ERider 8000W scooter - Australia (similar to xm5000li)

Finally the new hub has arrived

I installed the motor and correctly connected all the wires and although I have no doubt that the motor is correct, I receive an error from the controller and it does not work. I explain the problem:
When I move a bit the throttle, the engine spins at full speed for a couple of seconds and stops. The controller error LED blinks three times and that's all :(
I suppose I need to set new parameters in the controller but I do not know which ones.

I'm quite sure it needs to be an IXXAT and unfortunately they are quite expensive.. You don't need any other adapter just connect the IXXAT to the Can-high (Pin 13 or 16) and Can-low (Pin 24 or 27) on the Sevcon. They might already be connected to the PDT electronics in some way.

Where can I locate and identify the PDT electronics inside?

I'm quite sure it needs to be an IXXAT and unfortunately they are quite expensive.. You don't need any other adapter just connect the IXXAT to the Can-high (Pin 13 or 16) and Can-low (Pin 24 or 27) on the Sevcon. They might already be connected to the PDT electronics in some way.

Where can I locate and identify the PDT electronics inside?

Sorry, but I am not familiar with the PDT stuff..
Are you sure you have all the connections right with the motor-controller?
If it's a different manufacturer of the new motor the wires could be connected to different phases and/or hall sensors even if the colours match, there is no standard for this.
There are 36 different combinations and only 1 is right, one or more can cause the motor to act like yours and the controller doesn't get the right readings and cuts out. Other combinations can make the motor go in reverse and others the motor to stutter or lock up..

Are you sure you have all the connections right with the motor-controller?
If it's a different manufacturer of the new motor the wires could be connected to different phases and/or hall sensors even if the colours match, there is no standard for this.
There are 36 different combinations and only 1 is right, one or more can cause the motor to act like yours and the controller doesn't get the right readings and cuts out. Other combinations can make the motor go in reverse and others the motor to stutter or lock up..

Yes, in this case the colors match. Anyway I will try new combinations and see what happens. I hope not to damage the controller...

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You were finally right Johnny; The colors did not match.
Based on your good advice, I have tried one by one the 36 combinations (twice) and I have verified that there are three of them that are correct. This result seems logical because depending on the name A, B or C assigned to the motor wires, I will find a combination for the HAL sensors. However the engine has little power and makes a strange noise when the throttle is released and the regenerative brake works.
I think it may be necessary to modify some parameters in the controller. I can not think of anything else.

As I understand it, it's a bit like timing in an ICE engine, in that you can have combinations that are close, but are too "advanced" or "retarded" in Hall sensor "timing" for the motor to run properly. Did you try all three working combinations to see if one was ok? You probably did, but in case you skipped testing one...

Good! Mine also has a strange noise when releasing the throttle and the controller cuts the power if I apply power too quickly.
Haven't tried to tweak the parameters yet since it works fine if I'm accelerating slowly, will try to change the "Sine Wave Angle" some day..

As I understand it, it's a bit like timing in an ICE engine, in that you can have combinations that are close, but are too "advanced" or "retarded" in Hall sensor "timing" for the motor to run properly. Did you try all three working combinations to see if one was ok? You probably did, but in case you skipped testing one...

In this case I have tried the three combinations with the same result.
I think you're right, it looks like there's a little gap with the HAL sensors.

Good! Mine also has a strange noise when releasing the throttle and the controller cuts the power if I apply power too quickly.
Haven't tried to tweak the parameters yet since it works fine if I'm accelerating slowly, will try to change the "Sine Wave Angle" some day..

In my case besides the strange noise, the engine has much less power than the old engine.
In this video you can see a test where the noise is appreciated.
test
Is it the same as your motor?

No, that's not the same noise at all, mine is more of a "whining" noise..
Have you asked the motor manufacturer if they have a Sevcon file for your motor?

No, that's not the same noise at all, mine is more of a "whining" noise..
Have you asked the motor manufacturer if they have a Sevcon file for your motor?

