Holy smokes, 7000 watt brushless motor........ controller recommendations?

That's an RC motor. I'm not sure if it will push anything with much weight "ie.. scooter + rider". Let us know how it works out.

There is a guy running it on an e-bike at endless sphere. He hit 52MPH on a bicycle with it, the crazy guy. Biggest problem was heavy duty enough connectors--he had an electrical fire at some point. It will draw way over 100 amps pulling a load, so you need super heavy duty connectors and wiring.

I asked about what controller he was using, but I don't think he answered my question.

Look at how small that thing is on his bike in the first photo. I've got to think you will have serious overheating issues with a motor that size with that kind of power pulling a heavy load. it was designed to turn an RC airplane propeller!

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5156

Right. It could be a good buy though. I'm trying to break the 40's on my my xb 600. This could be perfect since hub motors are so expensive. It's a nice motor for 150 bucks!

The other issue is, what kind of rpm does that motor turn? Controllers can have a motor RPM range that they are designed to work within. if you go above that range, they don't work right. I know the Kelly controllers are like this, because I know someone who was having a high speed hiccup with one and a 1500 watt high speed motor.

http://visforvoltage.org/forum/3429-small-brushless-rc-motors-67-kw-peak

try this TNCSCOOTERS.com

I know TNC scooters very well, but they only sell stuff for brush motors.

Maybe you can put a big propeller on that motor and mount it in the front of the moped and get the bike to take off!

My understanding was that that hall effect had to do with magnets and brush-less motors.Any one care to educate me and about TNC stuff?

TNC is a big seller of scooter parts for Brush motor scooters. they list 24 controllers in their electric scooter parts section, but none will work with the motor this post is about.

http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES

Given that it is an RC motor, it's probably also sensorless, meaning that you will need a sensorless controller to run it. This one was the most appropriate I could find from Hobbycity.

And, yah, these things are impressive. The one that Scott over on the ES was far smaller than this (2.8kW rated), and was getting him up to over 50mph. This one could theoretically do over 70.

Something doesn't make sense to me here. How can these extremely light weight, inexpensive components, designed to make a lightweight RC airplane fly, way outperform a 20-25 pound $800 E-tec or $1000 Mars motor with a $400 -$500 controller?

My guess is that they will only last a couple of months at most moving a 200 pounds plus package of people and machine at high speeds and up hills. No one has yet put more than a few miles on an ebike or scooter to test out the durability long term.

It is amazing though what they have been capable of doing, at least short term. By the way, what kind of throttle would work with the controller in the post above? Aren't those things designed to receive a radio controlled wireless signal?

Don't look at me. Recumpence on the ES has been riding his for a while with no problems. They seem to work. They are made to handle quite a bit (14lb planes aren't easy to get into the air), so I don't see why they wouldn't last, especially if they are used conservatively. That controller I linked to is actually underpowered for that motor.

And apparently, the ESCs use a weird pulsed throttle signal, so most people are using servo testers as throttles.

The problem with the ESC controller for a plane is that it cannot slowly start the motor. It will come on fast and jerk your ride. The motor you are looking at is meant to be cooled by the "fan" of the propeller. Unless you can cool this it will not live long. Also, the bearings will probably not live long as the RC plane, being a "hobby" device, is not meant to run long. The 8000-10000rpm is very hard on bearings and they probably won't last in an EV/bike. The Alltrax AXE will not run a motor like that. If you must use these motors, try the Kelly controller for brushless motors. It may solve the start-up problems but you will still have the other issues. If you are doing something heavier than a bike like a scooter, then maybe you should look at the Etek brushless. It is robust and not too expensive.
Jeff K.

I pulled this from the link that tells what stuff you need to run an RC motor as an EV motor. You will still need to get a sprocket of some sort that will fit the motor shaft and take a pretty heavy duty chain or drive belt. You will also need heavy duty wiring and connectors, at least that can handle 100 amps, like they use on robots.

I saw these motors last year, and people were talking a lot about them at the pocket bike forum. I had some serious questions as to how they would cross over to small EV use. The guy who wrote the stuff below is the first person I know who really made the thing work, and he is also an RC expert. You can not just bolt that thing up to a bike and hook up a throttle and controller like a standard motor. I am not trying to discourage anyone from attempting to tap into what appears to be the most power per pound available on the market today in an electric motor. Just to let people know it is a pretty involved set up.

