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It's about to rain so I won't be making any progress on the sunbird today. Also, I'm waiting for mosfets from digikey, so I have some down time today lol. I should really keep extras of all this stuff. Rob, I think Dan may have a point with your keyswitch. It seems it wouldn't work at all if it was gone. Worth a look.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
There's a new electric scooter rider at the zerogas house! It's my daughter's 9th birthday, so she got a pink razor pocket mod bistro from Wal-Mart. This thing actually goes pretty good! LOL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhrBhD0GdyE
She's having a blast and staying "green" .
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hopefully you wont find her doing mods on the scooter in the garage. ;)
It looks like it was a succesful birthday. Congrats to all.
I can picture it now...zerogas working on his scooter with his daughter next to him working on hers! LOL! She looks like she's having a blast! I love the pink color, wish my XB-600 was pink!
Laurie(rocs)
LOL! Yeah, she rode it ALL day. We had to charge it twice. She loves riding it, but I too am afraid that soon she'll want more speed *coughs*. I don't know where she would get that idea though. :)
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
haha good, atleast SHE wears a helmet in her vids...
once she starts modding shes gonna need a clever name for the forum...
suggestions:
PureVoltage
BurnedOutFuse
MiniGas
or just the plain old, zerogas2
LessThanZero ?
Little Zerogas :) And soon she'll be saying "Daddy, daddy, I need more speed!!!" And then "More speed!" And yet again "More speed!". LOL!
On The Road Again..... LOL. I replaced my blown mosfet today. It seems it blew because I had one leg of the mosfet seated in too far and it was causing that corner of the mosfet to lift up slightly, so the grease wasn't taking the heat away. After I replaced it I rode the bike for 30 minutes without stopping(this is my commute to and from work approximately), and everything went well. The motor did get hot, but not so hot that I couldn't hold my hand on it. I'd say around 105 F. I WAS giving the bike hell, though. Next is the relay to protect the dc converter. Hey Bocabikeguy, check your inbox, I have a question on the relay schematics.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Nevermind Boca,
I just found your post on my 60v mods thread. I ran the wire to the negative on the 4th battery, now all is working just fine. Now for some more vigorous road testing. Hoo! Rah!
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Homemade, Free controller cooler.....
LOL!!! Hey, it works. The controller stays cooler now. The motor still gets pretty hot though.
Another pic from Casa de zerogas....
Have fun all.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Well, I've now logged well over an hour on the xb 600 at 72v since changing the blown mosfet and all seems to be doing well. I have the relay installed to protect my dc-dc convertor and hopefully tomorrow I will install the voltage panel meter I ordered so I can watch the voltage of the pack. The amp meter still hasn't come in, so that will be later. Anyone attempting the 72v mod be warned: the motor DOES get hot. It's not so hot that you can't hold your hand on it, but it's alot hotter than it ever got at 60v. If I burn this one up, 60v and a new motor will be in order. I'll keep you all posted.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
hmm perhaps you could strap some dry ice to the motor? haha prolly not worth it, anyway I was going back to the shopping list you provided higher up in this thread and I was wondering how many capacitors I would need... I can see that I need 12 mosfets (and a few more incase they get ruined) but I can't really tell how many capacitors I need from your pictures
You will need 4 100v 470uf capacitors. Just replace the stock 63v 470uf caps with the 100v ones. Also, don't forget to put dielectric grease on the mosfets where they meet the orange heat tape on the bottoms of the case or they will overheat and blow out.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
ah thank you, much appreciated!
Hey all,
I just wanted to drop a line and let everyone know how it's going at 72v. After the blown capacitors and blown mosfet, I rode the bike close to home for a few days (over an hour worth of riding) before taking it to work. Today, I rode to work for the first time at 72v. I didn't have ANY problems from the bike. The only problem I'm having is from installing the relay for the lights. When I turn the headlights on they only shine for a second or two then they dim and flicker really low. I can barely even see the flicker. The turn signals and horn work fine and the brake lights work, I just can't get any headlights. If anyone knows how I should have the relay hooked up, post please. I followed bocabikeguy's diagram, but something isn't right.
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Here is the diagram for the relay, maybe it will help...
I ordered the same relay from mouser that boca suggested. Please help guys.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
zerogas-
Please keep us informed how it's doing at 72v. My parts should be here by Friday and I hopefully will have time to do the upgrade this weekend.
