrs but I will never drain 132 amphrs of batteries.

I just received the 1st item! ---a 200 watt soldering iron for the battery lugs but it had a crack in the handle due to a knot in the wood. So, this is an Ebay item & I emailed the seller reference the problem. I do expect some problems due to the volume of items I have ordered.

I decided to order a set of jack-stands (over budget item) to put under the rear axles for testing of the motor, chains, & shifting. After MUCH searching I found them @ Sears w/ free shipping for $19.30!--a GOOD deal. So, I think I'm ready to build---I have scratched my old brain & cannot think of anything else that I need.

I just received the 1st item! ---a 200 watt soldering iron for the battery lugs but it had a crack in the handle due to a knot in the wood. So, this is an Ebay item & I emailed the seller reference the problem. I do expect some problems due to the volume of items I have ordered.

I shipped the soldering iron back for a replacement---so far I don't think the lost time will have an impact.

(edit) I was notified the new soldering iron had shipped--good!

Lets see here--uuuhhh--I think an update on the charger is due. As I said it is a 6 amp & chargers that size & larger are hard to find a deal on. Well, the seller's employee dropped mine & broke it breaking the hard-to-find fuse in the process. The seller (from ebay) is substituting another charger but it has no fuse & the other charger's fuse is broken so the seller is chasing fuses & cannot ship until he does. So, I located some on the web for him so now we have that shipping time to deal with. If I get lucky these delays won't impact the build as I still do not have the trike or the Cyclone motor kit yet.

If memory serves me correctly that is only two items delayed so far & that isn't TOO bad.

Here in my personal shipping/ ordering/ receiving/ secretarial/ bookkeeping department have been clicking right along w/ a bit of overtime required. The invoices are filed w/ copies to the accountant. Receiving has been especially active & that is what I LIKE!! Below are pics of the latest items to come in w/ more on the way. The white one is a MOLEX connector, fuses are yellow/orange, fuse holder red & black, key out ON switch, 6-24 volt test light, wire strippers/ crimpers, 4- batteries, bicycle flag

As you can see the batteries have flat terminals used w/ bolts. This is not what I anticipated from the pic's on the supplier's website----there they like a regular car battery but flat w/ a 1/4" or 5/16" hole on them for a bolt. In that I already ordered battery lugs w/ 5/16" holes I am going to have to use some small fender washers & that will have to do. I am running 8 gauge wire for the battery cables and 10 gauge elsewhere such as to the controller and I have a Anderson connector coming for that.

It seems such a shame--I have STUFF but cannot do any work! Oh, I almost forgot---I tinned the soldering iron!!!

Oh I almost forgot--I ordered a Schwinn 17 function electronic speedometer for $15.68 including shipping. I mostly want the trip meter & odmeter functions to better keep an eye on my batteries.

(edit) It seems I made a mistake and ordered the wrong key-switch for controlling the throttle circuit. One phone call & they are giving & shipping me a new one where it can be on with the key being removable---that is necessary in that it mounts on the battery box which is out of reach while riding.

I found the bracket on my bike flag to be too weak for comfort so I contacted the seller & they agreed to send a new one of the same. I intend on soldering the two together to make a sturdier bracket. From what I have read the brackets are week on many brands so beware---read the comments before you buy.

A trip to the local hardware store yielded acid core solder, for the flag & fender washers for the batteries. Now it is a waiting game for UPS to run.

Only two deliveries today & the were NOT the trike or Cyclone motor kit! I received a extra large heavy duty front basket and it is exactly what WALD (manufacturer) said it would be--I LIKE IT!!! I also received a pair of 4-ton jack stands from Sears/ Kmart & I am well satisfied with them. Now, I am just waiting on a few parts and the trike so I can start.371" alt="Front basket.jpg" />

(edit) It is Saturday & I received 2 deliveries of wiring harness non-adhesive tape, and 1-50 amp Anderson connector without the contacts---I FORGOT to order them so I did so today!---The killer about that is that I KNEW BETTER---I just was in a rush to order EVERYTHING in one day. There will be no deliveries over the weekend so I just have to continue to wait for the Trike, motor kit, charger and a few more items.

