EVT Z20 arrived! Pics and impressions

I also agree with the other poster and Gushar. My only issue is when statements are not qualified as speculation and assumption. It usually starts with "could be" and then in a matter of posts we end up with "it definitely is" without any additional evidence. I appreciate and value the opinion of the "experts" on this board, dealers or not, but I think it is a stroke of indecency to bash a fledgling EV company without clearly stating that the negative commentary is conjecture. This of course is an important consideration because there are so many lurkers on this board who may just read and run.

This comment is not to any one person, but to all, past and present.

but I think it is a stroke of indecency to bash a fledgling EV company without clearly stating that the negative commentary is conjecture

Fledgling EV company ?

1- They have offered the Taiwan EVT line for years

2- For UNKNOWN reasons, they LOST the US rights to the EVT line about midway through their DEVELOPMENT of the Z, those rights were instead given to EVT WORLD and EVT A was "allowed" to be a DEALER under EVT WORLD.

3- Within weeks of their removal as the sole US distrib, the Z was SUDDENLY ready to sell

LOL

You figure it out, I did my homework on them 6 months ago

Bur I agree...
I also think it is a stroke of indecency to OFFER a product with specs that are almost non-specified and which change AFTER you order and WITHOUT notification without clearly stating that the original specs and forward looking statements were just conjecture

You must want us to reply, YOU keep bringing this stuff up, I was talking about batteries :)

Fledgling manufacturing EV Company. My mistake. I was not referring to you USATracy, you often provide substantiations for your claims. As I mentioned it was a general statement. I certainly don't want you to always respond, but I definitely expect it. Statistically speaking the chances of my comment being the last are fairly slim.

To All:

I felt I should join in as one who has had a Z-20 delivered. My R-20 is not working properly and Andy and I have talked several times on the phone. He has been willing and helpful and I do feel the company is going to do the right thing, when all this gets straightened out. Andy was thinking damage was casued in shipping; I'm not sure.

I include my observations here in hopes they might be helpful in solving the general puzzle of malfunctions

On my R-20

1) Only with the breaker circuit AND the key in the ON position am I ever able to get any indication on the battery charge light. This is different than what I understood Andy to say to me on the phone. He said I should get a quick read by simply turning the circuit breaker to the OB position (under the seat)
2) Fiddling with the kickstand I have been able to get consistent initiation of a powerful turning back wheel.
3) Initiation of a powerful turning back wheel is created by a squeeze and release of the right brake handle (that seemed odd and unsafe- and I remember someone else on this Forum mentioning that)
4) Once engaged the powered turning of the back wheel can ONLY be stopped by squeezing one of the brake handles
5) By squeezing EITHER of the brake handles I can slow or stop the powered turning of the back wheel
6) Turn of the throttle on the right handle bar can slightly speed up the turning of the back wheel
7) Top speed 15mph, no power on hills

The right brake handle controls the front brake, but it also affects the turning of the back wheel.
The left brake handle affects the turning of the back wheel.

Also, I observed that the word "UP" with the arrow on the left handle bar was upside down. This seemed odd to me, and given that I was getting haywire responses from the machine I have even wondered if left and right had gotten crossed somehow on the machine. Phto included. ( a long shot)

These are the anomalies as I see them at present.

Davy Sea

WOW,

If anyone on the East Coast like VA, PA, MD, WV ordered one of these and ends up with these issues on their bike and wants some onsite help, give me a call, well, a PM anyhow.

Now it is Don C's turn and we see if people will let him be last :)

Yuor throttle input appears to be screwed up among other issues. Have you checked for borken throttle wires ?

It also appears the throttle gain pot in these controllers may be wrong.

Seriously, did they assembly line these bikes right into the crates, did they ride them at all before signing off on them ?

There is no way this is damage from shipping.

Don C, bone up on your tech skills.

So I got my bike.

All is okay, EXCEPT, when I activate the turn signal the headlights flash. Also, when I apply the brakes it makes the bike speed up considerably. The most interesting thing, and maybe its a feature, but when I activate the horn the bike actually goes backwards. These all seem like things that are easy enough to resolve and I am confident that with all these pluses that this bike is going to make the long haul.

you can talk about repairs till the cows come home
I think i smell the ghost of ...e-max....??
people bot these because they said EVT on them
and they inferred that there was a TAIWAN connection of quality.

Gushar, you pegged it...