Here is what the fellow in the link above had to say about what he needed to complete the kit, besides the motor, high output batteries, sprockets, chain, and mounting hardware. He also doesn't give an exact wiring diagram as to how you hook up the ESC, motor, batteries, servo tester, and BEC.

I am interested in this set up myself, although I don't have a particular project at the moment for it to power, and that is why I am following this thread.

"Next up was the controller (ESC in RC lingo). That stands for Electronic Speed Control. In RC, the controller must be VERY small, light weight, and efficient. The controller I chose (Castle Creations HV110) weighs only 5.9 ounces and is the size of a couple match boxes stacked on top of each other. VERY small indeed! This controller is rated at 110 amps at 48 volts continuous. I have two of them in RC cars and have pushed them up to 127 amps at 48 volts without any heat buildup problems, shutdowns, nothing. They just run. Also, the controller is fully programmable via USB. Perfect!

Now, the problem with using RC equipment is the fact that these controllers are designed for use with an RC receiver. The receiver puts out a pulsed signal that RC servos and controllers recognize. This presents a problem. How do I simulate the pulse width of a receiver output to drive the controller? A little internet research netted a perfect solution, a "Servo Tester". This is a simple device that produces a variable pulse via a simple potentiometer. So, bingo, I can drive the controller without an RC receiver.

Next is another component referred to in RC terms as a BEC. This is a battery eliminator circuit designed to eliminate the need for a receiver battery in an RC vehicle. The RC controller I am using assumes there is a receiver and/or small pack to power it up. Without a receiver, I need a way to power up the controller's internal circuitry. So, I picked up (also from Castle Creations) a high voltage BEC that will do the job just fine."

Wow! If this works it could change the electric scooter market in a really good way. Keep us posted. I have a rad2go sunbird that is in non-running order that could be a rocket with one of these power motors.

Cute looking motor but the input wires seem fairly small if you are going to pump >100A through them. This seems odd (should use ~2 AWG for 100A continuous).

I am interested in these motors as well - but I think the problem we are all having is that we basically only understand straight DC - these controllers and motors are Extremely high frequency version of pulsating DC - more sophisticated than regular AC. I also think that they don't have the endurance of our heavier/bulkier DC motors, but time will only tell on that - Let's see some decent tests! I will order a setup to go on my trike in about a month or so, but am scared of frying the whole motor/controller setup ($250+) after a few runs (or even 30 runs - still not worth it!). Expensive test!

Meh, I think not. They're regular BLDC motors, the same as used on ebikes. The only substantial difference is the controller.

ebike controllers use hall sensors placed in the motor to determine the position of the magnets in relation to the windings, while R/C (sensorless) controllers use the BEMF coming out of the phases to determine position. This also means that the motor needs to be moving for the controller to figure out what to do, however, so it'll give a random kick to one of the phases to try to get the motor going and work it out from there. But, since ebikes are a lot heavier than a little car or plane, this might be causing problems in the long run. A number are using them without issue, however, so they seem to work pretty well.

well, fine by me then! I at least can understand the straight DC stuff... just thought I saw alot of references to frequency at that hobby motor website is where I got my guess from.

well, fine by me then! I at least can understand the straight DC stuff... just thought I saw alot of references to frequency at that hobby motor website is where I got my guess from.

ESCs do use higher PWM frequencies than normal ebike controllers because some of the higher-rpm motors are so fast that the usual 18kHz waveform can't control the motor's power properly. It's really only a technical difference, so not of particular concern. Plus, the ones used for ebiking and the sort are relatively low-rpm to make gearing it down enough easier.

Hello, this is my first post here!
I am an electric Rc airplane person and have alot of experience with high power rc systems and motors like you are using on your moped.
I also beacame interested in buidling a small electric dirt bike to ride in my yard.

so I have lots of large lipo battery packs of 50.4v 12s

Has anyone figured a way to use a regular throttle like hall or whatever on one of the rc ESC's like you are using?

If so I can work out the rest

The motor you have found is the best deal out there for a large brushless outrunner.
I may try it also.

thanks in advance
Kevin

I believe the answer to your throttle question was debated and the best solution to using a twist grip was as follows:

-use a servo tester (or build one)
-replace/splice into where the potentiometer to adjust the frequency of the pulses with the leads going to a resistor type throttle (0-150k)

looking for the particular thread/forum where I read this....