So thanks to all the great info on this forum, I successfully changed out the main fuse on my Vectrix yesterday morning. Thankfully, this wasn't an emergency swap-out, but one that I did pro-actively since I had heard so many bad stories about the original 125A main fuse blowing. Having arrived at 4,000 miles, I figured now would be as good a time as any to do the swap out, especially as I had the day off owing to Veteran's Day here in the States (Remembrance Day, Armistice Day, etc. elsewhere). In place of the weak-link fuse went a 175A fuse picked up from ebay for a few bucks (listed as new and seems to work great so far; hopefully I don't come to regret that decision..). Just a few thoughts:
- Without the benefit of a center stand, getting the scoot set up for surgery can take a little while. Finding the main battery tray too weak and unstable to jack from, I found the rear swing arm works much better. Once up in the air, I found a 1-gallon paint can under the battery box works great as a stable work platform. Not as rustic as the cinder block method, but I just didn't have any cinder blocks handy...
- Why did they make the blower lid such a pain in the @$$ to take off??
- That rear battery is darn heavy! My improvised "curtain rod bracket and metal file" handle certainly didn't help the situation, but once unplugged, it wasn't quite as bad as I had thought to get the battery out.
- Are you spotting a trend in frugality here? Atleast I didn't skimp on the safety gear; new Class 0 gloves, properly wrapped tools and safety glasses on this one! Though I didn't have any "uh oh" moments on this project, I've had enough 12V "fun" to not want to learn what 120V could do to a person...
- Opting for the "alternate" reconnection method, I connected the Anderson connector first and then put the ICL (a 15W 120V bulb) in between the negative post & cable as I reconnected them. Not being able to figure out how to attach to the female threaded post on the battery, I simply alligator clipped on to the cross-battery connector at the other end of the battery, netting me nearly the same effect. There was no spark that I saw from the minor voltage difference between the two ends of the battery, and everything seemed to work as previously described (bulb dark after the quickest flash of initial light, only fully lighting up as the key was turned "on", then dimming as the key was turned "off"). What was interesting to watch was how the bulb modulated in intensity, I'm assuming as various parts of the scoot's electronics were powered on during the start-up sequence.
Overall, a very successful project even if it did take me ~5 hours from first setting foot in the garage to having the last tool put away. Though I was very hesitant about cracking into the guts of the bike, I'm very glad I did as I now have atleast somewhat of an understanding of how it all pieces together in there. Hopefully I won't have to repeat this process any time soon, but now that I've seen the belly of the beast, I'm sure it would go twice as fast next time around... A quick test-ride around the neighborhood today indicates everything's in working order so now it's time to ride!