Also, we ALL want better products, pricing, etc., etc. and the fact that a forum like this is apparently read by those in this market (alot of them) then it helps make improvements I think in what they are importing. They know that we have sources like this to learn more than just the promotional rant they are making about their "new" product. It also puts "pressure" on them to rectify certain issues with customers.

When I post I know...

1- There are lurkers making decisions that never post

2- The thread lives forever and others will find this info one day when THEY are trying to become educated on all of this stuff.

3- Vendors now know they can't hide and must be responsive or fade away

4- Vendors will find we can see through the BS of claims vs performance and will have to proceed accordingly

5- Vendors that want to compete will have to ensure quality and be responsive to the design considerations we have identified as missing (equalizers, portable bank charger as stock instead of string, etc...)

The people that have a bike and take it all personal, need to think about this when they read the replies...

When I posted in July and August I identified numerous Caveat Emptors regarding the company, it's history, recent internal changes, previous announcements vs current, shortcomings in the ordering and deposit methods, as well as issues about the bike itself. I wont rehash it all here, but I posted all that as people were being asked to send in money, now I posted more as EVT America is saying "Please let us keep the money and take the bike even thoough you can get your money back if you prefer".

Why would anyone, other than EVTA, have a problem with that ?

If I am going to restrict my comments to the positive only, then I want a sales commission from the vendors.

And Don C., very funny, but when is your bike really due ?

It supposedly cleared customs on Tuesday but won't get on a truck until Monday at which point I will supposedly get a tracking number and a estimated delivery date. This of course is not exactly as I heard it from EVTA. They told me, that once it hit US soil it should be on a truck within 48 hours and that was when I was supposed to pay my invoice.

I said a long time ago that I understood the risk involved in purchasing the bike and I knew that there would be continued "snafus" but truly, I had no idea there would be this many. I still haven't decided whether or not EVTA knew from the beginning that they were going to put together such a crappy process and subsequently (we don't know if it applies to all bikes) a crappy product.

Perhaps once we Z-20 owners fix all the things that EVTA failed to do correctly, we might have a really great bike. This is a possibility.

Perhaps once we Z-20 owners fix all the things that EVTA failed to do correctly, we might have a really great bike. This is a possibility.

Maybe, if one is willing to take on a project instead of a bike, or, one could notify them to cancel the order and send the deposit money back. Until the truck arrives at your door and you ACCEPT the delivery it has not delivered by 12-31-2007 in which case, under the terms of the deposit agreement, you are no longer bound to take delivery of the item. An dthats the rules.

No one can MAKE one TAKE delivery.

And if one can prove that it was neither delivered, nor refused for delivery prior to 1-1-2008, then the law is most likely on their side.

Good Lord usatracy you MUST have something better to do with your time than
harass those of us that have ordered EVT bikes.

I have read many of your postings and have gathered lots of good information.
You are very knowledgeable and your insight is appreciated. This constant
bickering is below you. I, like may others, are in this for the long haul.
I do not plan on cancelling my order. I will accept the R-20 and will work
through any problems that may arise (with their help).

Call this a project, or whatever, but I am still looking forward to it.

BTW there is a delay in shipping cause EVT is inspecting each and every
scooter before it moves from the terminal in Washington.

I think they are doing the best they can given the size of their company
and limited resources.

Can't we all just get along : )

I am not bickering nor harrassing, merely ensuring that those that ordered and are now seeing what they are really going to get are well informed. You want your bike then accept the delivery, I am not posting to YOU anyhow, if you READ my posts you would know that.

I still dont know why anyone has a problem with me pointing out the contract fine print to those that have ordered. I didnt write it, EVT A did.

There are currently 5 users and 79 guests online.

One of them MAY have thought he was buying a dependable OUT OF THE BOX vehicle for daily transport and NOW wonders what the hell he is going to do, and may not be aware he can still get OUT of this if he wants to.

So making sure he knows EVERYTHING including the history of the company he is dealing with and the history of the bike, and the results as they are delivered vs the optimistic outlook of buyers awaiting delivery who may enjoy a project bike at what they percieve to be a bargain price and the non-buyers chiming in with reasons for the problems and what the future holds for upcoming deliveries that know no more than I do regarding what may be wrong here as well as the fine print of the deposit agreement contractual language, it all seems pertinent to me.

Once they accept delivery, they will be stuck with whatever they got.

If only one of them decides this was not for them because they have no skills or resources to deal with all of this, then why would you condemn someone trying to prevent that from happening to someone ?

