I wait for notifications generally, but last evening I had the REAR valve stem come apart and the rear tire is ruined - or as good as. Now I have to look up how to R&R the rear wheel. Can anyone link me?
Here is a link to Vectrix Parts tutorials. Lot's of good info.
Thanks for the link - that's pretty much what I wanted, although I was hoping for photos. So the brake rotor stays on the wheel when it's removed, or did I read too fast? because I don't see it on the wheel in the next drawing.
The brake rotor is not attached to the wheel, it is attached to the wheel hub as shown in the drawings. You could remove it if you want but is not necessary. If you just go ahead and start the wheel removal following the instructions I think it will be pretty straightforward. I usually jack the bike up with a block of wood under the rear end of the battery box and then let it down on some short pieces of two by four stacked up or other suitable blocking. Be sure it is stable and leave the jack in place to take some of the weight. Be careful to balance the bike during raising and have the two by four blocking ready and within reach to let it down on. It is best to have a helper for this to make sure the bike doesn't fall over during the jacking up process. Good luck
Thanks. Now... what are the best big scooter tires available today, for no more than, say, $150? I'm also hoping for one that has a 'balancing dot' since it's so hard to balance those wheels.
I had Michelin City Grip tires installed (rear 140/60-13 63P and front 120/70-14 55S). $120 USD total for the two tires at the end of 2019. I've been happy with them.
Might be time to start some new posts for all the different topics popping up in this one :P
2007 Vectrix VX-1 (19 gen2 Leaf modules, ESD charger)
2013 Nissan Leaf SV
As previously stated, the disc remains on the hub and the wheel is simply lifted over it:
When I replaced my rear tyre (before the main stand was fitted) I placed a block of wood under the kickstand and then used a mechanical scissor jack on the right hand rear underside corner of the frame to raise the rear wheel off the ground, and then placed some bricks underneath the frame for additional security.
I also locked the steering and tied the front brake lever in the fully applied position to help prevent the bike from moving while removing and refitting the wheel assembly.
As stated in the Vectrix manual, when refitting the wheel nuts, ensure that the tapered edge faces inwards towards the wheel assembly to correctly locate and secure the wheel:
Wheel nuts 23 Nm (17 lb ft)
Swingarm nuts 23 Nm (17 lb ft)
Axle nut 145 Nm (107 lb ft)
Caliper bolts 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
Shock absorber bolt 57 Nm (42 lb ft)
Important: Whenever the wheel has been separated from the hub flange, any rust or contaminants must be cleaned from the hub flange and the wheel mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral runout (LRO) of the wheel, which could lead to a shimmy or vibration.
An update on my VX1 I got the rear tire on by getting some latex out of a fixaflat can and put it on the bead, inside the rim sealed the old rubber enough so it popped on and sealed.
With that I have been riding it starting with about a 1 mile range and now up to 2.5 miles or so.
I'm making the Volt battery module up and just have to get the title in my name I'll convert it to 6kwh of 49.2vdc Volt module sections. And fairly quickly make a new much more aero windshield, leg aero mods.
I'll take out the battery cover, seat, center cover and make a flat to the frame battery cover saving weight, lowering seat height 6", make a new seat should lower frontal area nicely and increase rider comfort, lower frontal area. Between the battery replacement, it's cover, fans it should be about 100lbs lighter than stock.
I'm hoping with that, .22CD aero, old tires at higher pressure experimenting I can get 100 mile range on 6kwh is my goal. And looking out for a better battery as I'd like to put in 15kwh for 200 mile plus range at 60mph.
If someone who can, start a Vectrix tire and another Aero thread would be helpful to get these somewhere the data can be found, concentrated. MC Tires are a big deal as so high drag getting a balance between traction and range we can increase range 10-40% with some testing. The base tires pressures seem rather low at 32 and 40psi so increasing them to say 42 and 50psi will be a start then test for handling, range.
Got the new Volt module pack mostly in and did the lightbulb trick, hooked it up, turned the key and everything lit up!! ;^) I was worried a bit on the 148vdc , likely higher than stock NiMH though still don't know what it's voltage should have been. It charged to 139vdc.
Found a workaround on the temp boards so not having to change the programing, I just labeled and cut the sensor leads and other than the charger not working, no problem yet. The charger didn't work before likely from bad temp sensors. I blew a couple in a blaze of sparks when it started raining and I wasn't fast enough to cover them. Since they were crispy critters and the bike still worked, it gave me the idea to just cut all the sensor leads instead of taking the batteries apart. I did the burned set leads and the bike still worked, so did the rest.
And not knowing canbus or computers well that could have delayed getting it running months.
I added an Anderson connector to add chargers and I have a 2.4kw and once new software, Dugas likely, hopefully the stock charger will work would give me almost 4kw total. I can make up 7kw of charging but the weight adds up.
I have no idea what most of the gauges do or if are viable at higher voltages. I'll add voltage and amp, amphr gauges.
It's nice sitting low in it and the butt back for lack of a better term becomes a lumbar support though I may want to move it farther back for a low feet forward riding style. And makes it easier for my weak legs to hold it up for lights.
So far as a friend gave the dead bike to me when I saw it in his battery business and asked about it and I've owned the batteries for 3 yrs, $1200/6kwh normally, and got them selling modules and taking the profits in modules. All up under $200 so far, most all for title/tag. ;^)
One question, the gear whine on acceleration is high. How much is normal and does it mean I need oil or a new gearbox or normal?
So time to study up on the gauges and how to fill the trans oil.
These bikes have straight cut planetary gears in the transmission, and do whine a LOT. I seem to remember mine whining less under load, but I could be mistaken - I haven't really ridden more than a mile or so since last Fall.
I have two new tires ordered for my bike. Thanks for the tip on brand and model, Kevin, and for all the help from everyone on the wheel R&R!
Congrats, Jerry! Sounds like you're making good progress!
I created a new thread for you to post your aero mods: https://visforvoltage.org/forum/14546-freedomevs-vx-1-aero-mods
When you get a chance, please message forum moderator David. He will be able to update your account so you can create threads yourself: https://visforvoltage.org/user/webmaster
FYI - I'm here as well. I haven't been making postings either as Webmaster or as Reikiman -- but I'm here, in the background, making sure things are running.
The main task is catching spammers. Y'all won't not know this, but there are a bunch of spamming messages that are never visible because I block them first.
- David Herron, http://longtailpipe.com/
Many thanks, David. Your keeping this board going is responsible for many Vectrix scooters staying on or getting back on the road, I'm sure!
I remember you .
I am coming back to VisV after long, long time.
I ride 2 ebikes both equipped with EPLUS drives.
searching for "EPLUS" you can read my posts.
David, thank you for keeping this forums alive
let's see if you are going to respond?
Yes! when in trouble with my Vectrix...
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