Something I found yesterday was that if I have the handlebar power switch in the off position when I turn the bike on and then pull and hold the rear-brake, I get what appears to be a throttle calibration indicator on the speedo.
It is in the neutral position at around 40km/h and if you then roll the throttle forward or back you can see the range of movement the throttle is calibrated to - I guess...
Any better info on this?
-Avron
You are correct, and yours is set right.
The adjustment is inside the right handlebar, behind the silver dampener end piece, which screws out. Don't mess with it if it ain't broke! :-)
The calibration procedure is described by some newbie with a serious omission in this post:
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/2206-vectrix-owners-new-amp-prospective#comment-11891
I found it by searching the terms "Vectrix throttle calibration" in Visforvoltage, top right corner of the screen. Try it, you can find tons of information in "old" threads that way.
Here is an updated version of the throttle calibration procedure:
1)The "throttle" was sticky, it did not return to the neutral position after being turned backwards to accelerate. This was easily fixed by unscrewing the metal knob at the end of the throttle, loosening the tiny setting screw inside the calibration screw, and then loosening the calibration screw anti-clockwise by 360 degrees.
After that the throttle needs to be calibrated like this:
A) turn Vectrix on.
B) turn kill switch on right handlebar to off.
C) pull left brake lever - speedo will show 43kmh if calibration is correct; pulling the right brake lever whilst the left brake lever is already pulled will make the speedo show the correct calibration of 43kmh irrespective of the actual calibration.
D) adjust calibration by turning the calibration screw in or out in small increments until speedo shows 43 when left brake is being pulled; it will then continue to show 43 when the right brake lever is also pressed.
E) tighten the tiny setting screw inside the calibration screw.
F) replace the silver knob.
This should usually be done by a Vectrix service agent, if you have one handy....
I never tried pulling and pushing the throttle whilst the left brake lever is pulled, your guess is as good as mine regarding this. But it is probably just that the throttle rotates the calibration screw inside it when you move the throttle. I doubt it gives you any useful information to do this, but am not 100% sure.
What is the range on the speedo that it shows when you do this? I cannot try it out because the batteries are still out of the Vectux, being tested and reconditioned.
The calibration screw probably contains a magnet which is being rotated past hall effect sensors inside the throttle.
ALL OF THIS IS SOFTWARE DEPENDENT AND COULD HAVE BEEN CHANGED TO DIFFERENT DEFAULT VALUES!!!
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
hi all,
the past few weeks, I had a problem.
When I used regen brake, the bike often stopped working.
the "GO" symbol dissapeared, so I had to stop, and reset (so I thought, at the time).
I was working my brain to find a possible solution, but I was looking in the wrong direction: I thought of a faulty charger/MC (could perhaps not handle the incoming power from regen), and the encoder disk (a small offset could perhaps do something like that?)..
But I couldn't possibly work on them (yet : warranty and ignorance issues), so I was a bit unhappy. Feared the possibility that I had to bring the bike to the dealer (and miss it for a few weeks... again).
I was about to ask you guys for an opinion, but I saw the light when I tested the problem for consistency: it only occured when I used FULL regen.
All it took was a quick throttle calibration.
I couldn't have worked that solution out myself if I wasn't reading regularly on this forum.
so thanks anyway guys ;-)
I was done in about 10 minutes, including finding/reading this post. I think this may be the easiest job you can do on the Vectrix, besides fixing the "crooked seat spring" :-)
Tested again afterwords, perfect! Also, the bike is quicker again because the max throttle was lower than normal.
In hindsight, I should have known: a week or six ago, I slipped and fell on ice at very low speed, but the bike fell right on the thottle handle.
very happy again :-)
greetz
Turok
"doing nothin = doing nothing wrong" is invalid when the subject is environment
I had a similar problem. I had the GO sign get killed at full throttle. But you can get the GO back even at speed. Just pull left and right brake handles and it comes back. In my case the throttle handle needed to be replaced in the end.
Once you go EV, Gas is history!
I also noticed that later on, but then I was close to solving it :)
"doing nothin = doing nothing wrong" is invalid when the subject is environment
I had this very same problem, my throttle was showing slightly above 50 km/h, and I could only get READY when I applied reverse slightly. The bike also gave error and gone dead on full throttle since the sensor was presumably sending a too high value to the ECU.
I just calibrated according to your instructions and all seems to be fine now, so I just wanted to post to say THANK YOU.
jprates
I started getting yellow spanner (wrench) warning lights at switch on recently and when I eventually remembered to check the odometer reading for the associated fault code it read 'throttl' or something similar. At the same time I started noticing that the regen was coming on in the neutral throttle setting. Slightly more dramatically and possibly in no way related, on heavy regen at night when I went from dipped beam to main beam the motor cut out. As I was on a roundabout I didn't have time to check for an error code. These symptoms lead me to believe my throttle regen setting was out.
So I checked the setting, using the info above and low, I discovered it was slightly out giving about 44kph instead of the correct 43.
I did think this might have had something to do with my HID conversion. Everything that crops up I automatically assume it is connected with this fairly significant alteration but, after some thought, I have concluded it is more likely to do with the recent change of motor controller software required due to replacing the original charger with the Runke one.
Anyway, using Mik's directions I reset the billy-doo and all is well. I took some photos as I was doing it and have posted them with a re-hash of Mik's directions here... http://visforvoltage.org/book/ev-collaborative-hand-books/13441
Regards, Martin Winlow
Isle of Colonsay, Scotland
evalbum.com/2092
I have another kind problem in the throttle, I may call it angular displacement. Despite the nail is perfectly calibrated at 42 (I prefer 42 instead of 43), at full reverse I get only 23, and twisting full throttle the nail gets stuck over 120, and causes the system to halt. I believe this angular displacement can be solved via Software, I'll investigate a little further.