E+ Electric Bike Master Controller Re-set

Thanks for the reply. I want to make sure I understand you correctly. For clarity, I am going to refer to the individual D batteries as "cells" and the packs of 5 cells as modules. Here is a picture of the hub with each of the cells numbered going from the + connection on the circuit board to the - connection.

If I have it right, I want to disconnect the string of modules from the circuit board at cells 1 and 30, and then connect the charger directly to those same cells. I don't quite follow where to connect the third (blue) wire from the charger. I think you are suggesting to connect it through a resistor to the negative side of cell 30; is that right?
I should note that this hub is from a bike that I bought off eBay as a backup for my primary E+ bike. So, I have a complete second system that is working properly.

As far as uploading pictures to this site, it looks like they store each user's pictures in their own folder. When you click the first "Browse" button, it takes you to that folder. Click the "Upload" button on that screen, and you should see another "Browse" button that will let you find pictures on your local machine, which will then upload to the server, where you can select them for your post.

That is correct.
You want to disconnect cells number 1 and 30, because 1 is connected to PLUS and 30 is connected to MINUS.
Yes charger's Minus and Plus wires right to the cell#1 /plus/ and cell #30 /minus,.
third thin wire coming out of charger is a sense wire which should be connected according to my pictures.
this thin wire should be connected to terminal MINUS of cell #5 through 200-300 ohm resistor, I measured 270 ohms on my potentiometer.
My concern is if the charger is going to start on such low battery voltage.

here is even more reading on EPLUS including my posts about converting EPLUS to Lithium.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/714452-My-E-review

Thanks. I'll let you know what happens, although it may be a few days until I have time to work on it.

I have been following your lithium conversion with interest. I will have some questions for you about that as well.

Here are some notes on my progress so far. When I hooked the isolated battery assembly to the charger with the pot on the blue wire, the charger showed the blinking red LED temperature fault. It didn't matter where I set the pot, which went to 500 ohms. On a whim, I disconnected the blue wire, and the fault LED went off, but there was still 36V on the black/red wires. I left it hooked up to the battery for 15 minutes, and the voltage on the entire battery set came up to about 25V. I thought this might be enough to get things going, so I reassembled the hub and hooked up the charger normally. It went through the motions of charging, but when I checked the voltage on the battery the next day, it was down to 10V. I then reconnected the charger directly to the cell assembly and let it run for about an hour. Unfortunately, I did something that killed my old multimeter, and I don't know how charged the batteries got. However, when I connected the display/controller directly to the hub, it was able to turn on and showed the battery as about 75% charged. So, I reassembled the hub and connected the charger normally again. The controller/display showed charging as taking place, and indicated a full charge when the charger went off. Next I connected the hub back up to the bike harness. Now the controller no longer will come on at all, whether connected to the harness on the bike or directly to the hub. I'm going to pick up another multimeter tomorrow.

Here are some notes on my progress so far. When I hooked the isolated battery assembly to the charger with the pot on the blue wire, the charger showed the blinking red LED temperature fault. It didn't matter where I set the pot, which went to 500 ohms. On a whim, I disconnected the blue wire, and the fault LED went off, but there was still 36V on the black/red wires. I left it hooked up to the battery for 15 minutes, and the voltage on the entire battery set came up to about 25V. I thought this might be enough to get things going, so I reassembled the hub and hooked up the charger normally. It went through the motions of charging, but when I checked the voltage on the battery the next day, it was down to 10V. I then reconnected the charger directly to the cell assembly and let it run for about an hour. Unfortunately, I did something that killed my old multimeter, and I don't know how charged the batteries got. However, when I connected the display/controller directly to the hub, it was able to turn on and showed the battery as about 75% charged. So, I reassembled the hub and connected the charger normally again. The controller/display showed charging as taking place, and indicated a full charge when the charger went off. Next I connected the hub back up to the bike harness. Now the controller no longer will come on at all, whether connected to the harness on the bike or directly to the hub. I'm going to pick up another multimeter tomorrow.

The battery assembly is reading 41.5V. I double checked the controller/display and it still shows no signs of life.

The battery assembly is reading 41.5V. I double checked the controller/display and it still shows no signs of life.

yes,
charger couldn't start volage of first PLUS group was near zero for sure.
How did you connect display/controller "directly" to the hub, why?

I know what might be problem with your Eplus.
I forgot to write you how to reconnect string of 30 cells back to electronics.
I had situations like you describded when I reconnected string to battery electronics and had blank screen after pressing power button.
I traced problem to the way how I was connecting ring connector to electronics.
It is important that you connect in one step, meaning no "bouncing back" with spark visable.
You press connector against terminal and hold it , insert Allen screw and tight it, DO NOT allow it to get loose contact with terminal before you tighten Allen screw.
Everytime you disconnect string of 30 cells PIC16 chip which govern all battery electronics loose power and when you reconnect PIC16 resets.
Now magine if you have such bouncing on terminal - PIC cannot properly initialize.
Can such inductive bouncing destroy electronics, possible.
I had several instances that display/controller would not react on power button pressing.
Please, be carefull, wrap Allen wrench with el. tape.

I was trying not to bounce the connection as it was made, but I'm not sure how successful I was. I actually was using jumpers rather than trying to install the screws since I have grown weary of assembling and disassembling the hub. I connected the controller/display directly to the small connector on the hub as another user reports success in recovering from problems using this technique.

This evening I tried connecting the suspect controller/display directly to the hub of my other, properly working E+ bike. Still no life. I am considering connecting my problem battery to the good bike, but I am concerned about spreading the damage some more. My good bike is my primary transportation and I really don't want to mess it up.

Do not connect string of 30 to other Eplus, if it reads 40-41V it is fully charged , I mean string itself.
Battery electronics makes handshake with display/controller and only one with proper electroinc ID will work on your bike.
I never directly connect disp/ctr to the hub, for the eplus to work all components must make handshake with each other on power up.
Make sure ter is no bouncing, try several times , give it some minutes between tries.

Battery electronics makes handshake with display/controller and only one with proper electroinc ID will work on your bike.

My understanding is that the display/controller is matched to the motor, but that the battery hubs are interchangeable. No?

CORRECTION
What I WROTE above is not correct,
your disply/controller will make handshake with any hub electronics.
I was thinking disply/controller has ID specific to motor.
So you are correct trying your hub on different EPLUS.

Yesterday I tried connecting the new battery to my original, working, bike. I did not take it for a ride, but everything came on and seemed to work normally. It looks like the battery is now ok, but now something is wrong with my new display/controller, which would also render the motor useless if I can't fix it.