BTW there is a delay in shipping cause EVT is inspecting each and every
scooter before it moves from the terminal in Washington.

Well, the FIRST unforeseen delay in shipping was caused by their inability to secure space on ships due to storms, Walmart and XMAS (as I predicted in October when I decided not to send money), this would be the second unforeseen delay, but, does not count because they HAD to be delivered by 12-31-2007 to the buyer, not the port, or you can request your deposit money back.

And any inspection SHOULD have happened before they were CRATED. Now you are risking getting bikes that may have had LARGE AMPS run on the batteries PRIOR to their being properly and initially charged. So, even if you get your bike in working order, the possibility that the batteries will have been damaged via EVT A's own port inspection now exists, assuming they are actually going to run them.

Of course, to do that, they would have to be disentangled from that mess of a superstructure that crated them in.

Do you think they will do that to each bike ?

Doubt it, so now that we know they will either uncrate/recrate and load test your uncharged batteries, or, what, I have no idea, maybe test a few, so it will be potluck, some will get degraded batteries and some wont.

GOOD DEAL !

What a cluster F

These guys are EVT experts ?

1- No lockout on the key warning you to charge the batts before you ride the bike (ruined batteries)

2- Did not properly test each bike prior to crating (controllers do not go bad out of box and travel one foot before dying in a PROPERLY tested bike).

3- May or may not be performing some ad hoc testing on some or all bikes with personnel that may or may not have a friggin clue what they are doing to YOUR bike.

4- They still think it is a shipping problem.

Let this be a lesson, leave the design and importation of these scooters to the people that know what they are doing. These guys never built a bike, they sold someone elses until the US distributorship got pulled from them and given to someone else, then they became a manufacturer, and it is going WONDERFUL so far :)

Gowens commets...

Hey, if I had ordered one I'd be doing every single thing I could to NOT TAKE DELIVERY! But of course that's your perogative to accept. I think USATracy is right on the money. None of us like to admit problems like this but when the writing is on the wall I'd certainly be finding a way to get my deposit back and I think folks actually should be thanking USATracy for his helpful advice and info on the contractual agreement. I know human nature is to hold out hope till the evidence builds to a max...but at some point you guys who are waiting must realize that you could have to end up spending alot of money to overcome the problems so far cropping up on these newly delivered scoots...with it looks like everyone who posted having...in some form or another...etc. These problems may simply not be remedied by parts replacement...but may be caused by design flaws and may never be totally fixed. I'm not telling anyone what to do but if I were on that waiting list and had not accepted a delivery there is no way I'd take delivery knowing what we just know at this point! Again, do what you want but sounds like you're going to end up with alot of headache and expense...even if solutions are found short of practically rebuilding the electrical systems on these scoots. Good Luck regardless!

Gushar

Here's another perspective, and for the first time in a while doesn't necessarily contradict previous posts.

So, it goes like this, all of us Z-20 buyers were told that the bike won't ship from Washington until the Invoice was paid in full. This was communicated well before any bike had arrived at a doorstep. With this in mind, I think that it is likely that most buyers, if not all, have already paid EVTA for the entirety of the bike. I don't particularly want to debate the legalities of this buying process or whether or not it makes me a dumbass that I decided to take part. The fact is that for most of us Z-20 people,EVTA already has our cash, and I would much rather just get a pile of electric parts which resemble a scooter than go through the trouble of getting my money back. I mention this because it isn't the easy choice that people are making it out to be. There are plenty of bikes out there that are actually working (usatracy potential response: "for now!") so the chances of me getting one that works is about 70%.

I'll take those odds.

Of course, to do that, they would have to be disentangled from that mess of a superstructure that crated them in.

tee hee! this is my favorite part of the whole thread...

I just received my Z20a this past week and had the same experience with the top speed. I am 185 pounds and, on flat pavement, can get the speedometer to 45-50 mph. But, when I timed it on a known distance and did the math, I was only going about 36 mph. Since I recently moved to a more rual location, the bike isn't going to work as a commuter. Has anyone received their owner's manual yet? Does it say what voltage the motor and controller are rated for? The Z20 needs 72V to get up to speed.

This is very dissapointing news for the owners, yet not a surprise to us that viewed and dissected the "Z-20 Stress Test Presentation 1" which seemed to show a bike running around 40 mph to maybe 45 mph tops (with a very short lightweight chinese test pilot on board).

