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Check to make sure your front brakes are properly adjusted and aren't tripping the motor cut off switch. That could be the cause of your problem with the throttle. Maybe not but at least its a place to start. Next I would check all your connectors. Some of the wiring on these bikes is suspect.
Where is the 30 amp fuse located? I haven't had trouble blowing my fuse yet, and I have the shunt mod on my bike, and have measured over 30 amps momentarily while testing to see how much current it draws with the mod. I suppose a 35 amp draw for less than a second may not blow the fuse, but others have reported blowing the fuse in normal operation. That suggests that there may be a pinched wire somewhere which is momentarily shorting and drawing a bunch of current. The power wiring on this bike is 14 gage, which suggests average current below 15 amps. By the way, the best place to buy blade fuses, and replacement fuseholders, is an automotive parts store. One thing concerns me though, is that almost all blade fuses are rated at 32 volts, and so are the fuseholders. There are 30 Amp, 3AG fuses available, and I'm sure one can find inline fuseholders for them, and they are rated up to 230 volts. If you ever decide to replace the fuseholder in your bike, I would suggest looking into this option. These are the little glass fuses that are 1 1/4 inches long and 1/4 inches in diameter. I'm currently looking for a panel mount fuse so I can mount it somewhere and have access to the fuse without removing any body panels.
By the way, I have updated my website with more pictures, and more modifications to my XB-500.http://www.bergerweb.net/xb500/
About your cutout problem.... I had a similar problem... I would lose power intermittently. I found that I had not plugged the connector tight enough into my battery pack, and would lose connection when going over bumps. This may not be your problem, but it's worth being the first thing on your checklist when you lose power momentarily.
One last thing, and this question is for everyone... Is the left brake lever supposed to activate dynamic motor braking? My right brake lever controls the front drum brake, and the motor braking. My left brake lever controls the rear drum brake, and does not activate motor braking. It does, however, turn on my brake light. (either brake lever controls the brake lights). Is my bike normal, or should either lever activate dynamic braking through the motor? All replies are welcome.
Waste Not, Want Not
Yep, you're right about the cutout. Went through and reconnected everything and it works just fine. After riding 3 miles roundtrip though, my batteries were already at half-strength and it took hours for that green light to come on for the recharge. Think I need to exchange them.
Looked over your Web site on that shunt mod and it might as well be printed in Greek. Sooo far over my head. I don't really need the 60V mod but desperately need the shunt mod.
Don't know about a "30-amp" fuse (;)) but I that green blade fuse is here:http://visforvoltage.org/forum/4590-xb500-short-question
Hey Dickey B
RE: the brakes
Your bike is normal. My post was not. The right brake controls the cutoff.
Thanks for confirming that. I did some tracing on the controller board, and found that the circuit for the left brake is different from the right. The brake switch on the right handle will set the input to an A/D converter to almost 0 volts, while the left handle brake switch sets the input to about 2.5 volts. Apparently the processor distinguishes between the two. One value merely shuts down the motor, while the other shorts across the motor, causing dynamic braking. I suppose if you wanted a small bit of dynamic braking on the left brake grip, you could change one of the resistors on the controller board and get a different result. I may try this and see what happens.
Aztec.... I've been thinking about your proposal to have me do your shunt mod for you. Perhaps I can modify a controller for you if you are willing to help in some experimental testing I would like to do to determine what size shunt to use. If you would like to participate in some testing, e-mail me, and we'll see about exchanging unmodified controllers for modified ones.
Hi there !
I finished my XB-600 conversion today...after 3km, I hit a bump and then the axle spun in the dropout. :(
I tought I had fixed the wheel correctly but I see know by rereading this post that I did not put the tab washer correctly.
Do you think the motor and controller are fried ?
Maybe if I change the wires coming from the motor everything can work again ?
Do you think it is doable ?
Extreme did not send spacer. Am I suppose to have a spacer ??
I don't want to mess with Extreme support again, I hope I will be able to repair it myself.
I did it !!
I have been able to reconnect the wires inside the motor after my axle as spun in the dropout and cut the wire !
Here are some images of how I did it.
I will probably put more comments on my Visforvoltage Blog when I will have had the time to ride a bit...I am still waiting for the locktite to harden.
Tab washer damaged on the inside
Removed all the screw
Opened Motor on the wire side
Wire coming down the shaft
Opened motor on the brake side
Inside motor connection
I used the wires that were cutout to make the repair...If it ever happen again...I will have to buy new ones because the original won't be long enough. Here is what I lost on the original motor cables.
And it Works !!
Can't wait to ride it again
two 48v battery in parallel gives a lot of torque to this motor !
Well done, Gendronw. First, you should use Loctite Blue on those nuts and get them nice and tight. Next, order new lock washers ASAP. The damaged ones probably won't hold up in the long run. They're only $8 or so. In my trials I was never able to get past those allen screws to open the motor. Now I know how to do it should I ever need to.
Torque arms are the answer to our spinout problems. I just recently visited a website that advertises them...http://www.ebikes.ca/
They have a universal torque arm that should work for almost any electric bike. I'm ordering two of them, and putting them on both sides of my hub motor, to augment the locking washers that are supplied with the bike. This should give me twice the amount of holding power to keep the hub from spinning in the dropouts.
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