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I'm guessing that they're a bit cheaper. For some reason 20Ahr 12V batteries don't seem to be a hugely ubiquitous part. I've seen a lot of 18AHr and 22AHr batteries. I'm going with 18's myself simply because I found a good supplier (good prices and reputable) close to my home (within XB-600 distance) so I can save the $10+ in shipping each.
My theory is that I might be able to rig it up so that the 2 extra batteries (24V) will be somewhat separate from the original 48V. The idea being that I can save some modifications and replacements by just keeping the 48V wiring in as normal and then add the extra 24V only on the input wires to the controller. Again, I need to look at the wiring diagram and check some specs but it might be a decent trade off (read: cheap and easy way to do things). Though, I suppose this might be better posted as another topic at a later date.
Hi depetro,
I don't think your idea will really save you any money. You still have to modify the controller which is the biggest part of the 72V conversion. To keep the rest of the bike on 48 volt you simply need to wire in a resistor (like the one from Mouser Elect for about 6 bucks as Bocabikeguy suggested) You might check with Warren (Zerogas) on the exact wiring of it but his is working properly now since he wired the resistor to the original 48volt pack on the bike. Splitting up the batteries also forces you to charge seperately which is a drag and the different ah rating will drain the entire pack differently. Some things to think about I guess.
My experience going to 60V has been easier since the DC to DC converter is rated to 60V and I simply added another 12 20ah battery under the seat. I replaced my charger with a 60v from a XM-2000 and Voila! You would never know the bike is modded at all. My battery pack drains evenly since they are all matched (at least so far) and I am not so worried about burning out the motor on the XB. I don't think anyone really knows if that motor can take 72V for an extended period of time. Zerogas is the ongoing experiment --- kind of our EV Test Tube Baby!
Good luck on your mods.
Rob
Hello all,
Day 4 at 72v commuting to and from work. The 2 new batteries did the trick. I didn't charge at work and had plenty of power to get home. The 18ah batteries are rated low, they are more like 21 or 22ah batteries and at $45 each at Interstate Batteries, They work out cheaper than those from extreme and I don't have to wait for them to come in. As for charging, I unplug the spade connectors where I ran my wires up through the seat and connect the 48v pack back together. I charge it with the stock charger. For the other 2 batteries I switch 2 wires to make them in parallel (12v even though they are 2 batteries) and charge them with a separate $28 schumacher charger I bought at wal-mart. Yes, I'm too cheap to buy another $28 charger, LOL. I charge them in parallel with one 12v charger. This mod was well worth the trial and error. The bike is sooo much better now. I have noticed one thing though. My rear wheel isn't aligned correctly and my back tire is almost worn smooth. :( That's next on the list along with installing my voltage and amp meters.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey guys,
Does anyone know which one of these resistors would be a 1M and which is a 1K? The directions say to solder a 1M across R1 and a 1K across R3 to make it a 200v voltage meter, but I don't know which is which. Here's the pic...
Thanks in advance,
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
Glad to hear 72V is treating you well. I'm going to pick up some batteries this afternoon and do 60V for a few days as I wait on parts (mosfets, caps, relay, etc) before going to 72V.
About those resistors, the color bands on them tell you the actual resistance. I can't read them from the picture, but here's a website that you can use to decode for yourself.
http://breakup.de/resources/resistor.html
Of course, you could just use a multimeter to check, but that's just too easy.
Also, how is fitting both of the 18Ahr batteries in the underseat compartment? Do they both fit easily?
PS: I'm cheap too and will probably just charge them with a single 12V charger and occasionally balance them separately as well.
Why didn't I think of the multimeter?! You're a genius! lol The batts fit fine under the seat and coincidentally, they are the same size as the stock batteries in the pack. :)
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
I installed the amp gauge and multimeter. It was pretty simple. I just put a shunt inline on the 6th battery's negative cable and ran 2 wires up to the amp meter then connected to the dc converter yellow wire and ground to power the screen. The voltmeter was even easier. All I had to do was run power to the same place as the amp meter and connect the 2 voltmeter leads to the back of the stock voltage gauge. :P Now it looks like this(sorry it was dark outside)....
