Hey, Got my back tire changed, and it rolls smooth now! Then all of a sudden the rear wheel/motor stopped. The motor wire was all mutilated and the axle spun the bolts holding it, with the frame locks in place! Tightened everything after fixing the frayed wire and back in business!
My stomach just sank, but now it works great!
Gonna stay at 60V, as this is plenty of speed for me at 30mph. Thanks for all the how-to's and advice!
The motor wire was all mutilated and the axle spun the bolts holding it, with the frame locks in place!
Ummm . . . yet again, detecting a trend here.
Those things must have to be SUPER tight.
Day 10... Still going strong.... in the rain :D
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Yeah, the RIM diameter is 12" but the TIRE diameter is 16" by 3" wide.
If you need a rim, 12" is the way to go, but tires are measured by the outside diameter of the tire, not the rim. The rim size would be the inside diameter of the tire.
Maybe next we can weld an electric motor to the chain and have two motors!
I redid my shunt mod on my controller (different coat hanger, welding procedure and length of shunt) and I was clocked at 32mph with 60volts. I do draw a little more volts but not that much more and I picked up 4mph. These bikes never cease to amaze me. I think replacing all the major electrical connectors helped as well.
Life is good.
Well, it's been over a month now I think and still no adverse effects to the motor at 72v. I may have to try 84v soon. LOL
Depetro, how is yours doing at 72v with the stock mosfets?
You know, eventually you will have to put it on a race track. I notice, that just running at 60 volts, the handling gets a little scary, and the brakes really aren't up to par for even a 30 mph emergency stop.
Just be careful, and consider wearing some good safety equipment.
84????? My mother rides at 84! :)
You da man!
I haven't tried 84 volts yet. I'm having enough fun at 72v for now :D
Depetro, how is your 72v mod going with stock mosfets?
Could a faulty DC-DC converter be causing my battery pack to arc everytime I plug in the power connector? My bike wont let me re-connect my battery pack and everytime i try, it burns out and melts the terminals. I've gone through 2 new power connector/plugs and about seven 30amp fuses. I can't figure out why and I want my XB-600 back!! I miss it.
I had to ride my bike down a flight of stairs and after that, my headlamps and brake lamp blew out. Then a few days later all three of the bullet connectors for the motor into the controller FUSED together, melted the plastic covering and FUSED.
help. Where is the surge coming from??
Where is the surge coming from??
Well, something somewhere is shorting out. Finding out where could be a bit of a chore.
I would first recommend unplugging the DC-DC converter to see if the problem goes away.
Where are some of the places I should look first?? I'll start at the converter (which I assume is the silver box on the steering column.
I'll have to take a picture of my dead controller on Monday. Expect a detailed recommended routine for determining the cause of a short then.
First step is to confirm whether or not the controller is the culprit. But for a detailed process of that I'll need to run some tests at work to see what kind of amperage the controller normally draws once the battery is plugged into it.
Hello again guys. Sorry I haven't been posting in a while. I ruptured a disc in my back so I haven't been riding the scooter or doing much of anything else either. Last time I rode all was still well at 72v. In regards to the post about blowing fuses when connecting the pack. I had this problem once, but I also noticed when I plugged in the pack the speedometer would "peg out". If yours is doing this also you have a blown mosfet in the controller. I know this because I had the problem after putting in the 100v mosfets and one of them didn't contact the orange tape/case fully. Hope this helps.
Sorry to hear about your back. Still at 60v here with shunt mod. Need my scoot as an everyday driver so haven't tried 72v yet. Get well, and get back in the mix here.
I've been getting injections in my back and I'm doing better, so maybe no surgery! Woo Hoo! I'm looking forward to spring so I can get the scooter out and get back on it. I've had to buy gas all winter and it sucks! LOL I want to build an EV SOON!!
Cool, check out this 7000w motor at goldenmotors: www.goldenmotor.com
Anyone tried 84 volts yet?? I'm thinking hard about it since I have those 100v caps and mosfets. I wonder if the poor little 600w motor can take it. I got beat by a 50cc scooter today and my pride is hurting :(
Even at just 60V, my motor gets warm. At 72V yours must get hot! At 84V, you better not use full throttle for long, or you should look for a bigger motor.
It can't be too surprising that a 3HP 50cc scooter beat, what maybe 1.5 HP?
If you find a bigger motor that will fit the existing XB600 frame, that WOULD be interesting!
Then again, it would probably be time for a bigger frame. If I could go 40 mph on my BX600, it would be pretty scary.
If you find a bigger motor that will fit the existing XB600 frame, that WOULD be interesting!
Golden Motor sells a 1kw hub motor ($125 + $90 shipping) with the option of an aluminum rim thats the same siz as whats used on the XB-600.
They list it as 16", but it is in fact a 12" rim (same as the XB-600).
Should net you 23MPH @ 48V/430RPM
28MPH @ 60V
34.5MPH @ 72V
40MPH @ 84V
23mph at 48v?! That's not much better than the $90 600watt motors from x-treme. I'd like to find a 1500watt motor or go 84v, or both :D Tom, the motor does get hot, but not so hot I can't hold my hand on it. Also, if the aluminum hub is hot, that means it's doing it's job of taking heat out of the motor LOL!!!! You know I'm going to do it(84v) I just have to get another battery and there goes the space in the trunk. Then I'll have 0 storage on the scooter, lmao! Oh, well. It'll be fun till it blows xD. Regular Dc motors with a chain are faster anyway, Once I stretch the swing arm and relocate the motor on my rad2go sunbird, it's gonna own my xb 600. The 36v motor I bought for is just crazy fast at 48v!! Not bad for a $100 ebay find. I just had to take the back wheel off of my daughter's old bike to replace the hub motor that was destroyed by the previous owner. http://visforvoltage.org/forum/4110-rad2go-sunbird-hub-motor-issue#comment-26515 . In the pic at this link, you can see why I need to relocate the motor to the swing arm.