As for the relay problem, I plan to separate the 12v circuit from the 72v circuit and run one more small 12v battery just for the lights, horn, signal. This one battery will be totally separate and will have to be charged by itself. I don't like the idea of the inefficient converter and/or the lights affecting the range. Plus, in my state only the headlight is required and only then after dark.
I also plan to change all the bulbs to LEDs to keep from having to charge the small 12v battery as often. Hopefully this battery will only need charging after long night rides.
I thought about adding this 12v 7ah battery for that because it is so small, but I don't want to add more weight to the bike. Also, I plan to add a voltage and amp gauge, which have to run off 12v supply power, so I want to keep a steady 12v flowing. I just need to make it work. :(
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Since you are up to more gadgets then may search for more appropriate step down converter or do same trick you did with the controller .The dc-dc may be screaming at 72v.Stick some variable Inductors in exchange until balanced.
Warren, First check the volts going into and out of the DC-DC converter with the lights on and the lights off. Should be 48-51 volts coming in and 12-13.5 volts going out. I suspect it isn't. Then check the voltage on the pins of the relay, and check to see if the relay is getting hot. Is it possible that the relay is not wired in as in the diagram? How many volts across the relay coil are you getting? Relays are simple mechanical switches, and if the relay is switching in the 48v from the batteries, there should be no reason the lights should dim.
Bocabikeguy,
I wired it just like your diagram, the red from the switch goes in the bottom left and the black on the bottom right. The red from the dc converter is above the black, and the wire from the pack above that. I will check voltages though. Thanks
-Warren
P.S. Day 2 going to work and back at 72v and still fine. I'm charging at work until I get some higher amp hour batteries to replace the 12ah 5th and 6th batteries.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Ok, I checked voltage. I'm getting 22v from the pack for some reason and the wire going out to the dc converter reads -21v. What did I do wrong?
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
So, is the negative of the 5th battery the 48v tap or the negative of the 6th battery the 48v tap? What I mean is the negative of the 6th battery goes back to the pack. I'm confused. The negative post of the 4th battery should be 48v right? That is where I had the wire going to the relay coming from(the negative of the 4th battery in the original pack).
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
I got it. I just connected the lead to the positive of the 1st battery in the pack and all is fine. Apparently I was only drawing power from the last 2 batteries before. Sorry, for my noobiness. :D
-Warren
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Hey Warren,
I'm considering joining you at 72V (kind of waiting for warranty parts to arrive and my 30 day warranty to expire before I do any work on the bike). As part of my preparations, I was wondering if you or anyone else has ever come across a spec. sheet for the 600W hub motor? Specifically, I was looking for voltage to amperage graphs and torque to amp graphs. I'm sure it's a long shot to ask for this, but figured I'd ask anyway. Think x-treme would furnish one if I asked?
I don't know. I doubt they even know the specs of the motor, LOL! Just rest assured it moves pretty darn good at 72v. Better than any 50cc scooter around here. I'm sure I'd waste them on the hills too. ;)
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Got my tube replaced, new rear tire on order as extreme doesn't like to cover tire/tube under warranty, even though the tire has weird deformation in it since day 1.
The centerline on the tire is fine before inflation, then when you blow it up to recommended pressures the centerline bulges off to the left in one spot, about 1/4". This does affect the ride, at 30mph it's vibrating the rear of the bike, and my butt.
I will see if the new tire makes any difference, and I'm not looking forward to removing the rear tire again, what a job that was! You have to be very carefull with the hub wires for the motor ;)
Running at 60v with 98 amps of capacity, I used two 9amp SLA batteries wired in parallel for my 5th 18amp battery. Also have the paper-clip shunt mod in place, no pictures, sorry, I don't want to pull that controller apart again.
I considered going to 72v but need this bike to be reliable, not burnt out, and i don't want to rewire or replace the dc/dc convertor yet. On this note, I drilled some holes to help cool the controller, which is working fine.
How could I wire in a capacitor, i have an audio system cap, 1 farad 12-24v. I assume I would need 5 of them in series right? That makes it a bit too bulky then doesn't it. I just thought I've seen alot of ev's with supercaps in them and they all do burn-outs, so why not a scooter? That would be sweet!
LMAO! I wanna do burnouts! I'm on my way to get 2 18ah batteries now, so maybe I can go to work and back without charging again. By the way, it's day 3 and no problems at all.
Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.
Zerogas,
Why not order two 20A batteries from Xtreme? Are the 18A bats cheaper somewhere?
Tom
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