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Cool, thanks for the input guys. I figured they were too small, but might work.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
The original setup in the controller was (4) 63v 470uF caps, so I ordered some 100v 470uF caps from www.digikey.com . Hopefully I'll be back in action by the end of the week. :) This is only a minor setback.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
wow, nice to see your not letting this set back scare you down to 60v... I think once you get all of this figured out it would be awesome if you created a to-do list for upgrading to 72v (like shunt mod, mosfet upgrade, capacitor upgrade) maybe even throw in some links to digikey's product pages. such a list would be greatly appreciated!
It's all on here. Between the 60v mod instructions and this thread it's all covered. :)
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Mosfets : http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=IRFB4110PBF-ND
Capacitors : http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=P5850-ND
There you go :D
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
zerogas-
Keep up the good work! My re-ordered XB-600 should be here soon and I plan to do both the shunt mod and 72v mod.
Have you seen the topic at the sphere about the e-crazy controller with the kollmorgen? The poster added a crystal resonator to the e-crazy controller and it cured his shudder he had with the kollmorgen motor. Not sure if this is the same effect you experienced or not with the e-crazy controller with the XB-600 motor?
---------------------------------
WARNING to Craftkiller and anyone that read his post above about www.hxcmotors.com
I ordered an XB-600 from them on July 6th. I still have not received anything. Left numerous messages and emails. No replies at all. I filed claim with PayPal and so far, PayPal has been unable to contact anyone either. PayPal said that since it wasn't through eBay, they would only make a "best effort" to recover funds. The only contact info they would give was the same useless email and a disconnected phone number.
I hope you have better luck than I did.
(Sorry for going OT, but felt a warning was needed here because of the link above with the great price for the XB-600)
This link is to a dc-dc convertor that would work voltagewise, but not ampwise. It's only .4 amp output. I don't think it would power the lights.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
how about this one?
converter
It has 6.25amp max output. Its probably a lot more expensive but would give you some peace of mind. I got to believe that would power the lights and a littel more.
Rob
well ive decided that amped up is probably right cause I cant get through to them with their phone number so I am going to dispute the charges and purchase from arctic fox
My new capacitors just came in from www.digikey.com. These guys ship so fast! Hopefully I'll be back on the road in a couple of hours.
YAY!!
Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
I'm baaaaccccckkk! It WAS the capacitors. I put the new ones in and took right off! You gotta love the ease of electric rides.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
CONGRATS zerogas! I am in awe that you (and others) have the knowledge and skill to do this. Keep us posted on how it goes with the larger capacitors.
Enjoy!
I just got done taking my wife for a ride(which scared her ;) ) and then taking my daughter for a ride (which she loved) LOL! I'm not easy on my scooter by any means. I use it like it's a 250cc gas scooter, LMAO. When I got back to the house I felt of the motor and it was barely warm to the touch. I tell you these motors are TOUGH! This scooter is soooo much fun now, especially compared to the stock 20mph. Now I just have to work on getting a 100 mile range. :D
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Zerogas,
What is the maximum range you got so far with your current settings?
Hey Zero,
She must really love you to drive around on your crazy rocket sled. ;) My wife won't come near it. She is still convinced we are all going to blow up...
Glad you were able to get it going again with just a few bucks of capacitors. I got to say, the controller is probably as tough as the motor. I am so surprised you didn't fry the whole thing.
If only there was more space for another battery in the main battery box, I just can't give up that storage under the seat. My helmet goes in the cargo box when I'm not driving or at work and that takes up all the space. I couldn't leave anything else with the bike.
I will have to live vicariously through your exploits at 72volts I think. Unless I can figure a way around this problem.....hmmmmm.
Congrats again Warren for pushing the XB-600 to another level.
Thanks, Rob.