With experience from the XM-2000 that uses the same frame, speedometer and tires, we knew the speedo was way off and over reporting so not to go by that for any level of accuracy.

http://visforvoltage.org/forum/2068-z-20-stress-test-presentation-1

CHEN
during 7:50 to 8:34 (Ed: in the video),it pass 50 lination in 44seconds .......it is very accurate speed....less than 50km/h when they talking about 70/h and 74/h....

If I had bought one of these, the first thing I would try since it is SUPPOSED to have better torque and acceleration than any bike in its class (XM-2000) I would order a new tire for the rear, especially since it has those cool fans on the controller. Add 5% to 10% more tire if it will fit and speeds MAY increase.

The biggest tire I could mount on the rear of the XM was the Michelin Bopper 120, it would rub the bottom back of the battery box on every bump so I had to take it off and it raised my controller temps by 20 degreees F.

A 110 should definitely fit unless they have really protruded with the batt box on the Z, but tires are cheap and may be the answer, one of the Z owners should give it a try, and put a Bopper 120 on the front, will fit and handle/ride much better.

A 110 on the rear would add about 4 to 6 % and get you closer to your speed expectations with not a lot of accel loss, controller temps could rise a few degrees over stock.

Remember, these bikes including the seats are NOT made for heavier taller Americans, I have been pointing that out for months, to no avail it seems.

The stock seat places the c/g too far forward, bad handling and bad ride and not comfortable, open the seat up and cut the foam back further and flatten the seat out. leave the point up front. You'll sit back farther, knees wont hit the key and break it off in the ignition, and you wont be sliding forward all the time on the sliding board of a seat.

I have no experience with that controller, but it more than likely has both a low and high voltage protection cutout, probably 10.2 to 10.5 per battery for low (51 to 52.5) and close to 67 to 67.5 for high voltage cutout.

If you try a 6'th battery, then when charged they could be 77.4 to 79.2 when you turn the key on, I would expect the controller to shut down at those voltages. But who knows, maybe it has a range and can take it.

Last I heard there was a question over whether these were the famouos Canadian made for EVT-A controllers (that buyers expected to get) or some Chinese controller that Mountain said EVT-A ordered 400 of. So no one knows right now where they came from.

I had considered adding a 6'th smaller half battery to the XM, and have it switched in and out based on amp load to overcome voltage drop on the mains and see if my top speed went up. Another approach to same issue.

Usatracy

I got intrigued with the idea of a larger tire's effect on speed (i went over the principle of this concept with some stduents this week, noting the speed of a wheel near the hub (distnce covered in time)and the higher speed of the wheel at its furthest point from center. Since these scooters are supposed to be negligably effected by weight (high torque), increasing the circumference should be a way to increase distance (more feet in the same number of revoltions)without increasing the number of revolutions. I measured the back wheel of my R-20 and got a circumference of about 6 feet. This comes to a little over 5, 100 feet or about 1 mph increase for every 2 inches of circumference I can add. Interesting idea to play with.

Take a piece of duct tape, wrap it around the tire, remove the tape and measure it.

A 3.50x10 will be real close to 1299.3 mm circumference or 53.25 inches with an outer diameter of 413.58 mm or 16.95 inches

When considering playing with tire sizes, increasing tire size MAY increase top speeds if the controller can handle it (the increased size), it may also decrease accel and hill climbing, conversely, decreasing tire size may increase accel and hill climbing.

HOWEVER, if you are heavy, or pulling a trailer, a SMALLER tire MAY actually give you better accel, better hills AND HIGH TOP SPEEDS, I have proven this with trailer loads while carrying passengers, thats why I run a tiny 90/90-10 on the back !!!

This is VERY motor controller dependent, fortunately tires are cheap enough that this is a pretty low cost thing to play with and then test performance to see what happens.

Aside from obvious testing such as changes to known speeds up hills and top speed, you MUST check controller and motor temps, and thats going to be a B*TCH with it mounted under the seat like the Z is :)

Sears has multimeters that come with a temp probe, so you could mount that while testing to see what effect tire changes have on controller, even if you aren't approaching temps that will shut the controller down via its internal thermal, you still dont want to run the controller warmer than you need to, it will reduce its lifespan to some degree.

For reference, here are the changes you can expect playing with tires. I use the motorcycle superstore for tires, best prices I have found. I would run Michelin, Pirelli or Bridgestone.

motorcycle-superstore.com/...

