So thanks to all the great info on this forum, I successfully changed out the main fuse on my Vectrix yesterday morning. Thankfully, this wasn't an emergency swap-out, but one that I did pro-actively since I had heard so many bad stories about the original 125A main fuse blowing. Having arrived at 4,000 miles, I figured now would be as good a time as any to do the swap out, especially as I had the day off owing to Veteran's Day here in the States (Remembrance Day, Armistice Day, etc. elsewhere). In place of the weak-link fuse went a 175A fuse picked up from ebay for a few bucks (listed as new and seems to work great so far; hopefully I don't come to regret that decision..). Just a few thoughts:
- Without the benefit of a center stand, getting the scoot set up for surgery can take a little while. Finding the main battery tray too weak and unstable to jack from, I found the rear swing arm works much better. Once up in the air, I found a 1-gallon paint can under the battery box works great as a stable work platform. Not as rustic as the cinder block method, but I just didn't have any cinder blocks handy...
- Why did they make the blower lid such a pain in the @$$ to take off??
- That rear battery is darn heavy! My improvised "curtain rod bracket and metal file" handle certainly didn't help the situation, but once unplugged, it wasn't quite as bad as I had thought to get the battery out.
- Are you spotting a trend in frugality here? Atleast I didn't skimp on the safety gear; new Class 0 gloves, properly wrapped tools and safety glasses on this one! Though I didn't have any "uh oh" moments on this project, I've had enough 12V "fun" to not want to learn what 120V could do to a person...
- Opting for the "alternate" reconnection method, I connected the Anderson connector first and then put the ICL (a 15W 120V bulb) in between the negative post & cable as I reconnected them. Not being able to figure out how to attach to the female threaded post on the battery, I simply alligator clipped on to the cross-battery connector at the other end of the battery, netting me nearly the same effect. There was no spark that I saw from the minor voltage difference between the two ends of the battery, and everything seemed to work as previously described (bulb dark after the quickest flash of initial light, only fully lighting up as the key was turned "on", then dimming as the key was turned "off"). What was interesting to watch was how the bulb modulated in intensity, I'm assuming as various parts of the scoot's electronics were powered on during the start-up sequence.
Overall, a very successful project even if it did take me ~5 hours from first setting foot in the garage to having the last tool put away. Though I was very hesitant about cracking into the guts of the bike, I'm very glad I did as I now have atleast somewhat of an understanding of how it all pieces together in there. Hopefully I won't have to repeat this process any time soon, but now that I've seen the belly of the beast, I'm sure it would go twice as fast next time around... A quick test-ride around the neighborhood today indicates everything's in working order so now it's time to ride!
a fuse swap now takes me around 2.5 hours, assuming I don't stuff something up.
definately gets faster with practice
Matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
Where is the 'walk-through' for this procedure?
New here - incase you haven't noticed. First electric vehicle but have had perhaps 20 ICE motorcycles.
To get at the main fuse, you have to remove the front seat, the step pads, a couple of trim panels, the step-through cover, the battery box lid w/ blower (also located in the step-through area) and the rear battery (essentially the one directly under the front seat). As others have noted, it may at first seem possible to replace the fuse without pulling the rear battery, but yanking it out is well worth the effort.
Has anyone completed a detailed 'walk-through' with pictures at all? A tutorial almost?
If not, I'm happy to create one once I get in there. But, if it's already been done - no need for two copies.
You could add some text to the slide show and photos here: http://visforvoltage.org/book/ev-collaborative-hand-books/7099
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
ANybody knows if the NEWEST vectrix have the Fuse in a different, more accessible place?
I heard they moved the fuse to the front of the battery box. But have not seen it myself.
Once you go EV, Gas is history!
What reason did you have when you turned the key on as quoted above ? I'm assuming that this was done before the main negative battery cable connection was made or when the ICL only was connected. If this is correct then I'm surprised anything turned on considering that the headlight alone uses 50 watts of power.
To be honest, I might not have needed to take this step as my ICL did ever-so-briefly light up when I jumpered it between the negative post and the negative cable. I believe others have done the key-cycling routine as their ICL did not seem to illuminate until the key was cycled; I took the same measure just to be thorough.
Oops! Guess it helps if I read posts a bit better before I start to reply.. I had mistaken this line as reading "where is the walk-through in this procedure", hence my response in regards to the step through. :-\
When followed in order, Mik's photos are a great help. In general, it's simply a matter of removing all the screws that hinder your access to the battery compartment with the tricky bit being the trim panels which are hiding a couple of screws (one on either side) directly alongside the passenger footrests. Besides that, removal of the seat and front foot rests should allow you to see all screws as you work your way inwards.
how to chang the Vectrix fuse
This link should help.
Greetings Mike
Thank you!
Andrew.