I'll probably get 10-15 miles of range with this setup. I rode to work when the capacitors blew then rode for awhile today, so I'm guessing I rode about 12 miles on my last charge. The motor and controller I ordered for the rad2go sunbird came in today, so tomorrow I'll start on it. It should be interesting, I saw another site where someone used 2 450watt motors with the controller I ordered and made a trike that went over 40mph. The motor I ordered is 750watts so we'll see how it plays out. Should be interesting.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
May I ask if that 10-15 mile range is because you are going 35mph... i guess a better question is if you kept at 20mph would you still have the 20-25 mile range (or better since you have more batteries)?
I'm not sure. I'll have to do some more road testing tomorrow. I'm charging up now.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Zerogas, I did the shunt mod a few days ago to my xb600, got better on hills. I then did the 60v mod with a SLA 8amp battery in the series. I was getting 23mph now I'm pushing 31mph (I only weigh like 130lbs). Anyway, what amp rating battery do you use? I have two more 7amp 12v batt's on the way. I was thinking I could wire the two 7 amps in parralel and then into the series. That way they act like one 14amp batt. I'm worried the extra batt isn't strong enough for a long haul, and I know it's the weakest link.
This scoot uses 20amp batteries, and I can't seem to fit one of them under the seat... Well, I haven't got one to try, and hate to spend alot to find out.
Let me know what your setup is and what you get for range when you can.
Big difference getting that speedo in the red, but cars in my neighborhood can't seem to help but pass me at like 35mph in a 25! Rude drivers in AZ! LOL!
Also have to adjust the rear tire, as the tire doesn't appear to be seated right. The centerline on the rear tire is a little off center at one point. I will deflate it and re-seat it I think, just like a bicycle with new tubes...
Fresh battery is great, I hit like 31mph for 10minutes, then my top speed drops off to like 28-29mph when I run it a mile or so.
Motor gets warm, but it's like 100 degrees at night here.
I would remove the pedals, but it's legally only an E-bike with pedals that are functional, and I don't want to argue with cops and get tased like 15 times, so legally I would advise everyone to keep functional pedals on the bike. I prefer a trial BEFORE the electricution LOL!
Dan,
Congrats on your mods! Yes, you can put 2 batteries parallel and then into the series for more amp hours. That is what I did with my scooter at 60v. I found 12v 12 ah batteries cheap so I wired them parallel to make a 12v 24ah. Of course one of those batteries is now completing the 72v mod, so I need to get 2 more 20 ah batteries. :) Have fun dude.
-Warren
BTW, Post when you put up some youtube videos. We like to see how the mods were done and the results. Plus the sound of wind blowing into a mic never gets old! LOL
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Range isn't a huge concern for me right now. I'm trying to see what the full capability of these scooters turns out to be. Range can always be improved with LiFePo4 batteries or higher ah SLAs. My main goal is get the maximum power output from these tiny hub motors. :) Anyone that's good at figuring these things out: What wattage am I running now if I'm using a 600 watt rated motor to go 35MPH at 72v? Is it still 600 watts? I know there's an equation for figuring this out.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Warren, with the shunt mod, you are probably easily pulling 20 amps when you accelerate from a standing start. Your fully charged voltage is is probably about 84 volts. So the maximum current consumed on a fully charged battery is probably close to 20 amps x 84 volts = 1,680 watts. That probably drops quickly to about 1,500 watts once the initial charge burns off. Your maximum speed should be about 33.6 mph, and you are probably pulling about 1,000 - 1,200 watts at the maximum speed on the flats with no wind.
As for range, BocaBike's Law says that, "adding more batteries in series will make your bike faster, but your range will remain about the same." This has been proved time and time again over the last 10 years, so I would not expect a big change in range going from 4 batteries to 5 or 6 batteries. I would expect a big change in range from the shunt mod (to less range), especially if you live in an area with lots of hills and/or stop lights.
