PENETROX, NOALOX, anti corrosion paste. GOOD IDEA OR...????

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racermike39's picture
Joined: 11/15/2007
Points: 127

I am ready to wire my electric motorcycle, and I was hoping to use an anti-corrosive paste on my crimp connections and battery connections.

I am NOT soldering my lugs on the cables, so please refrain from posting about why or why not I should solder my connections. Thanks in advance. ;)

I thought it was just going to be a quick trip to the electrical supply store, pick the paste up, and crimp & heat shrink away. Upon researching I found several options. Penetrox is a paste with zinc particles in it, but they offer 4 types.
Noalox is a similar product.

The manufacturers lists the application as being for aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to copper connections.

Penetrox also has a copper only product.

Almost all the Noalox product information is pertaining to aluminum connections.

Should I use is at all? Is there a better product? Will this product add resistance?

Any input would be appreciated.



5 years ago I met Jesus and he total ruined my life. I have never been happier.

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Joined: 03/10/2008
Points: 340
Re: PENETROX, NOALOX, anti corrosion paste. GOOD IDEA OR...????


RacerMike , OK pentrox and onalox are both ul approved antioxidation products , they are listed for aluminum because aluminum oxide is nonconductive . the zinc powder is there as a sacrificial metal , any ionic electrolices will degrade the zinc instead of the al or cu . there is NO increase in resistance using eather product yhey just keep o2 and h2o from getting to the contacts I hope this answers your Questions May HE watch over you as you pass threw this life Later


thank GOD I wake up above ground !!!!

andrew's picture
Joined: 11/28/2006
Points: 1361
Re: PENETROX, NOALOX, anti corrosion paste. GOOD IDEA OR...????

I used heat-shrink with adhesive lining from . I didn't use any anti corrosion compound which probably would have been a good idea. However, both the cable and lugs I used from EVsource are tinned to prevent corrosion. Here's from "Convert It" by Mike Brown p.98 (and I'll add my comments):


First, use a box razor knife to strip 5/8" of insulation from the end of the cable. Be careful not to cut the copper strands inside.

What I did was not cut down all the way to the wire, but just far enough to where I could tear the remaining insulation. This worked well to prevent wire damage.


Next, fill the lug half full with an anti-corrosion compound such as Noalox, or Cual-Aid. These compounds were developed when aluminum wiring was popular in homes, to prevent corrosion where the dissimilar metals met in copper/aluminum connections. It works very well for our application as well.

Carefully slide the bare copper into the lug, and wipe off any excessive anti-corrosion compound that oozes out. Place the crimper on a hard, flat, stable surface. Put the lug in the crimper, with the flat side down and the thick part centered under the punch. Strike the top of the punch with a hammer until the punch doesn't move any more.

I crimped my lugs in multiple places, repositioning and re-hammering the hammer crimper. So far, they've all worked great. I was sure to test them all by pulling as hard as I could.


The final step is to slide a 1 1/2" piece of 1" diameter shrink tube over the lug and center it on the lug/cable joint. Shrink the tube into place with a heat gun

As I said above, I used adhesive lined heat shrink from EV source. They have guidelines for heatshrink size to cable size at bottom of this page:
EV Source - Heat Shrink Tubing

Anyway, Mike Brown continues on about high-power wiring. I don't want to copy more due to copyright issues. I think it's a great book.

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