Note: Earlier in the post I said it would take 22 hrs to fully charge my batteries but that is an error--it will take 11 hours w/ 2-66 amphr batteries & a 6 amphr 24 volt charger.

Some have questioned just how one can use a 3 Pc. chainwheel on an electric bike. It means being able to shift your front derailleur with the motor chain running on the chainwheel next to it & it does not seem that there would be room for two chains to pass & ordinarily I do not think there would be. However, in the case of a Cyclone 3 Pc. chainwheel kit there is a space created between the motor-driven chainwheel & the adjacent chainwheel by the freewheel. As far as the derailleur is concerned, due to the "space" it does not intrude into the path of the motor chain. The motor chainwheel is also the outside chainwheel with the the center & inside chainwheels being shift-able. The front derailleur has to have a span of at least 20 teeth ---the difference between the largest chainwheel tooth-count & the smallest. It also must have a range up to at least 44 teeth---the largest chainwheel & down to at least 24 teeth---the smallest chainwheel. Although it may appear that I mounted the motor so that the derailleur is centered between its chain that is not the case---I just want the motor out of the way--I could have mounted it any wher without chain interference. Below are a few pictures to help clarify the matters---note the gap between the two largest chainwheels.

OK!!! The bike came in via UPS along with battery cable, battery lugs, 10 gauge primary wire, and the NEW 200 watt soldering iron to replace the defective one. Well, needless to say it has been a busy day! I started by unpacking the bike & looking for instructions---they were a joke!
All in all the assembly went well---no missing parts etc. It was king of tricky bolting the rear axle assembly to the frame by myself but I persevered & got it done. I still have the front fender & rear basket to install. The darn basket is going to take 3 octopuses to hold it still so I can put the clips on it. I think I'll use some duct tape as temporary clamps.

I have one problem with it throwing the chain off the front chainwheel. It was getting dark & late but I think it is due to a slightly warped front chainring so I intend to give it a closer inspection tomorrow.

I took it out for a short spin & found that one can sure FEEL the TILT in the road---that will take some getting used to. Below are some pics of the build today. Oh, one more thing, my battery box (tool box) fit like a glove & it looks fine. I had to modify it by removing the top-tray & its supports---I chiseled through some spot welds with hardly any damage so I am proud of my tool box idea.

height="371" alt="rear axle src="/sites/default/files/u5300/Seat%20%26%20hardware.jpg" width="500" height="371" alt="Seat & hardware.jpg" />assembly.jpg" />

I was just singing "Happy Birthday" when the postman delivered my CYCLONE KIT!!! Oh YEEEAAAHH it felt good! I started the day finishing the trike---installed the front fender & readjusted the front basket. I finished soldering the battery lugs & drilled holes in the battery box for a XLR charging connector, a switch, & a large rubber grommet for the controller/ motor wiring. I then took a trip to the hardware store for some 16 gauge primary wire, eye, connectors & nuts & bolts to mount the battery box. When I returned I waxed the bike before the back end is covered. Next I temporarily mounted the motor so I could work out the chaining. Below are some more pics. I had to order the bottom bracket adapter today after I had both the trike & Cyclone kit---It hurts because it will hold me up on the cyclone installation and finishing.71" alt="000_0042.jpg" />width="500" height="371" alt="000_0044_0.jpg" />g" />

(edit) The next day: I mounted the battery box & installed the batteries & controller, installed the e-brake levers, shifter, & throttle. I installed a 40 amp fuse, turned the throttle & the MOTOR RAN!!YEEAAHH!!! Now I rally wish I had the missing bottom bracket adapter----that is all I need to ride it. I wanted to overnight it but the seller had no provisions for that---oh well, I just wait. I may have some nit-picks to take care of---I need to order a new horn--the old one works but will look SO CRAPPY on the new bike I won't use it. I may install two 3" round soffit vents in the battery box in the center for improved air flow & possibly one or two computer case fans, one @ each vent. I have to wait & see on that as to how much heat is generated by both the batteries & controller. I want to order a 3/8" vinyl coated sling for security---my alarm-padlock came in today. I think I am going to use two 12" long cabinet drawer guides center mount type on top of the battery box to mount the rear basket so it is easily removable.

