I just replaced the headlight bulb, in my Vectrix, with a HID (Xenon) unit. The difference is absolutely amazing. Now I can really see the road and way far out down the road. Night rides on my wooded area roads are not scary anymore. I chose the 4300 deg. Kelvin bulb. It produces a very bright white light. No blue tint at all. This HID is a Bi-Xenon which provides both main beam and high beam. It has a solenoid activated metal shield surrounding the bulb which blocks part of the light for main beam operation. I had to modify the bulb base of the HID as the OEM bulb base is different from an H4. I also had to install a 7ah 12v SLA battery in the storage to power the HID. The HID draws up to 15 amp during ignition ( about .5 sec.) then stabilizes at 3.5 amp. I had no wiring schematic to see if there is a source wire, behind the headlight, that would power the HID. This kit plugged into the OEM headlight connector to run relays for the high/low function. I will just have to charge the V batteries and my HID battery at the same time. The only bug is that the headlight on light flashes indicating the headlight is out. The high beam indicator light also flashes when using high beam. I tried connecting various resistors at the headlight plug to fix this with no success. A piece of electric tape can remedy this (how un-technical) .
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It works fine without an auxiliary battery, too!
If a sticker is placed on only the low beam telltale, then this turns the blinking into a safety feature, as it attracts attention.
The high beam HID light is extremely blinding to other traffic.
The reflector needs to be adjusted down a lot to avoid blinding on low beam, and taking a heavy passenger might make the scooter unsafe because it has no auto-leveling built in.
More detaiils there: http://visforvoltage.org/forum/3747-vectux-part-3-vectrix-retampi#comment-22934
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
It checked on ebay and there are some HID conversion kits for motorcycles that claim to avoid the on board computer error. Look at this:
Ebay Item: XENON HID CONVERSION Computer Error Warning Canceler
Anyone yet converted to HID without having the flashing headlamp telltale?
Norman
No idea how these work and how many extra amps they draw. It might be too much to run without an extra battery as described by Volts76.
The current draw of different HID lamps might be different, too; I highly recommend you test it before installation.
The flashing light really IS a feature, no kidding!
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
This thread has been added to the Vectrix Collaborative Handbook, please stay on topic!
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
This is an interesting piece of information from thread http://visforvoltage.org/forum/6325-vectrix-accessories-and-mods
volts76,
Any update on how the HID lamp is working? When I first got my V back in early '08, I was also incredibly disappointed in the output from the stock headlamp. I installed a higher wattage lamp (per Vectrix's suggestion...) and promptly blew out my taillight (which Vectrix replaced). I noticed the blinking telltales for both high and low beam just before noticing my taillight was out.
I've since installed one of those PIAA super white lamps (the proper 35W) and it's a little brighter, maybe. Might just be the color temp illusion...
I'd love to pursue the HID solution, so I'm dying to hear how it's been working for you.
Thanks!
I love the HID xenon headlight. I swapped the 7ah battery for a 12ah one. It provided about 2 1/2 hrs of headlight power. I also had to aim the headlight lower. This is not a cheap conversion. Hid kit $300, battery/charger and project box $90.
Thanks for the reply! Would you be willing to offer some more details as in which specific kit, battery source, etc. Maybe even some pictures and/or instructions..? I'd love to upgrade my headlight, but I'm not very electronically savvy...
Thanks again.
I will gather the web sites where I bought the parts. I will take a few pics. The hardest thing to do is to remove the headlight assembly. I will give you tips.I will try to reply tomorrow.
Thanks so much. No need to take the time to explain the headlight removal as I've done it probably 4 or 5 times so far. At one point I had to dismantle the entire front end in order to replace the bolts that hold the whole front of the bike to the main frame because they had fallen out...
Thanks for you time!
The kit I ordered was a HID BiXenon H4 for motorcycles. http://www.xtralights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=152
When I tried to install the HID bulb in the Vectrix headlight assembly, the flat on the bulb did not line up properly. The flat on the HID bulb was not the same as the OEM bulb. I cut a new flat instead of returning the unit. I wanted HID that day. Proper bulb orientation is crucial. If you notice the OEM bulb has a low beam filament with a trough (shield) under it. That keeps light away from some of the reflector for a low beam light pattern. The rear filament has no shield giving light to the entire reflector for a high beam pattern. The BiXenon bulb has a movable shield (solenoid controlled) that gives partial blocking (low beam) or no blocking (high beam). The Hid bulb must be installed with the shield directly below the bulb (6 o’clock). The shield should be the exact same position as the OEM bulb.