90/90-10 -2.123% under stock tire (heavy loads and trailers)
100/90-10 2.5% over stock tire
110/90-10 6.9% over stock tire
120/9-10 9.4% over stock tire
130/90-10 15.6% over stock tire

And to throw a wrench into all of your tire calculations, I run the 90/90-10 which has a measured diameter of 404 mm, I also use a digital odometer fired of the motor on the tire, it has to be set at 376 mm diameter to calibrate the bike to a one km measured course and it is still off by 13 feet per pass, need to tweek the 376 a few more digits, the odo measures XX.XXXX km or miles.

Point is, thats how much shorter the tire gets when it is loaded and running full throttle, it shrinks from 404 mm to 376 mm, the side on the road is flat and closer to the axle than when measured on the center stand and no load.

The amount of shrinkage from measured will vary by tire brand, size, inflation pressure, tempurature and load carried.

I ran the 120 on the rear, it worked, it rubbed the battery box on bumps, controller and motor got warmer by 20 degress F on an XM-2000, accel and hill climbing suffer, top speed went up about 10%. XM controller and motor are usually ambient air temps.

120 should fit on front no problem, its what we run and it is a better ride and handling. The Z is like the XM and has a 10% over report (at least) on the speedo, if it turns out to be 10% like the XM, the 120 negates most of it and corrects the odo speedo.

There is NO WAY that 130 is fitting front or rear on these bikes, not without some mods.

One other item of note, the Z appeared to have a greatly increased outer diameter motor than the XM, I had assumed that if the motor had a larger diameter, the magnets and windings would sit farther from the center of the axle providing increased leverage hence more torque. This MAY translate to a better capabiity to turn a larger tire up to the 120 size with not as much heat buildup or loss of wheel rpm as the XM does, if that were the case the top speeds would increase and the accel and hill climbing might not be as affected on the Z as they are on the XM.

If the Z really only goes 38 mph, it is theoretically possible for the 120 to get up to 40 to 41.5 mph.

Again, if the 38 mph test rider is heavy, it could go completely the other way, and a smaller tire could produce higher speeds, its all voodoo without dyno sheets and why I just went ahead ordered a lot of tires back in August :)

OK,
I just got SCHOOLED in tires via email.

100/80-10------1269.2 mm circumference
90/90-10-------1275.5 mm circ (Pulling trailer)
120/70-10------1294.3 mm circ
3.5x10 KENDA-1300.6 mm circ XM and Z STOCK tire size
110/80-10------1319.5 mm circ
100/90-10------1332 mm circ
130/70-10------1338.3 mm circ (may be too wide for rim and/or width to frame)
120/80-10------1369.7 mm circ
110/90-10------1388.6 mm circ (Made for front wheel only)
120/90-10------1445 mm (Front only, rubs on rear wheel, motor gets hot)

There is NO 110/90-10 available for the REAR wheel anywhere, except cheap China tires.

Keep in mind when doing your math, both the actual measured or mathematical circumference (circ above) are going to be MORE than you really will get when loaded and riding, for example, using the 90/90-10 tire I only get 91.5% of the ACTUAL MEASURED circumference which is within 2 mm of the mathematical circ above. This will occur on these other tires as well, how much depends on a lot of unknown variables. It is because the tire flattens on the bottom when loaded and is closer to the axle than when measured unloaded or figured mathematically from the metric tire size calcs.

Here are options for tires by brand, depending on the size you want you may have to hunt for them as not all tire sizes are avaliable from all dealers unless you special order ($$$).

Michelin S1
100/80-10 53J
90/90-10 (in stock motorcycle superstore)
110/80-10 58J
100/90-10 56J (in stock motorcycle superstore)
130/70-10

Pirelli SL-26
100/80-10 53J TL
90/90-10 (in stock motorcycle superstore)
110/80-10 58J TL
100/90-10 56J TL (in stock motorcycle superstore)

Michelin VM100
100/80-10 53L TL/TT
120/70-10 54L TL/TT REINF

Michelin VM100S
100/80-10 53L
120/70-10 REINF 54L

Michelin Pilot City
120/70-10 54L TL REINF

Pirelli SL 38 UNICO (stock on some Vespa's 2002 to 2004)
May be biggest tire that will fit
Have not found any suppliers yet listing this size
120/80-10

Bridgestone
110/90-10 ML35

Why can't you use that on the rear?

click here
But, when I timed it on a known distance and did the math, I was only going about 36 mph. Since I recently moved to a more rual location, the bike isn't going to work as a commuter. Has anyone received their owner's manual yet? Does it say what voltage the motor and controller are rated for? The Z20 needs 72V to get up to speed.

