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It seems I remember reading somewhere that the Li batteries are much more efficient at accepting a charge, at least in the warmer climate where I live. I dont recall the numbers but I was under the distinct impression there was 10%-20% better charging efficiency.
Does the ESD charger put in 32 amps max or what it thinks would be 32 amps into NiMh batteries for a given temp?
LiFePO4 coulomb efficiency is 100% (nimh is between 60% and 90% depending upon temp and SOC)
or put another way, when I used a nimh battery (with no bad cells) my average energy usage was 130wh/km in summer and 100wh/km in winter
on lithium it fell to 75 - 80wh/km year round
there are several limits for the nimh firmware:
32Ah during CP stage
max temp 50 deg C (IIRC)
max voltage depending upon temp (148v - 156v) (again IIRC)
if the ESD charger reaches any limit other than the 32Ah limit, it shuts down until it is out of limit (so if overtemp, waits till the temp falls, if over voltage, waits for the voltage to fall).
depending upon version of firmware, if the voltage limit is reached repeatedly, the charger shuts down and resets the fuel gauge to full
the 32Ah limit is based around the fuel gauge
so if when you put the bike on charge the charger thinks there is already 16Ah in the battery, the charger will only put in 16Ah.
the drift between the actual battery state of charge and what the charger thinks is generally the cause of many problems.
The ESD charger can have new firmware loaded, a few people have created new versions depending upon what you are after
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
70AH - way cool! I'm looking forward to seeing the completed bike - does the central cover still fit over all of the batteries?
I'm using my original charger to charge my 50AH pack. I use a timer so that the charger isn't working while not charging. I'm also using The Laird's firmware to exceed the 32AH limit - the pack charges fully each time. The Laird's firmware has a lower amperage final balancing protocol, to reduce the stress that occurs at the end of the charge. I installed the new firmware after converting to the lithium 50AH battery pack, but rode it for a month or so with the original firmware. It was very frustrating knowing that I had a 50AH "tank" that was only 64% full. The investment of the CAN-BUS cable was worth it - and The Laird provided the firmware for free.
The Cycle Analyst was very easy to install - one of the more simple steps in the conversion process.
The advancement in kWh capacity since the beginning is amazing:
32AH = 4 kWh
50AH = 6.25 kWh
70AH = 8.75 kWh
Keep pushing the envelope Matt!
What are the symptoms of a worn head bearing?
Two things come to mind:
1. noticable play
2. jerky feeling when turning the handlebar
1. is solvable by carefully tightening the head bearings. Not too hard so the handelbars still turn lightly, but also no play in the front fork. It can be very tedious work...
2. is a truly worn and thus damaged head bearing: When the front wheel hits very hard bumps or you tailgate into something with your front wheel some of the bearing balls can get kinks (flat spots) that then cause jerky handlebar turning and could eventually, if not taken care of, even lock up your handlebars. The bearing cage can also break into pieces, with the same, albeit more severe, consequences. What that means when you are riding I think I do not need to elaborate, it can be cause of great injury or death :-(
Such bearings must be replaced with new ones.
My rides:
2017 Zero S ZF6.5 11kW, erider Thunder 5kW
I replaced the head bearings of my VX1 after 40.000 kilometres
It was noticeable in turning into corners.
You can easily check the state of your head bearings by jacking up the front such that the front wheel is off the ground.
Then slowly turn the handlebars left and right. If you feel there is a "dent" in the centre position then you need to replace them.
I had it done when my bike was at the dealer after the 200 amp fuse had blown. He told me it was quite a nasty job because there is a lot of stuff to disassemble before the bearings can be replaced.
Afterwards the bike turned in great again and I should have done it before.
But now I have the feeling that the rear of the bike is becoming less solid. This time I suspect the rubber mounting bushes. But because I am not sure if I am going to keep the bike I will probably not bother to replace them.
Once you go EV, Gas is history!
The 70Ah bike has been in service for 18 months now, and clocked up 25'000km
the original plastic covers don't fit
I will try and find a picture of the bike in ride able condition, I must have one somewhere
unfortunately CALB no longer make the 70Ah cells
the good news is the new 60Ah cells are in the right shape that you *can* fit them under the original plastic, which makes doing a conversion much cheaper, neater and easier
Matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
Hi Anti
I am kinda late into the conversion but need your expert advice:
I am looking to convert to the 40ah lifepo4 cells but im confused about the voltage?
a. Where in the US/online can I find these cells?
b. what voltage?
c. do you still sell this kit and is there a significant price drop is so send me your website?
d. Are there dealers in the us who still do the conversion to lithium?
e. Any cheaper alternative in your expert opinion?
If possible please email me a themanfromcrypton [at] gmail.com
Thanks,
jeff
Jeff, I hope to finish reassembling my bike today following its Li conversion. Once I'm done I'll write it up; with the YouTube videos from Antiscab it's definitely within the abilities of a semi-competent amateur (ie me!).
For my cells I approached ten or so potential suppliers. Some replied, some didn't. I ended up using CALB 40ah cells from this guy: http://www.evtradinpost.com/item/1061
Cheers
James
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