Check out my post here... to see a spot for a battery that doesnt take up storage space.
I did it a few weeks ago and it works great!!! Only thing is if I have over 280 pounds on the bike the rear tire well rubs on the tire.... but that only happens if I ride 2 people on it and thats not too good for it anyways...
Also... I am coming very close to going to 72V soon. Is there a place to buy a good controller with the 72V capacity already? As I dont particularly want to do all that soldering!!!
If and when I do I will probably look into modifying the original batter case to fit 5 or 6 batteries. I have not done the calculations yet, but from looking at it, there seems to be enough room (3" or so) that you can make on either side of the 4 batteries in it now. thus I think 4 batteries then 2 on the side sideways just might fit. Unless I am mistaken the batteries are about 7" long 6" tall and about 3" wide.
As long as there is a 10"x14" space it shouldnt be too hard to do it...
If you have all the item numbers handy for the 12 mosfets 4 capacitors and the 1 relay used for the 72V it would be greatly appreciated.
Dave ; Tennessee
Hmmm... Here is another idea, how about switching out the front wheel for another hub motor? Twice the power! Of course you would still need to add another controller, since I suspect the existing controller could; 1. not handle twice the already boosted power, and 2. Since the hub motors are closed loop motors, there is no way with a single controller to close the loop on two motors at the same time, unless you could guarantee that both motors phase locked, which you can't in this configuration.
Also, you would then need to figure out a way to control the two controllers, perhaps by using two throttles, one on the right and one on the left maybe?
Life would start to get pretty hard on those little 20 Amp batteries with two motors as well.
Just a thought,
Tom, I have seen scooters that look just like xb 600s with front and rear hub motors, but they still only do 22mph, LOL. Why is it so hard for these manufacturers to make a decent scooter at an affordable price that would rally gas performance. It's so easy to do. Anyhow, sixpack, I don't think you can get any more batteries in the floor without modifying the frame, and I don't want to be cutting on it. Besides, a backpack can give all the storage you need :) I have a little 12v 4.5a battery laying around here that I bought to run my lights before my relay came in, so I'm going to piddle with 84v today. I also have a 36v charger from my rad2go sunbird, so 84v seems like a good fit on the xb 600 even from a charging standpoint lmao! I can even take the charging socket off the rad2go's second battery pack and fit it into the side of the seat pan for plugging in! Testing will tell the tale though. If 84v is tolerable, I will do all this as a permanent mod. Have to see how it goes first. These chinese hub motors are rated for 24-72v input so, I'm REALLY only overvolting by 12v, RIGHT?!!! hahahaha. Also, I would just mod the controller, it's pretty easy to change capacitors, and the mosfets are rated 75v, so you could always try leaving them in like another modder on here did. As far as I know, he's still running 72v on the stock mosfets. One more thought, when riding my scooter draws about 5 amps, so 72v x 5 amps = 360watts, on hills it draws about 20 amps, 72 x 20 = 1440 watts. This doesn't seem too high of a performance number for these motors. They handle it quite well.
P.S. Another thing I've discovered, connect negatives first when connecting your batteries, it doesn't seem to arc as much! :)
Sixpax, here are the mosfets and capacitors I ordered:
Mosfets : http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=IRFB4110PBF-ND
Capacitors : http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=P5850-ND
The relay is just a 48v relay, I don't remember which one, but I ordered it from mouser.com
I did it, I went for 84v, but the scooter didn't like it. At first it went a solid 40mph on the speedo, but after about 10 minutes of riding, I lost the throttle completely. The bike was still on and the amp and voltage gauge were still showing pack voltage and amps, but turning the throttle does nothing. I let off of it going down a small hill and coming out of the hill, I hit the throttle and nothing happened. No fuses are blown. The controller looks fine inside as expected with 100v FETs and CAPs. All I can assume is that I finally found the limit on the 600 watt hub motor lol! I'm gonna email outtolunchcruisin and see what he's got. If nothing else I'll mod it similar to what I've done on the rad2go. It was a fun 10 minutes anyway. The kicker is, I just put my new cheng shin tires on yesterday and the xb 600 was riding soooo smooth. DAMN!
Interesting about the tires...do some work better than others?
I'm not sure, these are what I found that were the right size. Most were too big or vice versa. They are way smoother than the stock tires though. It doesn't matter much right now, as my scooter is dead and I'm not sure if 84v fried the motor or controller. I did some testing and I can get a voltage at either of the 3 phase wires by spinning the wheel, so I'm leaning towards the controller being toast. I knew better.....
-Warren, a.k.a. 84v controller killer
P.S. Does anyone know which wires to test to see if the controller is sending power to the motor?
my guess would be the red and black wires from the 6pin connector to the hub.
Bummer about 84V not working..... Maybe you finally reached a wattage limit on something....
Its possible that the throttle went out too.
Did you try going back to the 72V to see what it did??
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