Vectrix Fuses

They replaced mine with a Cooper Bussmann FWX-200A high-speed fuse, which is rated at 200 amps. You can order them from Grainger Industrial Supply (part #4XF01) for $61.45 USD.

I'm back on the road!! Thanks David, Mik, X-Vectrix, et al; literally could NOT HAVE ACCOMPLISHED WITHOUT THIS FORUM! Finished replacing original 125 Amp Littlefuse with Bussmann 200 Amp per this thread today. Price is still $61.45 at WW Grainger in US. (December '09) Very lucky, my local store had ONE left in stock yesterday. Mik, your battery and Controller pictures were invaluable. Big thank you! My lovely and understanding wife, Deborah (who lets me park and charge in the cool living room during our ridiculously hot Summers) helped me pull and then replace the rear battery assembly. Definitely a TWO-PERSON job. Again Mik, your pictures showing the 47kg (103 pound) weight of the rear pack allowed me to know ahead of time NOT to attempt myself. Could have been a disaster otherwise.

Yes - one MUST remove the rear pack to get proper access to the Controller for removal/replacement of the main fuse. (Yes Mik - a quick ohm meter check confirmed original 125A was blown) BTW - I discovered by noticing the indent/bend of the perforated Controller Cover that Vectrix assembler had dropped the spacer on one of the three screws...found at the bottom of Controller cover. (Re-assembled properly)

I used an 11-Watt (US) globe 120 VAC for ICL, and it worked perfectly. Wearing decent rubber gloves, I was able to do at NEG terminal with Anderson already connected. 11-Watt lit up, cycled key to on - then off, 11-Watt went gradually dark. I was able to get an alligator clip (for ICL globe) to stay on the NEG female thread on final battery connection as I held the (NEG) spade lug on top and slid over center while simultaneously removing "gator" clip from ICL. No sparks. Tightened lug while wearing gloves - done!

When I turned the key ON the 17-segment battery indicator on dash was clear (zero). So I just took for local ride until RED battery light came on several times, and I could only ride up to about 40kmh (25mph). Got back home to garage, plugged in. Charger mode showing 124 VDC. Now (about 40 min into charge) seeing three bars and 139V at 23˚C on display.

Will keep you posted.

If I can have the latitude for a bit of commentary: seeing the main parts and batteries while replacing the main fuse, as long as us owners can get parts, especially the Charge and Motor Controller boards, should they fail, I can foresee NO PROBLEM to stay on the road. Ha...could easily put in application for Vectrix repair tech. with my experience this week :-)

Glen O'
Arizona, USA

found a relatively cheap price for the Bussman Fuse:

http://www.rell.com/Pages/Product-Details.aspx?productId=272992

I didn't order it yet, although I didn't get any message from my dealer about availability of the fuse yet. (hope it won't take weeks)

If my bike was no longer under warranty, it would already be fixed, I 'd bet :-)

For now, I got back on a Yamaha 125CC ICE bike, and I can tell you it really, really, REALLY sux!
It rattles, smells, is noisy and expensive to operate :-(

I had almost forgotten all that.. GOD I miss my V!

Hey Turok,

Thanks for posting source for main fuse. About half the price I paid in 2009 thru WW Grainger. I trust I won't need in the future with the Bussman 200Amp.

However, I was looking at your post, then trying to find thread about you not having your "V" on the road. Was this due to blowing main fuse? Also, do you have a warranty where you live? I don't think we have anything here in the States yet. Seems fuzzy about Vectrix USA pulling out of bankruptcy re-organization. Sorry to put on this on wrong topic area.

Glen
Arizona, US

Hey Glen,

You can read about it in this thread:

http://visforvoltage.org/forum/7630-differences-between-2007-and-2008

I thought I had a 200A fuse, but I'd still be riding then, wouldn't I? :-)

Why not install** a 150 amp circuit breaker in series with the 200 amp fuse, somewhere easy to access, so you can flip it back on if /when it trips. That would give you a two tier protection and save you from replacing the more expensive and hard to access fuse. Normally unless there was some catastrophic short the fuse would never be blown since CB would trip first, and since the CB is not damaged when tripping it elminates costly replacements. Just match the voltage and the 175 amps at the parts store to get the CB you need.

**(if possible logistically , I know little about the physical configuration of the vectra, so I am just speaking from an electrical only view; also other user states 150 fuse has not blown since replaced some time ago, the amperage is probably ok)

Regarding using the circuit breaker... wouldn't you still need to do the ICL thingy? Apparently you should not just reconnect the power without charging the caps to avoid a sudden power draw. Or is that a different part of the system that's not effected?

I have a question about the FWX-200A fuse. I see that there are two different packages, both marked as the same part number -- the one that looks wrong to me is of course less expensive, and therefore attracts people like me... who also have a habit ending up with the wrong part.

Here's the one that looks correct.

Here's one for sale on eBay and other places with the same part number and description (and a lot less money). But it doesn't "look right"!. Various listing show it as FWX-200A, although the stamped label doesn't FWX-200 (no A). Been to the Cooper Bussmann site, can't find a spec that calls this one out.
Is it OK to use it? Will it even fit and not short out something?

I can't seem to determine if they are the same or not and just some kind of different packaging or revision.

What am I missing?
--Scotter

Here a picture of the retooled 2016 MC sold by vectrix, coming with replaceable fuses.