This is a possible future modification. I can't say if the controller will handle it. If you do this, make sure the DC-DC converter only taps off the 60v portion of the battery pack. And you'll need to charge the extra battery separately.

A brushless motor should handle higher voltage fine. But the higher voltage will increase the amount of current flow which may cause heating problems.

That Bridgestone should work fine on the rear, 75% of the websites I checked said FRONT ONLY if they said anything about where it goes, but I found this...

All position for 1985-1988 Honda CH250 Elite.
Front tire for 1989-1990 CH250 Elite

So it was on the rear 85-88 then it was on front only so that might be why so many websites sell it as front only now, only because thats where it has been since 89 :)

NOW AF, go find that elusive 120/80-10 (or any domestically available 120/80-10 not just alibaba listings) that supposedly was on the Vespa's, thats the one I want to order and test, I cant find it anywhere except spec sheets claiming it was from Pirelli and mounted on the Vespa rear and was a SL 38 model.

Aside from the ref to Vespa, I found a 120/80-10 racing slick, and some reference to a YAMAHA SLIDER :)

Still haven't found the 120/80-10

But if you want to have a TRACTOR PULL, then these may be the tires to put on your scooter.

80/90-10 1218.9 mm circ and 5.8% less than stock, should make your scooter a billy goat up the hills or pulling a load :)

IRC MB38 $8.85 LOL
or
IRC MB 520 $28.85

http://www.chaparral-cycle.com

On that Bridgestone, if you go back to Chapparel you can see the confusion, top of page says front and rear, bottom says front

Chaparral

And here is a Bridgstone in the 80/90 tractor pull variation, I may just buy one for the japanese anime'ish pornographic tread design :)

Bridgestone

LOL
Ok, I DID order the 80/90-10 tractor pulling anime porn tire.
And I ordered a Bridgestone 110/90-10

These are as far apart as you can get them as far as circumference goes, unless you go 120/90-10 which rubs on the bumps.

So in two weeks or so I'll post some info on what they do on the XM and how they affect speed, hills and how much of the math circumference you lose to actual loaded circumference.

If the XM can turn the 110/90-10, and I am sure it will, the 120 was almost twice the increase and it turned that, then the Z should be able to turn it too (depending on weight carried and terrain) and get a 6.8% or so increase in top speed.

So if they really are doing 38 out of the box, this should get them to 40.5 mph or within 1 mph of the XM with stock tires.

And that 120/90 could fit the Z's, someone needs to measure the distance from wheel rim to closest obstruction and then drops the shocks to the low setting and have someone sit on the back and see what it is then at the lowest setting with the swingarm bent in towards the frame.

If the 120/90-10 fits without rubbing on bumps then thats 42.2 mph if the motor and controller will turn it and stay cool.

Mountain posted earlier that the controller was not the Canadian controller but one from a company he knew and Mountain said he was told that EVTA ordered 400 controllers from the China company, dont know if that is correct or not, but the controller case has the same number of heat sink lines as the China controller, and he says the Canadian charger uses the same case as KingPan, I also have the exact same KingPan 60v charger too, and it looks very much identical to the CANADIAN charger, I mean exactly like it except I dont have a sticker on mine that says Canada :)

Mountain
I know nothing about their canadian engineer But their Canadian charger seem the same shell as my ZAPINPO charger,who come from Guangzhou Kingpan company.

This is all RE: Their much touted EVT-A custom built by North American Engineers and much researched highly efficient controller, which I think was 48 volts as research/testing was happening 14 months ago when bike was 48 volts and that was scrapped when the much experienced AVT-A team realized, what the Chinese knew for two years, you can't move 500 pounds at 45 mph on 48 volts :)

If they did go off the shelf for a controller, this is a huge change of specs as we were bombarded with info about this GREAT controller in the works for months right up to deposit time with videos of testing and they made several references to North American Engineers and high efficieny etc etc etc...

24 of 24 Bermuda Z-20s are now functional. The one dead bike had a bad controller which was replaced by EVTA in less than a week.

Where's your bike at ?

What's your plan when that cardboard box finally arrives ?