- Rob from BocaBike
Yep, lots of hills and stops. I expect my range to be reduced mainly because of the 5th and 6th batteries. They are only 12 ah and will bring the pack down after awhile. I only need 12-13 miles of range out of it, so I'm not really worried. I think it will make that easy. At 60v I was sitting at 66-67v charged. When I got to work 64.6v remained. When I got home I was still at 62.4v, so I hope the same will hold true at 72v.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Bocabike's Law assumes you are adding additional batteries of the same brand and capacity. For sure, if you add batteries with less capacity, your range will be reduced. I'd check the voltage on the 12v batteries to see what range is left rather than the total pack voltage.
Well,
I'm getting ready to open the controller, AGAIN! :( The bike quit today while riding. I got it home and found a blown fuse, like Rob's, so I changed the fuse and fuse holder. Now every time I hook the battery pack back up(48v only) the speedometer pegs out and if I turn the key on the fuse blows. Any ideas?
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
so just to confirm, this is without touching the throttle, correct?
I read on this forum that a lot of people put a button on their scooters that breaks the circuit to the battery because apparently the scooters can get stuck in an "always on" state and they need that hard stop to stop the bike. If you're not touching the throttle then maybe thats what happened?
ofc I am just guessing cause I havnt even touched one of these yet
Found the culprit. It blew a mosfet. GRRRR. Apparently I didn't get enough dielectric grease on it. Check this out.... CARNAGE!!! LOL
Here's one of the case, WOW!
Time to visit www.digikey.com again. :(
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
Man you are putting that controller through it! It's gonna demand medical coverage soon. ;)
I hope you have an extra one for the day it decides to leave home.
By the way, my keyswitch gave out on me tonight. The only time I can get power is when the front forks are locked either left or right. When you turn on the key no more power. :(
Opened a ticket at Extreme and see if they give me a new one but I don't know if I want to wait until they get to my ticket and just might order one to get back on the road or I might hotwire the scooter so I can ride. I'll figure it out in the morning. Oh and I got one of those lcd voltmeters on ebay meters and will be installing it this weekend. I'll post some pics. I know someone posted that it might be hard to see but I think strategically placed on the bike it might be fine.
Rob
That sucks about your keyswitch. Gus had that problem too. I've still got a few bugs in the controller, but I'll get em worked out. It's just too much fun at 35mph to go back now. In other news, I got the sprocket installed on the rad2go sunbird and got most of the motor mount done before my drill bit broke. That's all for tomorrow or Sunday. If it turns out like I hope, it should be a little rocket!
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Well, I just got done doing a ride around the block, tire blew. Turns out that bulge in the rear tire was either improper factory fitment, or shipping damage, so I opened a ticket with extreme. Plus my pedals are stuck (don't spin on the crank) probably bad bearings or not enough grease, so I asked for a set too... They say they don't cover tire/tube damage unless it's shipping related, how about factory install related? either way I can't afford to spend any more money on this toy...
The pedals bang my shins too when I need to back up and maneuver the thing, got a nice gash to show for it. So I threw them in the under-seat compartment like everyone else.........
Too bad it's friday night and x-treme is only m-f like 9-5 or something, central time.
Sure hope they send me the tube,tire,pedals. Oh well. Next one will be an electric car, this is just for fun.
What do the mosfets do anyway? Why do they need non-conducting dielectric grease all over them? I saw that in the controller and left the grease alone (thank God)
I don't have a PhD in electric engineering so bear with me. I think my car stereo amplifier has mosfets in it too.
I think this is just a little too twitchy to try taking a video while driving with one hand, maybe when I get a new tube/tire without a bulge in it she will ride better~`@#!!!!
Win some, lose some. If they don't come through I'll tell em' my kids are getting a PS3 for Christmas instead of their shoddily thrown together scooters! They really should slap these together better, especially the tire/tube/rim, probably doesn't even have it's own QC. LOL
Hyperbob, sounds like you got a keyswitch cable stuck in between the steering/frame or something. If it turns on only in certain positions then there's a wire getting cut/pulled somewhere in the steering mechanism. Remove your front panels and look for wire damage, then replace and zip-tie the wire that's loose....
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