72v 35MPH xtreme xb 600!!!!!!!! Video link here.

But someone on this forum says the Mosfets are rated 72v. So if i change only the capacitors, all will work...right ?

Not correct!. A fully charged pack of 6 SLA batteries will deliver 13.8 volts/cell, or 82.8 volts. That's far beyond the rating of either the Fets or the Caps.

Along those lines.... the people I have heard of running at 72V with stock equipment..... They dont charge at 72V, they use the 48V and either 2x12V or 1 24V charger. Then, before they actually hook up and run the bike they remove the initial (13.5-13.8 charge) to bring the pack back down closer to the 72V.

Hey guys,
I wanted to clear the mud a little bit. You can NOT run 72v with the stock capacitors! At all! The mosfets I'm not sure on. One poster on this forum ran 72v with the stock mosfets, but I'm unsure of the outcome in the long run. The caps are rated 63v whereas the mosfets are rated for 75v, guess which will blow first. :D I'm fairly confident that 72v is the limit with a stock controller, probably the motor, and definitely the crappy wiring. Don't try to cut corners. Do the shunt mod, try 60 or 72v only if you change caps AND mosfets!!!!!!!! Most of all, be ready for setbacks. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Right?
Best of Luck,
Warren

Zerogas is correct here.
Actually, there are regulators inside the controller that are rated at 75V, and they are surface-soldered in place, so you will have a tough job replacing them. Even if you only use 6 batteries, you can charge the pack up to 82 volts and it will stay above 75 volts for a mile or so, depending on how hard you drive.

I have, however, fed 90V to my controller with no ill effects, but to do so, you must change the wiring on the bike. There is an orange wire coming out of your controller that goes to a 2-pin connector which leads to the ignition switch. This wire is connected inside the controller to the big red wire that is connected to the battery through the fuse, thus furnishing the same voltage to the ignition system as is furnished to the controller. If you cut the wire furnishing power to the ignition switch and connect the ignition switch to the 48V tap on your battery pack, you will then furnish only 48V to your DC-DC converter, and also only 48V to the control circuits (blue wire) of your controller. The blue wire that goes into your controller furnishes power to all your regulator circuits, so limiting this to 48V will insure that you don't blow those circuits by furnishing too much voltage.
Below is a modified portion of the XB-600 wiring diagram with the modification in red.

My controller has 100V mosfets, and 100V capacitors, and I have put well over 100 miles on the bike using six 12V batteries, and one 6V battery, for a total of 90V when all batteries are fully charged. (13.8V each 12V battery, and 6.4V on the 6V battery)
Good luck
Oh, by the way, I removed the lockable trunk from my luggage rack, and installed a box which carries my extra batteries and my chargers. I built my box from 1/4 inch plywood to fit my needs.

Thanks all for all those really good tips and answers. I have a other question that I've posted on my Plug only the motor, batteries, speed adjust holder page.

Is the E-brake slow tne motor ? or is just a system to avoid trottle input when you brake ?

Thanks again

Thanks all for all those really good tips and answers. I have a other question that I've posted on my Plug only the motor, batteries, speed adjust holder page.

Is the E-brake slow tne motor ? or is just a system to avoid trottle input when you brake ?

Thanks again

Unless I am completely mistaken, it is to help slow the bike down. It does also prevent running the throttle with a brake stuck which could have bad results.

There are a few threads over at endlesssphere on overvolt controller mods....the voltgage reg resister and LVC resister are part of the cap and fet mods.

I don't have an Xb-600 to look at, could you possibly send me or post some pictures of the top flow solder points you're talking about and any wiring info you have or links to. I may try and see what solutions or theories I can devise to offer up for testing.

as soon as I finish fixing my car I think I'm going to sell it and trade up to an Xb-600. *feels the sudden urge to warn artic fox that I know the pit falls of this unit and am not worried*

rather than hack the existing controller, is it possible to just buy a new 72V controller (say with 1000W and 40amp capacity)?

rather than hack the existing controller, is it possible to just buy a new 72V controller (say with 1000W and 40amp capacity)?

The problem with doing that is that the XB-600 hub motor has ridiculously tiny wires. If you push more than 1000 watts through them they will start to melt. The stock controller limits current output for a reason.
If you're going to replace the controller, then it would also be advisable to replace the rear motor at the same time.

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/successmotor/product-detailGqBQsbVxJfcA/China-Electric-Bicycle-Motor.html
think thats the motor... or could find one with same color at the site.... rated from 250 watt to 1000 watt and handles 24 to 72 volts.... guess could redo the insides of the motor and change out stuff and have one more powerfull, rewind it.... change mosfets etc....
I took mine apart had to use my feet to push it out of the magnets while holding the sides of it... thought i had a loose magnet but turned out it was the controller that caused the whump whump sound.. after turning the wheel with the electricity attached and not attached.. found out the whump whump didnt occur anymore with the electricity not connected... so it was the controller...

How many amps are produced with the stock motor at 60v or 72v with a shunt mod controller. I have read that the tiny wires going to the motor won't handle the amps if you use an aftermarket 72v 45amp max controller that is rated at 1500w.