I'm still waiting impatiently waiting for the delivery of my bottom bracket adapter so I decided to wire in my key switch. It has a removable key in ON & OFF positions--one reason for that is I live on the beach in shorts & most of us carry our keys on a lanyard around our neck so I cannot leave the key in & ride. It also kills the throttle so no one can move the bike with the power on switch on the throttle itself. Later today I am going to pre-wire for a kill switch to be located on the seat post within easy reach.

(edit) So OK!!!~--the bottom bracket came by US mail!! I wasted no time installing it and and the new sealed bottom bracket spindle but it took at least two hours due to the tight fits. So, I got that done & then re-did my bike chain & then the motor chain & took off riding!!!--AT LAST!!--I am done!! I took it up to 17MPH & believe with my gears I can do more but 17 MPH is fast enough on a trike. I am ecstatic about the whole thing except for the more than $2,000 it took! It is worth the money to me.

Here are, I think the last pics. I will do range checks & post that info. later. On the battery box is the key switch & XLR battery charging recepticle. On the handle bar is the speedometer/ tripometer & more.(edit) I forgot to say that my 6 original speeds (cassette) are unaffected and shift fine. Tomorrow is off to the bike shop for a set of pedals as the originals don't fit. While there we will look at installing & selecting my new front derailleur---then I will be up to 12 speeds. I manually shifted the front chainring from the larger to the smaller & found I had to remove two more links of chain & did so. The Trike has a LOT of POWER in that low gear---24 teeth---that is lower than the original chainring which I replaced. I am leaving it in low gear for my first trip off the island tomorrow when I visit the bike shop. They are excited to see the trike.

Hey, THANKS for the compliments. I really needed that after all that WORK!!!I built it FAST--I just started ordering parts last Easter!

I'll try to address all your interests & questions. As far as I am concerned the Gomier is a top shelf bike----very well built & finished. It turns people's heads all the time. It beats the Walmart bikes by a long shot & has the six speeds which you will want for general pedaling. I would not be concerned about the weight of the trike---it does not make that much difference.At speed the trike is very stable but 17 MPH to 20MPH is as fast as you want to go---past that & you get into trouble. I have not yet charged it as I am waiting on the charger. A full battery drain will take all night to charge---less use less time charging. I went with SLA batteries because of cost--$300.00 versus $900.00 to 1200.00 with the balancers and charger for twin 40's---I may be off on the LiFePO4 prices because I gave up on that approach a long time ago. When these SLA's die I have the option of going LiFePo4.I went with the 650 because it was the largest 24 volt Cylcone kit available & only cost $ 40.00 more than a 500. I have steep bridges to contend with & the motor must haul the batteries at #100, me at #165 & the trike at+- #100.00 up those bridges---that is part of why I will have 12 gear speeds if I need them. I already had six & by going to the triple chainring I doubled that for 12 speeds. Oh, I forgot---my design range is 16 to 20 miles---it very well may be a LOT more----I have to test it to find out. I'll post that when I know. I'm going to get on the bike trail & drive as far as I can & call for a buddy & his truck.

In my opinion the trike is not too heavy for a front hub at all. My advise is to get the largest motor & battery you can afford. Thinking of batteries & the future, it takes either 3 or six to run a 36 volt & 4 or 8 to run a 48 volt system. So, if, down the road you want more range you have to add either 3 or 4 more batteries. Or, get larger cells now so you do not have to add on later. Figure roughly 2 amphrs./ mile.

As far as hub motors go--I am not a fan but I am not saying they are no good. There are many who love them. Just by a decent one & make sure you get all the parts you will need. As far as the trike goes---you need to use a front hub or if you went rear hub the you have to ship your wheel to them so they can weave the spokes on your wheel---(because of the large rear axles)---ask THEM on this because I am treading on unfamiliar ground right there.

