Installing LEDs in the Vectrix spotlight

I think it is this kit: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Kit-VEGA-G2-1-ampoule-FULL-LED-CREE-COB-360-5000K-1800-lm-Moto-Phare-H4-6000K-/191097274359?

Nice - do you get the bulb out warning with these like you would with HID?

There are a heap of versions of these around, would probably prefer one with a larger heatsink like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-DC12-24V-H4-H-L-High-Low-60W-6000K-4000LM-Car-CREE-LED-Headlight-Lamp-Bulb-/271429113706?pt=AU_C...

Decent looking beam pattern as well.

I too have installed a 35 watt led h4 bulb and are very happy with it I had to change the retaining clip as the body of the lamp is larger as mine has a little fan in the back of it
I tried to take a short video showing no load recorded on my ca but it seems to have the wrong file extension so will not up load?
I purchased this kit on eBay ... It has two bulbs in the kit

I still have the green warning light on the instrument panel flashing

es. I get bulb out warning. Green led is flashing on dashboard

DIY ICM 1708 firmware solves the green led flashing issue.

Where can I get this software for the flashing light problem?

Where can I get this software for the flashing light problem?

From me, check your inbox

So, ,if I understand, if I install this item I will have a flashing light problem? (My Vectrix is a Vx1 Nimh 2011)

thanks

If I understand, buying this item I will have flashing light? I have a vx1 nimh 2011.

thanks for the firmware Matt I installed it but the green light still flashes? Maybe it was designed for hid lamps? Anyway another unexpected changed occurred ... when you press the horn button now you get the loud sound straight up no more delay before full noise

I wonder if it is worth trying some resistors across the lowbeam bulb connector - the majority of these claim 25W (2A) rather than the 35W (2.9A) - 900ma @ 12V - R = 12/0.9 = 13.33 ohms.

12ohm and 15ohm are common values, I'd try the 15R version, in a 20W metal clad wirewound package that can be heatsinked to the chassis (or for quick and dirty testing, 4 15R 5W versions wired 2 series, 2 parallel).

Might be worth a try to cancel the bulb out indicator.

Hey, Matt,

Is the 'DIY ICM 1708' firmware compatible with the Runke charger (and my 40Ah Sinopoly Li upgrade)? If so, can I have a copy too, please?

Maybe it was designed for hid lamps?

yes, for HID, I thought it would solve LED flashing issue...

Anyway another unexpected changed occurred ... when you press the horn button now you get the loud sound straight up no more delay before full noise

other features:
press hi-beam button+ left brake lever + turn left or right: this activates hazard lights
press hi-beam constantly until you hear one beep. This freezes the throttle, ideal for cruising. pressing any brake lever unfrezes it.
many thanks to Giulio for sharing the program.

Maybe it was designed for hid lamps?

yes, for HID, I thought it would solve LED flashing issue...

Anyway another unexpected changed occurred ... when you press the horn button now you get the loud sound straight up no more delay before full noise

other features:
press hi-beam button+ left brake lever + turn left or right: this activates hazard lights
press hi-beam constantly until you hear one beep. This freezes the throttle, ideal for cruising. pressing any brake lever unfrezes it.
many thanks to Giulio for sharing the program.

I, too, have a Runke charger and would like to have this file if it is compatible.

I have a Runke charger too on my Vx1 nimh 2011. Is it possible to send me this file? Thanks.

Is it possible to send me this file? Thanks.

http://www.voltforum.cat
Register
About the verification code, these items are spelt in catalan language, spam robots don't get them (neither english people, try hard (sorry!)
sample: ena hics vbaixa ah de ema ak wdoble zero = nxvadmhW0.

Look for a folder called Privat, only avaiable to registered users. look for the post you need, download the ICM file, enjoy.

Thank you very much, Roger! These should help a lot!!

Is it possible to send me this file? Thanks.

http://www.voltforum.cat
Register
About the verification code, these items are spelt in catalan language, spam robots don't get them (neither english people, try hard (sorry!)
sample: ena hics vbaixa ah de ema ak wdoble zero = nxvadmhW0.

Look for a folder called Privat, only avaiable to registered users. look for the post you need, download the ICM file, enjoy.

I can´t pass verification code...

Just Send me an e-mail. I'll work out something for you.

Done. Thanks.