The battery is a 12Ah 12volt SLA. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=upg+71707&x=16&y=20
They are available at many sites. Check above site for battery dimensions.
I bought 2 project boxes (7x5x3”). http://www.radioshack.com/search/in7x5x3”)dex.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=project%20box&origkw=project%20box&sr=1 . I cut one and glued them together. I cut with a fine tooth blade on a table saw. The charger is a 2 amp 12 volt. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=upg+71707&x=16&y=20
For faster charging a 4 amp would be better. You will see 2 wires and a jack coming out of the box. The jack is for my heated gloves. The wires connect to the HID igniter module. If you don’t want to put the battery under the seat, it looks like there might be room in front of the top of the rear shock. The rear cheek panel would have to removed for this and a bracket (for the battery + charger) fabricated. The headlight aim will have to be adjusted lower.
Adjusting the headlamp
1. To adjust the light beam up and down turn the right lower side adjustment screw. Clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam.
2. To adjust the light beam side-to-side turn the upper left adjustment screw. Clockwise to move the beam to the right and counterclockwise to move the beam to the left.
Very nice! And thanks for the info and pics. I appreciate you taking the time to put this together. I'm going to attempt this in the very near future.
A question for Mik - your tailight is functioning normally even though you have no auxiliary battery to fire the ballast? Is this because you determined through testing that the current draw from the ballast remained within the V's tolerances even during the initial ignition? Sorry for the dunderheaded questions - I'm just so not electrically inclined...
Thanks to all for the input.
Now we just need to figure out how to make it a projector xenon!
Two tail lights, actually, the first was damaged in an accident. There placement has no issue with the HID light, either!
During the initial ignition the current draw is probably higher than the halogen OEM light would use.
But the damage (if it is really related) to the tail light probably happens at the moment that the headlamp is being turned off. I would not be surprised if we find out one day that the tail light failures have nothing whatsoever to do with the front light. But I don't know, yet.
This might cause a sudden voltage spike. I cannot measure this, and I think it is no problem because the HID lamp (the one I have, anyway) draws less current than both OEM filaments together.
I think it might be a bad idea to turn the key OFF whilst holding a break pulled. When the break light is on, as opposed to just the rear light, then the LED's are working close to their peak power. It seems logical to me that they would be more vulnerable to voltage spikes at such times. But I'm not an electrical engineer and really just guessing here.
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
But the countdown is started that way with the last firmware. Key off while pressing left or right break... Right does a 30 minutes delay and left is defined by user.
There is an auction on eBay selling "VECTRIX SCOOTER VX-1 VX-1E METAL WHITE XENON BULBS HID. Anyone have one? Is it safe? The seller says that were tested on Vectrix but with all the problems around the taillight, I would like to be sure if it is safe. What do you think?
I'm using one of this. It is a simple halogen bulb with a blue glass filter. Same light output, I mean, same intensity, but the light is really white, I like it.
Just needs a bulb replacement, no further problem. Just check it's 35W/35W
If you want to see my blue bulb, have a look at the end pictures of this post:
http://www.voltforum.cat/voltforum/YaBB.pl?num=1219356394/30#30
I also have this bulb installed on my V. It is the 35/35W just like the stock bulb, but a nicer white light. The package on the auction actually comes with two bulbs, so you have a backup. It is a pretty easy installation too, but you do have to remove the entire headlamp assembly to get to the back of the headlight. I can assure you it is a perfect fit and I have not had any issues for the past several months I've been running it.
Adam - Denver, CO
2007 Vectrix VX-1 charged with the power of the sun = zero carbon footprint
One of the reasons to replace the standard bulb is to get more light because it is very week. So I would like a color temperature equal to the led (6500K I think) but I also want more intensity. The auction that I've provided above seems to have a better product (that's what the seller says anyway). I'm only afraid that some anomaly may damage the tail light.
It is the same technology, same discharge levels. In my opinion, the rear light won't be afected.
New Sw allows to have both beams activated at the same time. With 70w of light (35w+35w), the light is not enough?
if you use high and low lights too long the bulb heats up too much and bursts
I didn't know! How do you do that? I only know to turn off them...
Running with cold weather (bellow 20ºC) too?
The same way you turn them off, but riding the bike (not stopped) with the short beam on. After the short "Beep" if you turn on the large beam, you'll see in the display both lights enabled, and buch brighter light beam on the road.
My high beam aims into the trees.