If you want the same type setup I have but simpler you could order direct from Taiwan as I did & save money.---you get it in about 10 to 14 days. These are Cyclone Taiwan prices---add +- $100.00 for shipping.$338 3 x 720, $308 3 x 500, $288 3 x 360---those are triple chainring like mine---these are not to hard to install but unless you locate the motor as I did you will not have enough cable length. These are single chainring--they install under and just to the rear of the bottom bracket & seat post.$298.00 1 x 360, $318 1 x 500, $350 1 x 600. If I were in your shoes I would get a 500 watt triple chainring so I keep the motor out of the dirt---it is cheaper than a single chainring. Asuming you build on a Gomier trike you have to buy a new set of pedals in that the old ones don't fit. You also need to order the Cyclone tool kit $35, & 2 pieces of chain from cyclone. You need to order the bottom bracket adapter off the net. It is in my pics --it is BLACK. Keep in touch & tell me what you think & what I missed. Good luck!

That's why I have the big basket on the trike in front and back---to haul my BALLS around!!! Jim Olsen @ Cyclone USA is a good guy---he will help you too. Yes, rear power kills your gears while under power & I do not think the bracket will mount to the large axles of a trike---it is different than a bike. What I have is called a "mid-drive"--they are used on recumbent's also.What allows the pedals to stay still is called a freewheel. Any bike has at least one. The motor kits have two---one for the motor & one for the crank. The trike has one in the rear cassete as all bikes do. It is a thin bearing--a one way bearing---the other way it catches.

The charge level lights are on the throttle---I use a $12.00 speedometer/ trip meter & more functions--17 I think.---made by schwinn on Amazon.The gomier gear changer is actually a Shimano & is on the right---it is a half-grip-twist & yes I did move the shifter--you just shif backwards---you don't even know it. You can get a left 6 speed nshimano shifter for $15.00 or so on Amazon.

I took it out for a 7 mile ride over the bridges & it climbs them like nothing.

so this morning I had a trip planned to the hardware store & then a 7 mile round trip to the bike shop for pedals as my old ones did not fit. Stopped by the bank to get a new debit card---it seems my bank caught a thief getting ready to charge a bunch to my account so they killed the card. Well, the bank agents were too busy so I hit the hardware store for a $18.00 large drill bit to attempt to mount my flag on the rear axle, some nuts, lock washers, & bolts to plug the holes from where the handle used to be---I removed it from the top so the basket will lay on there flat., Some acorn nuts to cover the ends of the motor bracket bolts where I cut them off to a decent shorter length. Then it was off across the bay & up two bridges. I wondered how well the trike would do---well I was taken aback!!!--it just ate those bridges for lunch!! I got my pedals installed & came back to find my battery charger had made it here at LAST!! HOOORRAAAAY!!!

I did succeed in mounting the flag but it ended up on the battery box because the bracket they sent that I bought the bit to drill out which I did ended up turning with the wheel! I installed the bolts in the battery box plugging the holes & started to check out my charger---I wanted to see if its plug was wired in the same way & polarity as my receptacle---it was the same so I am set to charge. I think I am going take a ride the check out my flag & the bank.

(edit) I did the bank trip but no success--I have to come back. The flag worked fine. I took another trip to the police department to register the trike but I have to come back Monday. I've got it on the charger for the night. This way I start off with a full charge & my trip meter set @ zero so I'll know how far I can go after they run down again---they came new with a partial charge. I have yet to install my Anderson connector--I just pull the fuse for now.

After using the bike & gears I have decided not to install the front derailleur---I just move the chain manually. I find I rarely if ever will use the smaller front chainring---I have plenty of gearing range with the 6-speed rear cassette. I am glad for the 3pc chainring in case I need it but it is flat here in Florida so I will rarely use it. Another thing about the derailleur I want to make clear for everyone. It has to have a span of 20 teeth and a range of at least 44---trying to find THAT rare animal is very, very tough---they do exist but I would have to deal direct with corporate at Shimano & other major manufacturers to find it. I found one very close that might have worked. But, it CAN be done.