Looks cool, eh? I mounted them in the black plastic under the handlebars where the gray instrument panel meets the black plastic. I traced around the amp meter with a sharpie and cut the rectangles out with a utility knife. It looks good and works great. I'm pulling about 8-12 amps cruising and 25-35 amps on hills. It's nice to be able to look down and monitor that. :D
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Warren,
That amp meter is pretty sweet. I was wondering who'd be the first to put one in. How much was it and where'd you get it from? I'm pretty sure I'll be joining you at 72V by the end of next weekend. I just got 2 12V 18Ahr batteries today so I guess the extra $35 for the battery commits me to going 72V.
Out of curiosity, do you know what the original MOSFET part number is? I was wondering if those could actually handle 72V. I saw them the other day when I did the shunt mod but didn't get a chance to write them down.
depetro,
You can get the amp meter off ebay for around $18 plus shipping. It comes with the shunt. As for the mosfets... They are 75v mosfets so they MIGHT handle the 72v, but I'd be afraid they'd blow, because off the charge, the batteries have somewhere around 82v. I did ride for about 30 minutes with the stock mosfets once, but I went back to 60v til I could get some 100v mosfets and capacitors in. I DO KNOW the stock capacitors won't handle 72v LOL!
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
that would be brown black red for 1k, and brown black blue for 1meg ohm
Tom
Hey Warren,
You beat me to it. I have the meter but just haven't had the time to put it in. :) Thanks for the wiring info. I will try to get to mine this weekend. Did you get the amp meter at the same place on ebay? Do you remember the link?
Your ride looks pretty slick.
Rob,
Yeah, I got both from ebay. They look awesome at night! I wish I had room to mount them higher though, on the back of the handlebar cover is kinda at knee level to me. :( Oh well, it's still convenient to look down on hills and see my amp draw.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Actually it was already set up for 200v measurement. The 1k was brown, black, black, red, gold, and the 1M was brown, black, black, yellow, gold or something like that. :) It had these on it when it came in so, I didn't have to do any soldering at all. Hoo! Rah!
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
I am thinking of placing mine even lower down on the main cover (kind of near your shins. There at least the angle is kind of towards you so I figure just glancing down you could see the numbers because of the angle. I am going the plug the unit in before I install to see the visibility angle on the lcd display. I don't need to look at the numbers constantly just once in a while.
Other place: what about just under the speedo? On the grey plastic. Is there enough room there for one unit?
I wanted to put them under the speedo, but I couldn't figure out a way to do it. They are flat and the plastic under the speedo is curved. It would've been nice though. Upload a pic when you get yours in, I'd like to see it.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
Here is the Pic of the voltmeter:
The only problem is that I have to waterproof the back because water could potentially splash up there. I have it covered temporarily until I do something more permanent. I will post a pic when I have that done.
This location is cool because you can see the numbers clearly when you glance down. I am waiting for the amp meter to come in and place it on the other side to have a nice matching set. :)
Rob
Cool, Rob. I wish I had ordered both in blue. I can see the amps just fine, but the red panel isn't as bright, so in the day I can't see it. Looks good though. My voltage gauge didn't come with a back. Did yours?
-Warren
P.S. Day 5 at 72v(79.2v actually) :) to work and back and still good.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
No it didn't come with a back. I a going to make one that I can mount to waterproof the whole thing. Working on ideas now.
I ordered the amp meter in blue as well. Hopefully it will be as bright. It's cool to glance down and see whats happening with the bike at any time.
It was pretty easy to install. Your wiring idea was perfect. I am going to run my cable from the 5th battery tonight so I will be ready when the unit comes in.
On as side note: Just want to remind anyone reading this thread to unplug the battery and leave the keyswitch on after you disconnected to make sure you don't leave any juice in the bike or you could fry something.