They tell me from "QS-motor", they are not familiar with the sevcon controller setup. However, I just asked them again if it would be possible to get a setup file for this engine. I hope they can help me in some way

Here is a video that the original thread starter made for me which shows the normal whine that a properly setup Sevcon Gen whatever makes when driving an 8kW Quan Shun knock-off from former erider on the main stand. The only strange thing here is the regenning at max rpm:
ERider PDT 8000w motor

Here is a video that the original thread starter made for me which shows the normal whine that a properly setup Sevcon Gen whatever makes when driving an 8kW Quan Shun knock-off from former erider on the main stand. The only strange thing here is the regenning at max rpm:
ERider PDT 8000w motor

Besides the noise, my engine does not push like the one above.
I can not edit the previous post to modify the video link to see it without downloading it (around 20 mb) so I put it here: Sevcon QS motor test

As Johnny wrote you most likely have a Hall switch-timing issue. No easy fix as you would have to invest into a programmer and or Sevcon software and the very steep learning curve. Have you ever scoured the endless sphere forum for such phenomena?

As Johnny wrote you most likely have a Hall switch-timing issue. No easy fix as you would have to invest into a programmer and or Sevcon software and the very steep learning curve. Have you ever scoured the endless sphere forum for such phenomena?

I agree with you and Johnny about the problem.
I just started to gather information in the forum that you has recommended me so I thank you for your advice. I found interesting information there although I keep reading.
As for the software, that problem I have solved and I am looking for an inexpensive USB2CAN IXXAT driver. After I have all this, I'm sure more questions will come up.

As for the software, that problem I have solved and I am looking for an inexpensive USB2CAN IXXAT driver. After I have all this, I'm sure more questions will come up.

Only the expensive USB2CAN converters tend to work with controllers :-(

Nice to hear from the originator of this thread again, and nice to hear your PDT erider is still riding fine, despite some age-related issues :-)

My erider recently caught on fire when the controller failed and the bike has significant demage. I have salvaged the 10 Nissan Leaf batteries which appear fine. I have a charger for these battteries and Zeva BMS (Except for main control unit which was burnt: available from Zeva for $135). Total cost was $2600 for this. If anyone interested in buying these let me know. I would accept $1200. I have recently bought a low Km Zero DS 2014 to compesate for my loss!.

Oh my golly! Are you sure it was the failed controller that caught fire, or did it short out the battery terminals and the main power wires started to smoke? You are probably in Australia, so your potential buyer should probably be local? I'm in Germnany, with a gracefully aging Winston/TS 24 cell 40Ah pack in my Thunder (without the -bolt)...

There are better batteries available than welding 18650's together

There's likely to be a battery order for NMC large format cells some time this year to replace a number of iMiev and Leaf batteries. back of the envelope calculation suggests you could fit 100Ah in your present battery box.

Batteries have moved on heaps in the past couple of years

Matt

I wonder what Leaf cells or modules will be available to order? Anyway, just a heads-up on Leaf cells: aside from the now-old pre-April 2013 cells using the old, fast degrading chemistry, there are also issues with the 2016-2017 30kwh packs. Quite a few bad cells have turned up, especially in the early build packs, and there is also a capacity loss issue that Nissan *claims* was just a BMS programming error, but which is turning out, at least in appearances, to be a genuine rapid capacity loss issue, especially in hotter climates. So be careful when using both older Leaf cells and 2016-2017 30kwh Leaf cells...

Greetings to all!
I'm glad to know that this thread is still alive updating our scooters to keep them running ;)
The batteries replacement is something that we keep in mind but in my case, I have not decided the technology as it evolves continuously.
Is it a good idea to replace the 3.2V LiFePO4 Prismatic Cells with new, higher capacity ones? Or change to a new format with 18650 cells?
Are there really commercial graphene batteries?

Regards,
ratos

Have you ridden the bike more or less daily for 8 years? :-)

How unfortunate! Yes, please keep us updated if you can ever find a solution to your problem without the help of erider Australia...

Hi all i have been reading the post's and there is a lot of good information, I have a green lightning bolt without batteries, controller, charger etc but the bike is in great condition. I also purchased a silver thunderbolt that was in bits but everything was there, i have the chl batteries and they all measure approx 3.2volts, There is a baleaf passive bms which i have worked out most of the connection, 0 to negative on cell one and the 1 - 24 on each positive terminal of each cell. There are 3 black wires that come from the bms with round terminals, i would imagine 1 goes to the negative on the battery and the other two which have continuity go to the frame? I am just trying to get this together and working and see what state everything is in before moving forward.
As far as the tc charger is concerned i know positive would go to cell 24 positive but the neg does not reach cell one, would this go to the frame. I have schematic but it is different. Any help appreciated.