(edit) I JUST FOUND the derailleur needed!!! & here is the linkAmazon

I just got done charging my batteries from a yellow condition to full charge---it took my 6 amphr charger just 4 hrs---I had thought it would be near 8 or 10 hrs.

I just came back from a range check. I live on what are called fingers on the bay on the Gulf beaches---"fingers" is a reference to a map view of the land--it looks like a tracing of your hand with a road running down the middle of each finger. So I drove the fingers to rack up mile but still being close to the house. I was running about 15MPH which is near full throttle & I took in one large bridge to figure that in & I made almost 8 miles. I had not JUST topped the batteries off---I'll do that next time. I got no yellow warning light or I missed it due to watching traffic---it just quit with a red light with the throttle on so I assume it was low batteries. I am charging now so I will see in about 4 hours what gives.

I have been thinking further of the front derailleur---I might just do it now for two reasons. 1) to prove it can be done & 2) so I can easily shift to low range for the bridges.---I think now I need to cut my speed overall & lower my gear ratio at the bridges to extend my range. I will have to continue testing. I am expecting more range & I want more range. I cannot afford LiFePo4 so I must work w/ SLA's that I have.

(edit)I just came back from a lowest gear range test on the flats only at 8.5 MPH with full throttle---no bridges & am up to 10 miles & I quit because my BUTT is sore! & the neighbors are wondering why I keep going up & down the fingers! Maybe I'll finish it tomorrow & plan my next test. I am thinking about upping the gearing and working it so that full throttle gives me about 12 MPH to see the difference of only what a higher gear makes. I also need to do a test of using a higher gear at 8.5 MPH to see what difference it makes. It is, I can tell, going to take a lot of tests to get a grip on this trike's capabilities.

(edit) Yesterday I had my 1st problem---a power shut down & I was 1/2 mile from the house so I pedaled back. I had just come down a bridge, traveled a few blocks & the power shut down. I got a red light on the throttle. I never saw a yellow but could have missed it. I suspected low batteries so I put it on the charger but it charged in only 1-1/2 hours---2-1/2 hours too fast for empty batteries & by then it was too late to feel the motor. Since it seems that the problem was NOT low batteries, but I don't positively KNOW that because I did not do a voltage check, my suspicions are that it was an overheat problem & the sensors shut it down. It also could be a fluke e-brake switch problem. Anyway, it is up & running & I want to complete the low gear range check but I cannot due to rain today.

(edit) I had a break in the rain & went to the store for a total of 10.25 miles on the latest full charge on flat roads at 8.5 MPH & I still have battery left---I am hoping for a lot more miles. I did find that my alarm padlock does not like the rain---it still functions but one can barely hear it. I have a cover for the trike but forgot to look at the weather last night. I will have to pay better attention to the weather in the future.

I finished the 1st range test---75.41 miles on flat roads @ 8.5 MPH low low gear with throttle wide open & a sore BUTT!!! I found the motor is most efficient running wide open so I control the speed with gearing.

(edit)The recommended end-of-discharge voltage for the SLA is 1.75V/cell. Unlike the preferred flat discharge curve of the NiCd, the SLA has a gradual voltage drop with a rapid drop towards the end of discharge (see Figure 5-1).

It took me 10 days to get the bike & comes from CA & I live in FL---via UPS---1 box. You should be fine with a rear facing seat centered over the axle---it won't wheelie out on you as I have #100 of SLA's there. As far as getting sore--I was doing a LOT of riding. In my opinion my range mainly because of the gearing---I have found the motor is most efficient at top RPM so I gear so that my throttle is wide open for the best mileage. Do a post of YOUR build--I will be looking forward to seeing it.