Also, How is the wattage of the controller determined and what part does the stock motor play in determining the amperage at say 72v.

I have heard rumors that some here have run at 72V with all stock in the controller. But actually, it is usually the mosfets that fail first, the capacitors normally handle the extra voltage better.

Not true at all. I blew the caps first at 72v(at first I only changed 2, the 2 63v caps blew), and fried a mosfet second. Buy some dielectric grease for the back of the mosfets before you screw them down too!

Actually there WAS a post on this site somewhere of a person that was running 72V with all stock equipment. He never posted again after about 2-3 days of making the move though... so no idea what ever happened. I agree, there is next to no chance to have it work correctly for any length of time.

Guess you never bothered to get a new controller/motor for your bike huh??

I will be posting a new topic on all my mods on my bike soon. I lost the cord to connect my camera to my computer and as it is an older camera, it will not recognize an SD card over 1gb and i lost my 512mb stick so I cant get to my pics as of now. I modified the battery area to make fitting 6 batteries feasable and 5 rather easy, rear axle spinout protection etc. and I am waiting on my Anderson Powerpoles to come in to wire for series//parallel.....

Hello,

Scooterfan here. Can anyone that has the X-treme XB-600 tell me where I can get replacement headlight and taillight bulbs, what the stock # is, and the voltage and watts? Also need the turn signal bulbs replaced. The design is so dang old, that no-one has them anymore.

Thanks for your help.

Ken Underhill
507-261-7339

Sorry to be off thread. You Have internet access, so I am sue you will have no problem finding these "dang old " bulbs. or you could order from Extreme. Headlight 18w 12v. Tail light 1857 but would not swear to it, too long since I replaced either one. Turn signal is I believe 8 watts.
You have posted in the wrong and very long link. you might get a better response buy posting a new thread. If you look I am sure you will find a thread of lighting for the 600. good luck.
Depending on the age of your headlight and lens, I think Extreme offers a new assembly for $36. The Sun here in NM. yellows the lens and The next time I need a new headlight bulb I am getting a new assy.

Hello Zerogas,

We just bought a e-bike for our office here at UC Santa Cruz, and everything is great but the bike seems to not work as efficiently uphill. I was reading thru various post and I have an idea of what I can do to the bike to upgrade it. I just wanted to run it by you if it was okay to see if i am on the right path since you seem quite e-bike mod savy.

1.Get New battery (72volt or higher)
2.Shunt the controller box
3.Replace the restance for the lights and gauges.

But thats all I could figure out.

Thanks,

rudyebike [at] gmail.com

wow kool love this stuff. 72v/1500watt controller, can i just use this on my ecostar 500 watt hub motor 48 volt lead acid most likely i will up grade to Lithium Ion Battery

I have a question about my xb-500's controller. I looked at both boxes and there is nothing written on them. I want to know what the max voltage the stock controller can do. I like to do that easy 60v modification upgrade to it.

I have a question about my xb-500's controller. I looked at both boxes and there is nothing written on them. I want to know what the max voltage the stock controller can do. I like to do that easy 60v modification upgrade to it.

To the best of my knowledge both the xb500 and xb600 can be upgraded to 60V with the mod with little to no danger of damaging the bike. It is a rather simple and easy upgrade and if wired correctly I have never heard of anyone on here having problems after doing it.

Cool, Thanks

I was reading about this on another thread about a different 60v mod. So today I ordered from tnc scooters 4 new batteries and a 60v charger. Let me know if this sounds right, I take the 4 new batteries and wire them in parallel but what I can't remember is do I take them and wire the new 4 pack in series with the current batteries or do I wire the new 4 pack in parallel with the current batteries?

I have a question about my xb-500's controller. I looked at both boxes and there is nothing written on them. I want to know what the max voltage the stock controller can do. I like to do that easy 60v modification upgrade to it.

The capacitors inside the XB-500 Controller are rated at 65 volts. If you run this controller with 5 batteries instead of 4, you will be subjecting your controller to about 69 volts when the cells are fully charged. This is above the rating of the capacitors, but you may be lucky enough to have capacitors that will take more than the rated voltage. I believe the original MosFets in the controller are rated at 70 volts, so no problem there.
Take a look at my web page:
http://www.bergerweb.net
There are some tips there for modifying the XB-500

hey whats up,i have been following your forum for a while now,i just replaced the 12 mosfets with the 100v ones and changed all 6 capacitors with the 100v, just hooked it up and when i turn the trottle,nothing happens,i was thinking maybe i shouldnt have changed all 6 capacitors but i really dont know. PLEASE HELP!!

Is there a way to lock this bike? Also, where do you all park it, at the bike rack or a parking stall? Have you ever tried using the pedals? I wonder how well they really work.

I lost the cord to connect my camera to my computer and as it is an older camera, it will not recognize an SD card over 1gb and i lost my 512mb stick so I cant get to my pics as of now.how do i get found at the top of google I modified the battery area to make fitting 6 batteries feasable and 5 rather easy, rear axle spinout protection etc.