ERider 8000W scooter - Australia (similar to xm5000li)

Greetings from Spain and congratulations on this great thread I have reread several times and which I have learned a lot.

I recently bought a "eRider PDT Thunder 8000" second-hand and not enough information for maintenance and configuration.
I appreciate all the help they can provide me to verify their status and modify the default values to optimize its performance.

To begin, I would like to know your opinion about this cheap alternative to cycle analyst

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-120V-250A-Volt-Current-Ah-Power-Combo-Meter-Charge-Discharge-Battery-Monitor-/161687505885

I hope your comments

Greetings from Spain and congratulations on this great thread I have reread several times and which I have learned a lot.

I recently bought a "eRider PDT Thunder 8000" second-hand and not enough information for maintenance and configuration.
I appreciate all the help they can provide me to verify their status and modify the default values to optimize its performance.

To begin, I would like to know your opinion about this cheap alternative to cycle analyst

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-120V-250A-Volt-Current-Ah-Power-Combo-Meter-Charge-Discharge-Battery-Monitor-/161687505885

I hope your comments

Greetings from Spain and congratulations on this great thread I have reread several times and which I have learned a lot.

I recently bought a "eRider PDT Thunder 8000" second-hand and not enough information for maintenance and configuration.
I appreciate all the help they can provide me to verify their status and modify the default values to optimize its performance.

To begin, I would like to know your opinion about this cheap alternative to cycle analyst

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-120V-250A-Volt-Current-Ah-Power-Combo-Meter-Charge-Discharge-Battery-Monitor-/161687505885

I hope your comments

Greetings from Spain and congratulations on this great thread I have reread several times and which I have learned a lot.

I recently bought a "eRider PDT Thunder 8000" second-hand and not enough information for maintenance and configuration.
I appreciate all the help they can provide me to verify their status and modify the default values to optimize its performance.

To begin, I would like to know your opinion about this cheap alternative to cycle analyst

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-120V-250A-Volt-Current-Ah-Power-Combo-Meter-Charge-Discharge-Battery-Monitor-/161687505885

I hope your comments

I have one of those on my Yamaha project.
Haven't tried it properly yet, but so far I can say that the Amp-meter does not seem very accurate and jumps up and down quite much all the time.
Does not seem like a good quality item...

Thanks for your answer Johnny; I find it really interesting the possibility to know the level of discharge of the battery (Ah) that the current consumption in Amperes so unreliable if the instantaneous consumption, I think I could live without.
There is a 90V / 500A version that best fits the parameters of the battery and is somewhat cheaper and I think I will buy to see if I can plan the distance I can go depending on the battery charge.

I don't know if the scooter controller provides status data, nor where is the interface to connect and get data; I have yet to investigate this.
Nor do I have manuals do not know how to make a test status so if someone can give me some information on this scooter I would be very grateful

I have just Picked up a Erider Lighting bolt that is running the sevcon Gen4 , the bike has a charged battery after running the volt meter over it. but when I turn the key I get 2 flashing light code Space the repeat and the bike does nothing , no lights, horn power etc , where do I get the code list from ..Thanks

My Erider uses 60 Wh/km. A litre of petrol has about 10,000Wh of energy. So the comparable energy consumtion to a petrol scooter is 10,000/60 = 167 km/l (0.6l/100km). i.e. electric hub motors are very efficient as an equivalent sized petrol scooter would be unlikely to get more then 50 km/l (2 l/100km).

Thanks for the info below and has been "Saved" At this time all is good regarding the controller after replacing the DC to DC converter. no flashing codes

I have just Picked up a Erider Lighting bolt that is running the sevcon Gen4 , the bike has a charged battery after running the volt meter over it. but when I turn the key I get 2 flashing light code Space the repeat and the bike does nothing , no lights, horn power etc , where do I get the code list from ..Thanks

You can try resetting the computer or the other methods below...

You need to use the throttle and the green led beside the red one on
the handle bar consol.
1. Turn on ignition key (green led flashes)
2. Twist the throttle to max and hold it in the position (The led will
then turn off)
3. Press the start push button 10 times (The led will start flashing
fast after the 10th press)
4. Twist the throttle back to (0) than back to max and back to (0) and
leave at (0)
5. The led will keep blinking fast and than will start blinking normal.
6. Turn off ignition and on again.
7. Start the Bike in the normal way.
Reset is done

Hello everyone.
I put in the search engine driver name of my bike keb72801x and has left me the first post of this bike.
Sorry if I bothered to ask for help.

He used the regenerative braking until one day stop having 12V.
I changed the dc-dc converter.
But now it turns out that the regenerative braking does not work. if I disconnect the dc-dc converter, it operates the regenerative brake. If I disconnect this piece.

The bike runs but the regenerative brake does not work.
If I connect the piece, the bike does not accelerate and lights malfunctioning.
Can you help me to use the regenerative brake again?
Thank you.

I have finally got the Nissan Leaf cells delivered and fitted into the bike. 10 cells fit nicely. Took 3.5 months from the payment to Suzi Auto until the cells arrived. The motor is spinning but I still need to wire up the Zeva BMS so I can charge the cells. The cells are supposed to be 60 ah but the are Gen 1 cells which are now 5 years old. The internal resistance of all the cells is <4 Megaohms which hopefully is reassuring. I will try to figure out true ah when BMS working.
Some photos:

Looks Nice and a Clean install

I was having trouble with Sabvoton controller over heating. I innitially drilled 30 x 10mm holes in controller casing but the controller still overheated at about 20-25 km. However, I added a computer fan 2W 12 Volts and cut a large 40 mm opening in casing to attach the fan to. At the same time I added a large heatsink to cover the entire base of the controller and placed heatsink paste between the two. The fan is fairly quite but you can hear it when stopped. Anyway I have gone for 2x 55km rides in last 2 warm days without the controller overheating so hopefully this has fixed the problem.I think the fan is more important then the heatsinks although the heat sink was quite warm at the end of ride. I did have a little bit of rain on one trip without problem. I wouldn't like to try it in a downpour. With the 10 nissan leaf 60A batteries the bike will go about 55 km going from 90% charge to 20% charge. It takes about 3.2kwh to recharge the batteries.