• 150 – 200 cycles with 100 percent depth of discharge (full discharge)
• 400 – 500 cycles with 50 percent depth of discharge (partial discharge)
• 1000 and more cycles with 30 percent depth of discharge (shallow discharge)

[/QUOTE]

I am familiar w/ your bullet list however, you still provide no safe VOLTAGE for discharge---without that it is just a generality that my meter cannot measure.

REMEMBER, I am in a testing mode--I do not intend to continue to push the batteries this hard---I needed a base line to work from. So far, from the information I have been able to collect the safe discharge level for my 24 volt batteries lies somewhere between 12.2 volts and 1.75 volts---that range is simply TOO large--I need some SOLID information to go on.

I believe the following is GOOD information I can trust.

Hello Mr. Tone,

Lead Acid resting State of Charge voltages

12.65 V = 100% 25.30
12.45 V = 75% 24.90
12.24 V = 50% 24.48
12.06 V = 25% 24.12
11.89 V or less = discharged 23.78

Resting voltage is taken at room temperature and 12 - 24 hours after the completion of charging.

Tom

Using the chart above and its discharged state of 23.78 volts my range should be at + - 50.00 miles in low low gear at 8.5 MPH which is about when my yellow light came on so NOW I can use that as a REAL point of reference. Keep in mind that my normal routine is to use the trike & immediately charge it & that most trips are only a few miles. However, I have some trips that would be 10 miles round trip, bridges have to be crossed & the like so I need to make thes test for base lines to work from.

Does anybody KNOW the safe discharged voltage for a SLA battery?---It would REALLY HELP!

I found, through good advice, the safe discharge level for SLA batteries to be 24.35 volts so that gives me a range of approx. 35 miles at 10.5 MPH & crossing 4 draw bridge spans (steep hills) & approx 50 miles w/ out the bridges. One of my normal trips will be crossing two bridges on the way out & two on the way back. There can be no doubt, as my tests have revealed that the key to high mileage is using the lowest gear possible to attain the desired speed while keeping the throttle wide open. 2nd gear yields 8.5 MPH while 4th yields 10.5 MPH. I find 10.5 MPH to 12.5 MPH to be comfortable speeds for long range trips & I sometimes go about 15 MPH for short trips.

I have ordered a WATT's-UP meter along with Anderson Power-pole connectors in order to better manage my batteries. I thought about getting a cycle annalist but I do not think I need all the information it supplies and it is near three times the cost. I will soon see if I made the right decision.

(edit) Installing the Watts-Up meter was quite a little chore. I ran 4-10 gauge primary wires from the battery box all the way to the handle bars & had to do a bunch of cutting, splicing, & soldering in that with this meter ALL power MUST flow through it so it can be measured. I bought the meter on Amazon & they had some small Anderson Power Pole connectors so I bought two sets but could not use them---they were extremely hard to crimp & solder & I could not make them work so I abandoned them---there is no room on the handle bar for the connectors anyway. The meter flashes a rotating display about 2 seconds apart including but not limited to amphrs & voltage which are most important to me. I have a 66 amphr 24 volt battery set so it displays the amphrs used so if I want to use only 25% of batteries before recharge I just watch the meter for 25% of 66 amphrs. Basically I get more info than I need for about $50.00 whereas the Cycle Annalist is about $150.00 & displays more info than I need. I believe the Cycle annalist is easier to wire though but you still have to wire it.

This build thread is absolutely wonderful. I just placed an order for my red Gomier trike today. Can't wait to get it and start riding. How is the build quality?

Rick Stewart

Thanks for the compliment on the thread. You can expect 10 to 14 day shipping--via UPS w/ NO tracking number. You essentially get NO INSTRUCTIONS. The biggest job is attaching the rear half to the front half, moving your shifter to the left hand side & installing your brakes. It takes about 4 hours or so to build it. The bike is high quality including paint. I don't know what you are doing for your motor kit but if you go with CYCLONE TW you need to make arrangements through email to make sure they include e-brakes when they ship your kit.

Oh, I didn't know the trike was to be monkey-powered!!!heheh!!--could not resist. Yes, you deduced correctly---the throttle needs to be on the right & shifter on the left for motor-powered-trike.