How's the Rad2Go going? Can't wait to hear how you make that work.
I'm waiting for the chain for the rad2go. I'm not too sure about the controller I got for it though, it's kinda slow. Check it out here...
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/4110-rad2go-sunbird-hub-motor-issue#comment-26515
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
I'm waiting for the chain for the rad2go. I'm not too sure about the controller I got for it though, it's kinda slow. Check it out here...
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/4110-rad2go-sunbird-hub-motor-issue#comment-26515
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Day 7 and all's well! I picked my daughter(65 lbs.) and her backpack(35-45 lbs) up from school as well. The xb600 performed flawlessly, albeit a little slower. Top speed dropped to 32mph from the added weight. I also noticed that instead of cruising at 6-10 amps, I was drawing 10-15 amps with the added weight. I also got her one of the zephyr helmets from Wal-Mart to ride home with, so now we both have good helmets. We had a blast on our first ride home together since school started back at 72v!! Happy modding to all.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
A 45lb backpack??? Is she going to Stone Mason School? Lugging home chunks of marble to do homework?....:)
Sounds like its going pretty good at 72V. Good to hear. 60V is still no problem either. I can't wait until my amp meter arrives. Quick question: did you attach the shunt for the amp meter to anything or did you leave it loose?
All the best
Rob
I screwed it into the side of the seat pan beside the batteries and cut the negative from the 6th battery and put one end on each end of the shunt. Then I screwed the wires going to the meter into the other 2 screw in spots on the shunt. Oh yeah, day 8 and still scootin'! I love this thing!
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Day 9, no signs of stopping.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Looks like Bridgestone makes a tire we can use
http://mc.bridgestone.co.jp/en/products/hoop/b01.html
It's a B01 hoop. Here's their phone number 1-615-937-3442
www.BikeBandit.com has some cheng shins for $15 ea!
http://www.bikebandit.com/tires/c/a642336a4a8a634806
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Found this also. Hard to find 16x3 tires. When needed I sure don't want the stock tire, too thin for the desert thorns in SW New Mexico.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/5/32/404/5780/ITEM/Pirelli-ML-75-Rear-Moped-Tire.aspx
Happy scooting
JamesS
Happy scooting,
JamesS
Well folks, inspired by Warren's actions, this afternoon I have officially joined the 72Volt club. I can now get it up to about 36mph. The pickup is a little lacking as my shunt mod is kind of a half a shunt mod (under sized paperclip and a cold solder joint) but the top speed is awesome.
Now I just need to put my bicycle computer on the bike and get an amp meter and it'll be all finished.
Oh another question, has anyone running 60V+ tried to modify the existing voltmeter on the dash to more correctly show Full and Empty? I know the speedometer has a potentiometer on it that allows you to adjust that (don't adjust that, its a pain) but I'm wondering if the stock voltmeter can me modified to show F/E for 60 or 72V.
I measured the rim diameter on my XB-600 front wheel, and it is 12 inches, not 16 inches, although the tire is clearly marked 16 X 3.0.
I am very confused.
Just thought y'all might want to know,
Tom
Hello Tom,
Yea me too... Try searching for 76/305 that follows the 16x3 on the side wall of the tire and you get nothing.
I don't need tires yet as far as tread goes but, the original ones are so thin that I have to run slime tire sealer in them. Thats fine in the summer but in the winter if it freezes then it tends to throw the tire off balance very bad. I am going to start a new thread for tires if you would like to continue this topic.
Happy scooting,
JamesS
Happy scooting,
JamesS
Scroll up, I posted a link to the Cheng Shin tires I ordered. The size is 90/90 - 12. Trust me on this one, I sell tires day in and day out at my job as Automotive Department Manager for a large retail chain. I had previously ordered 100/90 - 10's for the scooter without looking at the wheels first, because the xm 2000 has 10" rims and I assumed the xb's did too, but they are 12" rims. You can also use regular bicycle tires from anyplace that sells bikes.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
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