Do you have a pic or two of your current controller cooling setup? I have the same trouble with my Lingbo/Goldenmotor 5kW Controller which is mounted on a steel sheetmetal pice and easily overheats in ambient temp. over 25°C in our rather non-flat region...

My solution wasn't very elegant and I do worry about water getting into controller. I would try just adding large heatsink first and see if that solves problem as it keeps controller enclosed. The heatsink in photo is available after I cut out the bit I need. I have been able to return the current settings on controller to recommended settings with the BMS reporting brief outputs of 13kW. The bike hasn't stopped unexpectantly now for 500km.

So the controller is bolted to the flat side of the heat sink (fins pointing away from the controller), and you have a (thermostat-controlled?) PC fan blowing air into the fins? And the whole thing is mounted where / to what? Still to that white plastic board under the seat?

13kW electrical is quite decent :-)

The fan is on all the time and not controller by thermostat. I can't see great need for thermostat except so you wouldn't hear the fan. I doubt the controller could get too cold. Heat sink is attached to metal base of controller. the White sheet on my bike is made from galvanised steel and the heat sink is attached to this.

My new problem is the regen braking won't work until batteries are about 1/3 discharged. My experience with these lightweight bikes is that regen probably only adds about 1-2% extra battery capacity so its not a great problem. I suspect the controller limits regen to avoid overcharging batteries but it appears excessively conservative and I can't find anything in the software to adjust this. Additionally, when I was only charging my batteries with Constant current to 4.1 volts regen always worked. I have modified the charger to allow CC and then constant voltage charging to 4.15 volts which has changed the regen.

Thanks for the cooling details!
What you need to look for in the LMBC gui is the setting for "Reverse charging voltage (V)" in the Controller functions settings section. That may have to be set higher as long as it remains within safe battery voltage limits.

Hi all,
I have just buy a new hub motor for my Erider 8000W PDT because the original has been completely burned :(
Now I don't know if I need set some adjust to the controller settings. My Erider is a PDT version and I don know how to access to modify if needed.
The new motor is a V2 version and the old is a V1.
Please, I appreciate any help.

Just try power wire and hall sensor combinations until it works. Try matching colours first. I have different Controller which is programmable but I think the original Sevcon controller is very difficult to get software license. If you can't get it working you might need to buy new controller. I have a sabvoton which works ok and fairly easy to get hall sensor programming working.

Just try power wire and hall sensor combinations until it works. Try matching colours first. I have different Controller which is programmable but I think the original Sevcon controller is very difficult to get software license. If you can't get it working you might need to buy new controller. I have a sabvoton which works ok and fairly easy to get hall sensor programming working.

Thanks for your answer.
Before buying another controller, I'll try to get an old free version (1.03c I have heard) but that I can not find anywhere.
If anyone knows how to locate this software please send me to pm.

I'm still waiting for the new motor hub so I'll keep searching...

This is the interior of the old engine :(

I'm using a version called "Sevcon DVT Customer TCL85" which it not the latest but works fine, can send it to you if you want. Do you have an IXXAT USB-CAN converter?

I'm using a version called "Sevcon DVT Customer TCL85" which it not the latest but works fine, can send it to you if you want. Do you have an IXXAT USB-CAN converter?

Wow!!! that is fantastic for me!!!

I have just send you a pm ;)

I don't have an IXXAT USB-CAN converter. I suppose I need one to connect.

Must be an IXXAT? or may I use other adapter?

Thanks for your help

Hmmm... It is the first time that I do something like this and I realize that I am a little lost.
I have been reading some threads and apparently I need in addition to the USB-CAN converter, a DB9 to OBDII adapter to connect to the controller.
The DB9 -> OBDII adapter is easy to find and is cheap but the converter I think is more difficult and expensive.

I'm quite sure it needs to be an IXXAT and unfortunately they are quite expensive.. You don't need any other adapter just connect the IXXAT to the Can-high (Pin 13 or 16) and Can-low (Pin 24 or 27) on the Sevcon. They might already be connected to the PDT electronics in some way.

...This is the interior of the old engine :(

WOW! How did THAT happen? That motor sure is toast! This is what it SHOULD look like:

I'm quite sure it needs to be an IXXAT and unfortunately they are quite expensive.. You don't need any other adapter just connect the IXXAT to the Can-high (Pin 13 or 16) and Can-low (Pin 24 or 27) on the Sevcon. They might already be connected to the PDT electronics in some way.

I found this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-CAN-USB-to-CAN-Bus-Converter-Adapter-USB-Cable-/121220911764?hash=item1c39545294

But after reading you I suppose it is not valid.

I sent an email to the EXXAT dealer in Spain asking for the price, although I think it will be really expensive.

...This is the interior of the old engine :(

WOW! How did THAT happen? That motor sure is toast! This is what it SHOULD look like:

I guess here in Andalusia (Spain) the weather is too warm :)

I really do not know what happened but this is what I found when I opened it.
The new engine comes with an internal temperature sensor that at this moment, I do not know how to manage. If I can't connect it to the controller and activate it in the configuration, I may use it as a sensor for an external thermometer and monitor the temperature of the wheel stator.