I tried the cruise control function out the other day on the way home and found out how it performs. After setting the speed eg. Going uphill at 10 degree incline pulling 50 amps at 50 kph as you near the top of the hill and it starts to level off the speed starts to increase? It's like you have set the throttle to a fixed position or you have set the load to 50 amps. Another unexpected thing that happened was as the speed increased to around 75 kph the cruise control disengaged it wasn't because the program turned it off It was due to the left brake lever bringing on the stop light circuit which is something that has been mentioned on previous posts where the plunger on the brake light switch becomes worn to the point where the faster you go the more often the rear brake flicks on So the cruise control picks this up

I thought I would try one of these LED headlamp bulbs as well - VERY impressive light output - high beam is a bit meh though.

The flashing bulb 'out' indicator can be fixed (at least on the version I have - I bought the Jaycar version) by putting a 12 Ohm resistor across the low beam wires. This needs to be a 20W unit, metal clad preferably, and cable-tied to something that can dissipate heat (like the chassis).

This one is a little unusual, since when it starts, the 'ballast' deliberately draws 24W and then settles down to 12W (on low beam). On high beam - its 24W.

OK - I can confirm that putting at least 30 Ohms or less between the high and low beam wires and the ground cancels the flashing green/blue headlamp on the dash (which was SERIOUSLY annoying).

I used 4 resistors (two 18 Ohm 10W and two 15 Ohm 10W on a heatsink) - the heatsink is major overkill, but I had it when I was testing with lower value resistors that dissipated more heat - if you used a 32 Ohm 10W resistor you could use something half the size.

The 18Ohm and 15 Ohm resistor were put in series, and another pair was used for the high beam (may as well do it right).

The version of the LED headlamp Kit I used looked identical to the one in the first post, so it should work on any of these.

And the reason why the highbeam sucks? Both LED's are being driven with 6W each (total power draw on low beam 12W, total draw on highbeam - 12W!) - Derp! 25W is just marketing spin guys... Its 25W for 1 second, and then drops to 12W. The quick spike + resistor is enough to satisfy the Vectrix's BCM that there is actually a bulb there.

The heatsink is double-sided taped to the top of the BCM. The heat from this resistor combination is pretty low, so no problems there.

What sense is there in replacing an incandescent bulb with LED, while disspiating basically the same amount of power through a battery of resistors and a heat sink? AND suffering worse high beam performance? Wouldn't it be better to just keep the original bulb then?

Well, it's 4.3w dissipated in the resistors, and 12W for the LED - so it uses less power from the stock dc:dc converter.

The light output on low beam compared to the stock halogen is like going from a torch to sunlight. Massive upgrade.

I find I don't really use high beam anyway, but there are plenty of good 10w compact LED driving lights that can soak up an extra 10W for better performance using the same power.

Ah OK, so overall power draw IS lower than the original, AND the bike's electonics can be pacified sufficiently despite the lower power draw to stop warning of a blown light :-)

The improved low beam is of course a big plus!

Got the cree LED headlight installed this afternoon. Took some pictures that are basically worthless so I'll have to try again later. The LED bulb is definitely less than impressive. I may be retarded but I don't notice any better light throw than the PIAA Star White bulb I had installed. The light color is definitely more blue, but not so blue as to make me feel like a ricer. The only real advantage of the LED is that the low beam stays on with the high which is not true of a standard bulb unless you use the passing switch. The high beam alone on this bike is aimed a bit high for my taste. I'll leave the LED in for a bit since I only got in one short ride but at this point it's not something I would run around recommending.

That is discouraging, I just pulled the trigger on one of the LED bulbs. I did notice there was a lot of variation in the specs on the bulbs on ebay, some with almost the same output as the stock lamp, others much higher. There was varation in the light color temperature as well.
I had bought a super white higher output standard bulb (50 for 35 watts) and really thought it was less usable light.
Mine should be here today and I will see if it is an improvement.

I got the new bulb and couldn't believe the size difference. It was kind of a pain to get the spring retainer on the new bulb with the heatsink, also I left off the rubber boot so the lamp would stay cooler.
I bought the "error free" lamp, but the lamps on the dash flash anyway. I tried resistance and things went downhill, light wouldn't toggle from low to high etc. I will live with the flashing lights or try some software changes if I can't get used to it.

A comparison of the light output.

It looks a lot better than the old dim bulb.